taikowaza

Its time to repack the front wheel bearings, could someone tell me which parts I need from the following diagram? Thanks! I have no idea which to buy. PS. estimated 3.5hours at the dealership for this job, bigger job than I thought.

IMPT: PS. I am using Warn manual locking hubs (premium). don't know if this changes everything or not

here's the pic, if you have photoshop you can just put a big circle around the ones needed if you have the time. thanks a lot

if you weren't going to do this job yourself, and not going to take it to the dealership, is there a shop you'd trust with something like this? I'm pretty burnt on firestone, don't really trust too many shops these days to be honest, but would like to.

Jay351

I would only take it to a backyard mech. I trust mine.

But You don't need any parts persay to repack the bearings. BUT mine were pretty bad, so I ended up replacing the bearings and races on the drivers side.

make sure you have the right size socket. 54mm I think It is. Its a total pain without it!

80W90

get the rear seal. there is one on each side.
if you dont know how to pack bearings, its not somthing you want to guess on.
you can mess everything up real quick, with the hubs and the caliper line.

maybe you can find a mechanic on craigslist, that would be willing to do it, while you watch and learn.

im south of you in vancouver, id teach you how to do it. im the best mechanic around.

by the way, those warn hubs are not premium. if you still have the aisins, you can give me those, in exchange for work.

toytech76

too bad you dont live in cali. I'd do it for ya. Its easy stuff

1990Runner

whats hard about repacking bearings? I just bought some new ones and ive never done it. i watched someone do it when i was like 14. sometimes you people make me nervous;]

toytech76

You just need to make sure you get the bearing preload correct and everything back where it came from. It really isnt hard

1990Runner

by preload do you mean the torque on the nut?

toytech76

basically yes. It cant be too loose or too tight. I dont have a figure for you. I just have done so many of them I have it by feel

Brenjen

Pre-load means you have to *over* torque the nut, then back it off & then torque it down to the specified amount; this seats the bearing. It's a little more indepth than that as this isn't a step by step tutorial but if you have a service manual, even a cheapie Haynes will tell you how to do it step by step & no.....it isn't hard to do but (this is an important but) you do have to do it right, do the work wrong on steering components or braking components & you can be a rolling hazard to yourself, your loved ones & the other people on or near the road.

Roger Fairclough

Its like riding a bike, easy when you know how. You need to find someone who will show you how to do it . Dont guess at preloads or torque settings . Do it right and you will be O.K. Guess at it and it will bite you in the ass. Join a local club and ask the guys who they trust. Get him to do it and whilst you watch and ask questions.

fire5

I repacked mine approx. one month ago - first time. And went smoothly...so far! The Haynes has you use a spring gauge to check pre-load. I did not, but just went with the recommended torques.
As for new parts, I ordered a gasket set for the hubs from Downey Off-road(comes with nice allen head screws for the outer hub - $20-30), and they have the 54mm socket too($15). Locally bought the rear seals.
While waiting for Downey shipment, took everything apart(lock nuts surprisingly came off with an adjustable wrench - socket is needed for the right torques), cleaned and prepped.
There are cone washers that will give a headache loosening. Use a drift to bang 'em out.

toytech76

A brass drift at that so that it wont ruin anything

1990Runner

man i live in Houston, not colorado or nor cal. there isnt any clubs that i know of around here. i have a torqe wrench but it goes from 50-250 ft-lbs. just off the top of my head, i think that the torque for those is like 13 ft-lbs. i guess ill buy another smaller wrench