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I am new to the forum. I have purchased a 1994 4Runner SR5. I have not picked up service manual yet but its the next thing i'm going to purchase. I have a problem with interior power locks(all doors) not working. The windows all work great. there are also lights on the door panel that function as well. I thought i would check the interior fuse panel next to the drivers door first. there seems to be a fuse missing. fingers crossed, this may be the problem???
Can anyone please help identify what fuse is missing and what it does?
Pull the lock cylinders and drop then in an ultrasonic cleaner. Owners often used oil on the lock, which sorta works at first, but attracts a lot of grime. Best to use nothing, or at the most. a dry lube.
A locksmith would replace the wafer and springs during the rekeying process, so your old locks, after cleaning, should be fine to rekey.
New wafers and springs make a huge difference.
I will look into the ultrasonic cleaner for the front 2 cylinders and take all 3 to the locksmith when completed.
amazon has a 2Liter Vevor brand ultrasonic cleaner for $56. do you think i should spring for a larger for maybe future use? what size do you think is useful?
should i get the ultrasonic cleaner or just some simplegreen?
I have both, a large one, and a small one intended for jewelry. I do 95% of my cleaning with the jewelry one. Hot water with some Dawn soap.
All that metal worn off your key isn't lingering in your pant's pocket, is in the locks.
Pull the lock cylinders and drop then in an ultrasonic cleaner. Owners often used oil on the lock, which sorta works at first, but attracts a lot of grime. Best to use nothing, or at the most. a dry lube.
Hello Jimkola, if you could, i'm in need of help with re-installing these lock cylinders. I removed them and it was easy enough. i soaked them in the ultrasonic for 30min at 122 degrees and they came out great! i put some dry graphite in them and worked it around a bit with the key prior to install. seem to be smooth functioning.
no i cant seem to get them back in. Is there a trick to this U shape clip???
i've been trying everything and the clip just doesnt seem to go behind the catch's on the cylinder. the cylinder seems to be pushed up tight against the plastic handle body. when i look from outside the door it looks flush. when i get the clip on the cylinder just pushes back out.
does this clip just hug the ramps with tension? not go behind them?
the cylinders push back out from the tension of the clip. is this possibly because i used the graphite? lol
i always try to do what i think is best but usually i just end up making things harder for myself. this time i figured i'd quite the struggle and just ask someone with experience.
No, the graphite wouldn’t interfere with the retainer.
post up a picture of the lock and retainer. I think it’s different than my 1987.
Try the video I linked below
Hello Jimkola! thank you for helping out! thank you for taking time to understand my problem and finding a video for reference!!
the video linked is the same setup. theres quite a bit missing however. aslo they show 2 drivers side handles.
The cylinders can only fit one way. the cylinders have a "wing" on each side that are different sizes(thickness). they fit like key ways into slots in the plastic handle housing. I am confident i am re-installing them in reverse of how i removed them, its just that i am unable to put enough pressure on the cylinder into the housing and then get the U clip on correctly i guess. I am confirming from looking at the outside of the door that i have the cylinder "seated" flushed up against the plastic handle housing. the metal key tumbler part is flush to the housing when looking from the outside. im putting a lot of force against as i put the clip back on. i did notice the outer most part of the cylinder where the key penetrates first does seem to compress in a bit when you push against it. even with hard consistent pressure i am unable to get the retaining clip on "behind" the cylinder wings to secure the cylinder in place.
another thought i had was to put the clip on first and force the wings past it since the wings are like ramps. i used a screwdriver against the actuator arm screw and pushed as hard as i could and it still would not force past it. i was really hoping for some clicks!
the video leaves a lot of questions unanswered. its very easy to remove the cylinder from the housing without removing the handle from the door. perhaps this is why it shows the handles fully removed. it must be much more difficult or near impossible to re-nstall them without the handles removed???idk
the other thing the video does not demonstrate is removing the handle out of the door. in order to do this, the outside door handle actuator rod will need to be removed from the top of the plastic handle while still in the door. this rod has a white plastic retainer clip on it which can be seen in the above video at .08 seconds. or in pic #3 it appears yellow. i thought there was a very small "C" clip on the end of the actuating rod which prevents the rod from being slid out of the metal arm that connects it to the handle. i could be mistaken. i I'll put on my glasses this time and take a long look.
I chose to not remove the handle from the door as i had decided that it would be extremely difficult to get that C clip i thought i saw back on. i would not be able to fit my hand let alone pliers or screwdriver etc. in that far upper insde the door area. i do have some 90 degree pliers so maybe its possible.
i just took some pictures to give a better idea of what i'm dealing with. its pretty crazy really that it is this difficult to replace. it came apart so easy!
i could be wrong but i feel like the handle being shown at far left of the demonstration may be broken at the top like someone tried to force the actuator rod out and it broke the metal arm/casting. refer to my pic #2 it is a hole through the casting that the plastic piece and actuator arm go through.if only it would just pop in and out! dang
at 5:38 looks like he was able to pry the rod through the plastic retainer clip. im going to look real close again to see if i really did see a small C clip on the backside. i dont want to risk breaking the casted handle arm. this video also makes no mention of issues with sliding the lock cylinder back in and securing in place with U clip.
i guess i'll be completely removing the handles tomorrow! see how she goes
confirming there is no "C" clip. just dirt/grime that made it look dark around the gap where the rod portrudes. removing the black plug on the door gives access to the left bolt that holds the handle to the door. Using a large flat head screwdriver on the outside end of the rod allows it to be popped through the casted arm pretty easily with less risk of breaking the arm or the plastic retainer clip.
working on cleaning the handles now and then i'll try installing the lock cylinders and clip again.
handles removed with lock cylinder and retaining clip shown.
with the handle removed it is very easy to seat the cylinder in firmly and get the wings past the groove evenly to replace the clip. seems i overcomplicated it by trying leave the handle in the door.
while the handle is out i cleaned the handle good and regreased the handle pull spring.
Im going to pull and clean the tailgate lock cylinder next and then call the Locksmith. Ive got the blanks so ready to go!
Nov 16, 2024 | 03:29 PM
