kwando

instead of starting a new thread, i will just bump this thread.

Does toyota sell a parts "kit"?

Or should i just buy all the parts seperate? If buying seperated, what else do i needs besides:

1. Timing belt
2. Water pump
3. Tensioner??

Thanks in advance!

infiltrator

I think he said thermostat too. I think if I did a job like this, I would feel very proud saving myself this money, and a sense of accomplishment . I will probably learn some day.

How do you guys learn how to do such things to your trucks? Is it just experience doing it since you were younger? Did someone teach you.

What would be your advice to me going into this? Is it something I could do, not knowing everything I should know about my truck?

Blurr

get a factory service manual or do a search for one in this forum (many are available via .pdf). if you can follow the directions, you can easily do a timing belt job on your 3vze. dozens of people on this forum have performed this job and posted their tricks and tips.

Anse

I’m having a challenge with the timing belt on a truck with this engine. I had to replace the knock sensor. Got it all stripped down and the new sensor is in. The timing belt, tensioners, water pump, etc. were replaced about 5K miles ago, so I’m reusing everything. I tried to shortcut the teardown of the timing belt assembly by just removing the top cover and loosening the belt tensioner. This allowed me to remove the top idler assembly so I could take the intake manifold off without removing the crank pulley and everything else on the front of the engine.

I did mark the belt and sprockets so I could reassemble, but in my haste, and like an idiot, I forgot to set the timing at TDC before loosening the tensioner. As soon as there was slack in the belt, the cam position moved on both banks. I did manage to get the belt back on in the correct position (a real bugger), but it seems that the belt is now somewhat tight on the tensioner (passenger side) and loose on the driver’s side on the span below the cam sprocket. I don't even have the spring back on the tensioner yet to adjust the belt tension, which has me concerned about whether or not I have it reassembled properly.

Is the slack in the belt on the driver’s side normal? Do you think that I have somehow gotten the belt off by a tooth? I’m afraid I’m going to have to tear down further and remove the crank pulley so I can realign everything, but I’d sure like to avoid this if at all possible.

Here's my theory on how to ensure that I get it right with the current level of teardown. If I remove the belt from the cam sprockets, align the notch on the crank pulley with the 0 timing mark, and then carefully rotate and align the camshafts by the same increments (to ensure they are on the same stroke cycle) with the timing marks at the top, verifying that the rotor in the distributor points at the no. 1 cylinder, and then reroute the belt, would I have everything in proper aligment? Am I missing something important in my theory?

scope103

Anse -

It sounds like you've got it. Because of the spring tension on the cam shaft (from the valves) it tends to not stay put at TDC. Just align the marks on the cam pulleys pointing up, align the mark on the harmonic damper to TDC, AND THEN CHECK you are at TDC, not BDC (remember that the crankshaft turns twice for each turn of the camshafts --slide a wooden chopstick in the #1 spark plug hole; if you hit the top of the piston you're good), and then put on the belt.

Not sure it's right? With the tensioner back on, carefully turn the crank two turns. Is everything still lined up? You're golden. If it's off, it will be off at least one whole tooth, and that is easy to see.

Lots of new timing belts (but not all) have marks to help line them up; these will help but you should still check. Be aware that these belts have what is called "hunting" pattern; if you turn the crank until the belt-mark comes around and lines up again, the marks on the belt WILL NOT line up with the cam pulleys. That is not a problem.

Anse

Thanks, scope103, for the feedback and help. Hope to get it back together this evening.

cnctony

I replaced my timing belt once before and I know it was off by one tooth. This caused me to have to advance the timing to make engine run correctly. I notice when I use the marks on the timing belt, the marks on the engine do not line up perfectly. I was told by a Toyota trained ASE mechanic to line up the marks on the belt to the notch on the cams and there is a small punch mark on front the main timing gear (at bottom when notch is at top) that also lines up with a line on the timing belt. This made it real easy to know I did it right.

dieselloco427

Just did the Timing belt today on my 93 Runner. I had a hard time getting the marks to line up. I got the belt set, cam pulleys and crank pulley aligned - tensioned the belt and rotated the engine. For some reason the pulleys will not line up exact. Everything is back together now and it runs a little rough (sounds like its missing occasionally). My fear is that the belt jumped a tooth and I've got to do this all over again. I think my problem is with the hydraulic tensioner, when I take my hand off the belt to put the tensioner back on it slips...

KevinInSac

haha, post #12 had a pulley on wrong. Wonder if it lasted long...

jener8tionx

My truck was at 185K exactly and started to leak coolant at the water pump. I did this repair a few years ago, but not eh timing belt. I think the pump is leaking now because I didn't use silicone on the water pump gasket then. I also couldn't figure out how to get the crank bolt off, so I gave up on the timing belt at the time.

I just did the timing belt and water pump along with idler pulleys. I got most of the parts from CNS Motors off ebay. Timing belt, both pulleys and water pump for $120 shipped. Parts look to be as good as OEM or better. The timing belt that came off was at about 100K miles MFG by Gates and was in near perfect condition. I used the starter trick to get the the crank bolt off and the 3rd gear trick to get it back on. I didn't remove the PS pump or spark plugs. I didn't replace my seals because they looked good. Everything went pretty smoothly. Even though it doesn't look like it, I cleaned the hell out of the contact surfaces. Here are some pics:

j

just put mine back on and i have one question. when i did two revolutions of the crankshaft, the cam pulleys lined up right but the belt was way off. should i care how the belt lines up or is it only the pulleys i'm worried about?

j

sorry for the stupid question. just finished the job.

Th3duke

I had the same question as post number 24. Mine was also loose on the driver's side (and was off by a tooth). Re-adjusted so the slack was on the passenger side and that fixed it. When you put on the spring on the idler pulley it tightens it right up.

BTW:As you'll see in the pics my oil pump seal (crank shaft seal - whatever you want to call it) had to be replaced. I had a hard time removing it while it was on the truck, so I had to unbolt the oil pan to remove the oil pump to change it; what a bear.

Here's a few pics...











BTW: there's two different water pumps for this 1990; so be sure that you check what version you have before picking it up. I bought mine on Saturday, and found out I needed the one with the neck (for the oil cooler).

KraZe_EyE

http://www.instructables.com/id/1994...lt-Replacment/

That's a link to a DIY writeup that I just made. It's really detailed, like I tell you the size of the bolt each time I talk about taking one off and putting it back on. I just did this over 4th of July weekend and replaced the timing belt, waterpump, no.1 & no.2 idlers. It was actually alot of fun and I learned a load about my truck. one question, anyone else who has done this, have you had any trouble with only using seal packing and NO gasket?? My new water pump didn's come with one so I only used seal packing. I've put about 10k on it so far with no ill effect.

At the end there's alot of reading material that I linked to, i'll repost it here tho.

Page from Service Manual about Changing Timing Belt
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/67timingbe.pdf

1993 Service Manual (the whole thing applies to the 94 engine)
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/index.html

Another page from the Service Manual that tells about torque specifications(1/2 way down)
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/71services.pdf

Good topic about changing Timing Belt on the 3VZE Engine
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...vations-32812/

Forum topic about changing a Timing Belt
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...fpart=all&vc=1

5VZ-FE Timing Belt Replacement
http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/index.htm

V6 3.4L Timing Belt Replacement
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/

96' V6 Timing Belt Replacement
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/96-4runner-timing-belt-replacement-145241/

Article about Proper Torque Specs on Bolts
http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/012007_04.html

mrtucker80

I am so glad I found this thread, I have an unusual question for all you TB veterans. I have been looking high and low and cant seem to find anyone who has tried what I am about to explain.

Has anyone ever swapped a early style (spring tensioner) onto a late model block. I have a 1990 2wd pickup that I have purchased a 1993 4wd block for. The 1993 motor was running when I pulled it. I intend to do the idlers, belt, water pump, etc. as well as swapping many of the 1990 components onto the late model block. Oil pan, distributor, etc. I am going to replace the TB, but in order to keep everything of a 1990 vintage, I will need to change the tensioner setup to match the early (spring type) setup.

My take on it is as long as I replace all the components with the 1990 parts, I shouldn't have any problems, I don't think. I just wanted to see if anyone has done anything similar. The blocks are the same, so as long as the parts are all for the same year, everything should bolt up and line up correctly, right?

Thanks,

Tucker

eugenedbrooksiii

The late model tensioner system requires only one additional threaded hole in the passenger side head. This is the only difference to the block/head combination, so you can downgrade the belt tensioning system on your motor if you want. I wish I could upgrade my 91 to the 93 tensioner...

Remember to check the valve clearance on the motor you are installing. The exhaust valve clearances have a habit of closing up on the 3VZE. Failure to maintain proper clearances will lead to burned valves. I skipped the clearance check on my 91 3VZE at 120K miles and burned several exhaust valves at 150K miles. My replacement valves appear to be stretching on the same schedule.

rube

so i am almost done rebuilding my v6 and the only thing i cant remember were it goes is this thing.

i can see from this pic that it goes back to somewhere but i cant tell were.

eugenedbrooksiii

The hose, to route water to the oil cooler if my memory serves me correctly, attaches to a port on the water pump housing. Do you have a plug where there should be a port? Check your old water pump.

rube

thanks, i figured it out, i dont have an oil cooler so i capped er off.

k808soljah

Ok guys, I'm in the process of replacing my water pump, thermostat, timing belt, both idler pulleys, and spark plugs.. I used the starter trick to get the crankshaft pulley off, but now it's time to tourque it back on. I've read a little about the third gear trick... but don't know how it works or how to do it. I'm sure it's really simple and I'm just not thinking. Any help? Thanks!