k808soljah

Okay, so it's just putting the truck in third on a hill and that makes the crank pulley harder to turn, correct?

k808soljah

So now I've figured it out and feel like an idiot. Worked well though

clocklaw

I have a 95 4Runner and I have a question about this picture. My 95 does not have the spring on the tensioner pulley as seen in this picture. Is it correct that they had that part on the earlier engines and dropped it in the 92 to 95 or is my engine swapped in from an earlier3vz???

Ardent

You are correct. Later models used a hydrolic tensioner.

clocklaw

Ok, thanks. We got the belt on last night and a good part of the motor back together.

bucktechservices

I just wanted to extend a thank you to all fellow 3vze owners whom contributed to this thread. I recently broke my timing belt and had to replace it. I had replaced the belt at 180K, when i did the water pump but, did not inspect the condition of the tensioner/idler. At 189K the tensioner broke and I was stalled on the side of the road. I had no idea how to re allign the pulleys, how to find TDC, or any other procedures needed to complete this DIY project. This thread, almost solely, saved me an inmeasurable amount of time and stress. I learned a great deal about my motor and am proud to be able to make it through another year of answering "yes", when all my buddies ask "Wow, are you still driving that thing?"

Jerbou71

Why are the guys in some of the post talking about taking off the cam gears you don't need to remove them to do the timing belt, right?

wmmcd

Just finished replacing fan idler bracket and timing belt on my '95 3VZE. Using Haynes and guides found on here. Checked, rechecked and checked again everything as was reassembling everything.

I now have two issues when I run the engine:
1) Engine idles very high and will not step down (approx 1500rpm idle).
2) Engine overheats after about 10 min of idle while checking everything over.

Coolant appears to be circulating when I open radiator cap and top rad hose has pressure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

wmmcd

Well, having consulted a higher authority -- Dad ...

Going to have to go pull the timing belt cover and have a look at the routing across water pump pulley -- possible to have belt on wrong side of pulley?? Thus making it run in reverse.

tried4x2signN

You do to replace the cam seals...

But you are right... Otherwise not needed...


And... Two pages and not one word about OEM parts.

(OEM parts are designed to Toyota's specifications. Other brands that make parts like belts for instance are not)


Do what you like, but this is not a fun job to keep having to do with POS parts...

But hey, a least they have warranties though, am I right?

cowb0y

I appreciate your taking the time to type out the steps. I did use these on my last timing belt/waterpump change. Again, thanks.

devldogs55

Well I think I just blew my timing chain. I started the truck up and there was a very noticeable rattling under the timing cover and then it shut off. Now it will crank but won't turn over. I had it towed and the guy took a look at it and said it had horrible compression in one or more of the cylinders - I can't remember which one. He said he thinks the timing belt is broken.

I asked him for a quote on replacing it and he said about $1200 which is highway robbery so I'm taking it somewhere else - I think this job is a little over my head. So there's a place on base here in 29 Palms that is going to take a look at it but they're saying the new belt may not help anything because the incident may have bent a rod.

I was always under the impression that the 3VZE is a non interference engine and the timing chain breaking wouldn't necessarily cause damage to the pistons. I understand that if debris blew all over the place under the timing cover something could be damaged there... but am I wrong?

gypsy

I'm a pro soobie guy who decided to do a friends '90 4-runner v6 knock sensor... ouch! What an unbelievable pita... and I itched and moaned 'bout outbacks being mounted on the rear top of the intake! If these behave like soobies, then there's no reason you can't relocate the knock essentially anywhere solid on top of the engine.
In any event, since the Fn knock required tearing the top end apart I recomended the t belt/wpump/front seal.
In typical form, I just tossed everything together in the arrogant certainty that there's no rocket science in common sense reassembly. After all, rice is rice is rice...
'cept:
Regarding the metal tab that anchors the spring across from the idler pulley/tensioner: WHERE does this pathetic piece of metal anchor exactly? It sort of wants to mount on one of the water pump upper holes, but I'm suspecting that is not the oem location where it bolts back on. Predicatably, all of the online pix are taken from above and cast a perfect shadow (from upper idler/coolant tube assembly) directly obscuring the exact mounting location of the 'spring tab'.
The options I see: it bolts atop one of the WPump mounting holes; or there's a block-threaded hole directly above the pump that is correct size but I cannot find a way to orient the spring tab that works...
A heads-up appreciated.

PS I'm on dial-up at a friends ranch so big pix are a no-no

psychotech

I want to clear up the mystery about TDC vs BDC and timing belt installation for this motor. The crankshaft and everything attached makes one complete cycle every time the crank rotates. This means that there is never a time when you timing mark is on 0 and you are NOT at TDC. The cams run at a ration of 2:1 off the drive pulley on the crankshaft. The logic of the cams is the same. They rotate once and everything occurs in each rotation. Don't think too much into this operation because it's really super simple. No matter if you marked it or not or loosened the tensioner prior to setting the crank at 0 none of it matters. You don't have to check your #1 cyl if you are on the timing mark on the crankshaft. Just make sure the belt is tight on the DRIVER side as this is where the tension that pulls down rotating the engine from that side. If you have slack on the DRIVERS side it could be a tooth or two off or just loose because the tensioner is loose and you counter rotated the engine slightly loosening the belt. In any case this belt should not be loose on either side no matter which way it's rotated. You aren't supposed to rotate the engine in reverse but since this motor is no-contact you don't have to worry about bending a valve if you get it wrong. Just put the belt on and turn the drivers side cam to the right slightly about one tooth and turn it back to take up the slack. Pull it around the other pulley and then add the tensioner. Make sure the belt is right an tight and tighten the tensioner. Rotate the engine clockwise a few times to check that the timing marks line up after a couple of rotations, loosen the tensioner and re-tighten it. It's that simple.

cavoytek

Ok bought a 94 4runner 3.0vze with the famous blown head gasket. After research here decided to replace exhaust manifold with the thorly's do the gaskets water pump timing belt and all the bells and whistles.... put belt on and am 100% posotive i have all 3 on their marks two cams in line and crank in line checked it about 15 times while scratching my head.... after putting the fan bracket on i tried to spin the motor over with a socket, made it about 2/3 the way around and whack something hit... backed it up and whack hit again. took timing belt off and reinstalled thinking maybe i was mistaken and was a tooth off or something like that but nope same result every time. no plugs in so its not compression. sounds like its making contact on the driver side head maybe around the number 6 cylinder (no exhaust at the moment). was thinking maybe the wrong timing belt autozone part number 95240 or something. i am posotive the motor is on tdc and so are the cams, no distributor in at the moment or plugs or exhaust so i cant forsee anything binding up there from the little bit of movement i can get back and forth with a ratchet the belt appears to stay in time on the cam sprockets and the crank sprocket any thoughts on the culprit. i know the truck ran prior to my muckin with it just pumped coolant out the tailpipe from the number 6 cylinder, only other weird thing that i did was the battery was stolen where i was keeping it till i had time for the repair so i had it towed and with no power had to hit the hidden button on the gear shift to get it into neutral and dont know if that somehow engaged the trans and thats whats binding or if i just forgot something along the way. any help would be awesome this is my first import other than bikes so its not my cup o tea

nathanmyers

I smashed a 2 inch pipe down flat with a hammer. drilled 2 holes in it and bolted it to the pulley. I then put another pipe on that to gain leverage. it is my inexpensive solution to the sst tool. worked great. just needed shorter bolts so you don't break them off in the pulley. If you have access to the sst tool I would use it but I didn't access at the time.

nathanmyers

I have no idea what is what is wrong with your project canoytek. Are you positive you have the timing belt on correctly? maybe one of the cam shafts is rotated a little. can you turn the cam shafts and crank shaft all the way around when the timing belt is off the pulleys? because if you can it must be a problem with how you have the timing belt on.

mrtucker80

No exhaust on at all? And is it an actual clink from making contact or are you building compression, which you shouldn't with the exhaust off. If you are hitting something I would first double check all the pulleys as you turn it over. If something fell down into one of the covers it may be hanging. Also check the cams for the same, make sure nothing is interfering. If nothing is hitting then it has to be internal. If it is internal then my first guess is a valve is opening out of time or has dropped. My only other thought would be that something accidentally fell into one of the cylinders as you were putting the head back on and is now hitting the head and causing the stop.

I wouldn't force it, it may get tight but shouldn't feel like it hit a stop, if it does something is wrong. My suggestion would be to pull all the plugs and see if you can see into the cylinders to double check for something, either that or pull the heads back off to double check it. Not sure what that does to the new HG that you installed.

Good luck,

kwando

ready for another belt on my trusted 94... where is the best place again to get a kit again??

Want to do everything (belt, water pump, pulleys, tstat, etc).

snap-on

Good to see the pics of my Timming belt/water pump are still being used