95-Superlift4runner

What are the best known performance upgrades for a 1995 4runner with a 3.0 engine (120,000 + miles) and 33" tires?

To be honest, I may have other than stock gears, but I am unsure. The previous owner installed a superlift, aftermarket wheels & tires (15" still), and ARB lockers.

I want to make the engine better and faster, because it looks 100% stock. Should I not even consider upgrading this engine because of miles?
Or just go for it?
The only performance related item on the car is a flow master muffler.

I know you guys have tried just about everything on a 2nd gen 4runner with the 3.0, so I would love to hear how its working out for you

Here are my attempts with a few pictures to give you an idea of my truck..

Sequoia'd

Don't worry about the miles... if the previous owner maintained it, it's just broken in! Check and see if the headgaskets were replaced under the service advisory, mine went right at 119,000 so you will want to get that done if not.

Upgrades:

I have added the Jacobs StreetPro ignition system and I experienced a performance boost and increased milage (if I keep my foot out of it). I also installed the K&N FIPK and got a little more out of it... Not giant improvements but since I'm gonna keep mine forever, I don't mind tweaking it for every reasonable HP gain I can get w/o replacing the engine.

'91 4Runner SR-5
3.0 V6
32" Nitto's on 16" '01 Sequoia wheels (actually 265-75-16's)

ebelen1

If you want a K&N FIPK, check out this link:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70808

Be warned, many on this board don't believe in the FIPK and a guy named Gadget dyno'd it to show it actually lost power. I don't always believe everything I see b/c there can be other contributing factors of why it showed less power. Leave it as I have one on my 3rd gen and I'm pretty happy with the increased throttle response.

95-Superlift4runner

What about headers...?
Increased throttle body size...?
Is there a supercharger system made for the 3.0 v6..? Maybe even turbo system..?
Is it just the FIPK intake system, or most intake systems in general that lack gains..?
Where would I find a Jacobs StreetPro Inginition...?

Thanks for the feedback so far, can't wait to start upgrading

Epic Ed

It looks like you already have headers and a dual exhaust, no? Looking at the pick again, I can't see what is coming off the engine, but you definitely have dual exhaust which likely indicates more mods as you move up the pipes toward the engine -- possibly a hi-flow Cat and muffler; maybe headers.

I have done quite a bit of engine modification to mine. Most of it has been with great disappointment. My cost-benefit ratio has sucked ballz. The K&N FIPK is worthless as tits on a fish. Headers give you the most performance gain, but they also cause the most residual issues (extra heat -- I've melted through three or four speedo cables; some report frying their starter or scorching the interior carpet). If you want to open up the intake, you might want to consider an ARB Snorkle kit. Cooler air flow, and you can modify the intake box to get a high volume of air.

You might want to verify what gear ratio you have. Running 33" tires on these vehicles requires re-gearing if you expect any kind of power. I have 4.88s and run on 32" tires -- the gear ratio is barely adequate to keep me happy.

The condition of the head gasket is another issue. Check the VIn # with Toyota to see if you qualify for the recall. If not (like me) you may have head gasket failure down the road, anyways. I bought a cheap engine that first time it happened and lost $1500 when it blew up (still trying to get some money from them for the warranty). Another $2000 for an entire long block, plus labor and I could have done an 3.4L engine swap instead.

I haven't done a throttle body mod, but most people indicate some marginal gains. There is a promising new mod that may help significantly, but it hasn't been made yet and the jury is still out on how effective how it's cost to benefit ratio may be:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/maf-conversion-mod-3-0-2nd-gen-68205/

Overall, I regret putting so much money into my engine mods for such little return. I really think it has caused more problems than it has solved, and the engine is still a dog, anyways.

Ed

95-Superlift4runner

Aw that is no bueno Ed. I just signed in for the MAF conversion tho. I would be in if that was ever seriously producted, but by the sounds of it...

I don't have headers on my runner Ed. Maybe a highflow cat but Im not sure just by looking at it, but I know the headers are not aftermarket.

Are there any other options besides for the Downey headers? They seem like a pain to install and have issues with y-connectors and stuff. Plus they run really hot like you said? Maybe a better fitting header I could wrap? What do you think?

Im not finding any sites with that Jacobs Ignition...

If I knew what the gears were, I would love to switch them out to a correct calibration because I want to keep the 33 sized tires.

Epic Ed

Yeah, I know it's not what you want to hear. There are some members, like Bumpin' Yota, that have been very happy with their engine mods. He has recently done some sort of intake mod that he's very happy with, but I haven't had time to check it out to tell you the specifics.

There is a recent thread about the new Thorley headers here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...horley+headers

I haven't read through the whole thread, so I don't know what the verdict is re: the product or customer service. NWOR makes headers, too, but they have earned (and I do mean earned) a reputation for being complete dickheads with their customer service.

Seriously, if I had it all to do over, I'd sink the money into an engine swap right off the bat and not jack around with modding the 3.0 slow turd.

Ed

95-Superlift4runner

What would be a good engine make and size to swap into my 95 runner?
And how would everything match up if I looked into it..
Id personally choose a small v8 if it would fit without serious customization...

mt_goat

The 3.4 is the most popular swap, here is some info: http://www.offroadsolutions.com/technicalarticles.htm

ThomasJ

If you do a v8 swap I would use a 87-93 mustang engine. The wiring is very simple and the engine is very narrow and lightweight. I have been into building mustangs since I could drive and you can get some very good HP and TQ from these engines. The aftermarket support is ENDLESS and they have proven to be reliable.

I am not taking anything away from the 3.4 because it is a very good engine. I just think if you are going to do a swap you should really make it worth your time. The 3.4 is better than the 3.0 but its still underpowered for the big 4Runner. Both of them are better suited as car engines in my book.

As far as the mods on the 3vze. The most effective one I have found are a simple timing advance and AFM tuning(basicly does the same thing as the ECT mod). I actually felt the power increase unlike every thing else ive tried. I have not done headers yet. Im still waiting to see the thorley headers. The larger throttle body is pointless unless you go to a bigger AFM or convert to MAF.

ThomasJ

If you jack up the rear and have sombody turn the wheel one revolution while you watch the drive shaft. You can figure out what gears it has. Put a mark on the drive shaft and count how many revolutions it makes for one revolution of the tire. 4-1/2 turns = 4.56, little under five turns = 4.88, little over five turns = 5.29 and so on.

95-Superlift4runner

Thanks for the fantastic info. I will jack the 4runner up soon and try my best to figure out the rotations.

When you advance the timing, and tune the AFM, should I bring it to a mechanic in Southern California (where I live), or is it pretty simple?
Im clueless about some of this stuff, but very willing to learn/try.

The mustang engine your talking about is the 5.0 correct? hehe

ThomasJ

If you live in california you may not want to mess with the AFM. It may cause you to not pass emmisions. I dont have emissions testing here so I cant say if it affects it or not. Maybe some other members from california can chime in on this subject.

You may want to look into the ECT mod. That will let you switch it off for when you have testing.

Do a search on " ECT mod "

sandcrawler

nice clean rig from the looks of it!!

Keggo

Some have swapped in Supra 7mgte motors... Mm... Turbo'd inline sixes... mm

95-Superlift4runner

How do the transmissions match? I want to do something that wont require serious modification of engine bay and drivetrain, and by the sounds of it...3.4's seem the easiest.

A 5.0 would be sweeeeet same with a turbo 6 but what about transmission and hooking it into my exisiting 4x4?

PAhydrohead

Nice clean engine! But what are the alligator clips hooked to the battery doing??!?!

I have the Northwest Offroad headers, the K&N FIPK and a Flowmaster muffler on my '92. The headers made a noticeable difference (to me) but with a 5-speed, 33s and 4.56 gears, the engine is definately still underpowered for the 4Runner. But its not a sports car and I don't expect it to perform like one. My truck will go just about anywhere I want to offroad with the 3.0 and with the intake/exhaust mods I have made, it sounds nice and throaty like a V8.

Now if I were in your situation with a pretty much stock 3.0, I would run it as is until the head gasket blew and then spend my money on an engine swap.

Good luck

CoedNaked

You don't need to jack up your 4runner and play with the wheels. Just look on the door jam. There should be a sticker there with an axle code on it. If it reads:
"A/TM G254" that means you have 4.56 gears. If it reads "A/TM G294" that means you have 4.10 gears. If it reads something else let us know and that could mean you have 4.88 gears (not sure the exact code but it'll probably be "A/TM G**4" (25 means 4.56 29 means 4.10, not sure what 4.88's are).

Since you have non stock size tires it's not possible to tell by the speedo/rpm's. On a stock 4runner or truck with 4.56 gears (with the 5 speed maual) with the 3.0 engine and 31" tires if you are at 60 MPH your RPM's should be about 2700 RPM. If you're at 70 MPH they should be about 3050 RPM (my truck). There are gear calculators as well. Another way to tell is to stick it in 4th gear (if you have a manual) or turn overdrive off and get up to highway speeds so you'll be in 3rd gear (if you have an auto) and rev it up to a few highway speeds and take note of the RPM's. Say get up to 50 MPH and take note of the RPM's and then get up to say 60 MPH and write down the RPM's. Since your tranny in 4th gear (manual) and 3rd gear (auto) is a true 1:1 ratio then (usually all gears before overdrive are 1:1) you can enter that into a calculator because that is a no brainer (as opposed to trying to find various gear ratios in a search or something which can be hard to find), entire your tire size, and entire your RPM's and your given speed at those RPM's and you can then figure out your gear's. Sounds complicated but it's really simple in all honesty. Much easier I think then jacking up the wheels and playing spin the drive shaft.

95-Superlift4runner

I dont know what the aligator clips are doing on my battery

Hope my engine doesnt blow up. What would be the reasoning for them, ARB lockers maybe?

ThomasJ

The door jamb will tell what was in it stock. But he is trying to figure out if they have been changed. It takes less than five minutes to do the test. Jack it up just enough to get the tires off the ground, put a chalk line on the shaft, chalk line on the tire, spin the shaft counting the revolutions it makes for one revolution of the tire. I dont know how much more simple it can get than that.