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22RTE Broken Timing chain

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Old 03-16-2007, 03:35 PM
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22RTE Broken Timing chain

I can't seem to remember if the 22RE is an interferance engine, or if just the 3VZE is?

Well, I found the reason my truck won't start: It didn't have a timing chain. I went to reset the static timing, and didn't feel any air coming out of the cylinder, and when I checked the rotor it wasn't moving...great.

When I pulled the valve cover off I foudn that there was no timing chain(yes I installed one), the disributor gear(attached to the cam) was off, the com sprocket was able to freely spin and the nubs the hold the cam sprocket in place(on both the cam and the gear) had been sheared off...ลลลล. Could this all have been caused by not having the bolt(on the end of the cam) torqued down properly(it only ran for mabey 3min total since it got put back together).

I popped the timing cover off and found the chain torn apart in the oil pan and around the crank, and found 5 teeth ripped off the crank sprocket...again ลลลล.

So I've got the exhaust side off, and got the plenum off. I'm stopping here for today because 1) I'm pissed right off and 2) it's dinner time and I'm hungry.

So appart from a new gasket set and a new timing set, can anyone think of anything else I'll need. And if there is anything else I should be watching for as I pull it apart, and put it back together?
Old 03-16-2007, 03:54 PM
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Bill,
First - sorry to hear.. Working on these things can be frustrating and expensive.

The 22re is an interference motor. I've never timed one incorrectly.. I know it would bend valves, I suppose if you bent them bad enough you might rip some teeth.

This will set you back a bit, but it's not the end of the world. Pull the head, you should clearly see if valves hit piston. You'll need to replace those valves for sure. In most cases, there isn't much (if any) damage to the lower end, but check your chain drive gear anyway.

When assembling the motor, put it at TDC (bottom end) - you'll see the #1 pistons all the way up. Put the head on. Then put the rocker assembly, with the dowel for the camshaft between 11-12 o'clock. Don't turn it over until you've got the chain on.

It's always a good idea to turn it over by hand after reassembly.

Hang in there.
Old 03-16-2007, 04:15 PM
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probably could have included this in the email, but: is there any risk of damaging the pistons if they hit the valves?

I really doubt it, and I'm sure a visual inspection will let me know(once it's apart), but never hurts to ask.
Old 03-16-2007, 05:11 PM
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sorry to hear that also bill, im having tranny problems now, it really sucks,you get everything working then BAM it hits you.
Old 03-16-2007, 05:41 PM
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Damn Damn Damn sorry to hear about this one. Yeah if the cam gear came off all that nasty crap would have been the result. Piston could have gouges or holes. Doubt holes unless you had it wound tight when it came apart. Good luck. Relaxe and take your time going back together double check yourself. Drove minen today, for the first time over a couple of miles anyway. I had to back track a couple of times to get there as well.
Jim
Old 03-16-2007, 05:42 PM
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Oh as to your anything else to look at question. Yeah inspect the guides really well. Liable to be cracked or some such.
Jim
Old 03-16-2007, 07:39 PM
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Just went through the same as you in the fall - timing chain broke; but count yourself lucky, I had the whole darn thing back together before I found out it was an interference engine. My valves had NO visual damage! A friend told me to spray brake or carb cleaner (can't remember which now) into the intake and exhaust ports on the head and it will leak out the bent valve(s). Number 4 on mine had damage. Damage was so slight, even when I knew one or more were bent I couldn't see it. The pistons were all fine. Consider dropping the oil pan also. It's a pain with the front diff. in the way but I figured I was chest deep, might as well go to the neck. Shrapenal from the chain, sprockets or guides likely has fallen into the pan and a chance of clogging the screen in there.
It's a nice feeling when everything is all buttoned up and running tight.
By the buy, I went with a brand new cylinder head and bolts. I was quoted from a reputable shop $300 to 600 for a valve job. Checking around on this site and elsewhere to use engnbldr parts. VERY satisfied with price, customer service and timely delivery.
Old 03-16-2007, 11:13 PM
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yeah ted is a great guy to deal with, you should think about sending him an email. and that really sucks man, im almost done putting my truck back toghther and am hoping all is good
Old 03-17-2007, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill
probably could have included this in the email, but: is there any risk of damaging the pistons if they hit the valves?

I really doubt it, and I'm sure a visual inspection will let me know(once it's apart), but never hurts to ask.

I've never heard of real piston damage beyond indentation.
As mentioned above, the valve train *has* to be checked.
Old 03-17-2007, 08:54 AM
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I talked to Ted about the whole thing.

He advised that I probably won't need a complete new set, but one or two are probably toast. So once I get the head pulled I'll get the valves out and see what I need.
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