the engine has spark, and gets fuel to the fuel filter, but will not even try and fire, ive sprayed ether down its throat and it will fire... any ideas on what this could be?
thanks

 

check your fuel lines from the filter to engine

 

Injectors not firing?

Test for power at the injectors, and test for pulses too with a test light.

 

Sound like the fuel pump

 

Make sure it does not have any big leaks or cracks in the main intake hose and gasket..... hows the timing? If its running on bottle.... fuel pump? leaking lines? filter? Is there gas in the truck? hows the plugs? efi system faulty? check fuses? any codes?

 

EFI fuses are good? Distributor pickup?

 

If he is getting spark the distributor is not the problem, but check the fuses and the injectors, also check your timing just in case although it should still turn over if the timing is off, it will just run really bad.

 

alright thanks everyone, im gunna test my computer box today in another 4runner and check all my fuses thanks for all the help ill let you know how it goes

 

fuses are all fine and i tested my computer in another truck and its fine, so im thinkng maybe i plug something in worng????

 

well it sounds like its not getting enough fuel, if it fires with either, try and check out the rubber fuel hoses for ANY cracks or leaks and start replacing, there isnt that much under there its mostly hard lines

 

Sounds like your fuel pump is not staying on. COR relay.

 

I had a similar problem on my 86 4Runner, I checked the fuel pump, and all of the sensors and relays, and still got nothing. it turned out to be the solenoid resistor, replaced it and she fired right up.

 

solenoid resister eh, hmmm im not really sure what that is? is it expensive or hard to replace

 

Check for power at B+ in the check connector when ignition is on. If no power, check EFI fuse and the EFI relay:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...37efimainr.pdf
If they're both okay but still no power to B+, check the IGN fuse in driver kick panel - that fuse powers the coil side of the EFI relay. If that fuse is okay, check that it is receiving power when ignition is on - it gets power from the IG2 terminal of the ignition switch. If no power, either bad ignition switch or bad connection.

If B+ is okay, jump B+ and FP in your check connector to bypass the COR to make sure the pump is getting power, and try starting it. (If you're getting fuel at the filter it's probably getting power, but it's good to double check.)

If she runs when B+ & FP are jumped, check your COR:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...38circuito.pdf
and fuel pump switch:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf

If she doesn't run with FP jumped, make sure the pump is running by listening at the gas tank while someone turns the ignition switch on (but doesn't crank the motor). When the ignition comes on with FP jumped, you should be able to hear the pump run.

If no start with FP jumped and the pump is running, check for power at the injectors when ignition is on. If no power at the injectors, check for power at the IGN fuse (if you haven't already). The injectors are also powered by IG2 off the ignition switch (but that power does not go through the IGN fuse - it's a separate lead that could have a bad connection). FYI the igniter and coil also are powered by IG2.

If the injectors are getting power with ignition on, check that they are getting firing pulses. The ecu fires the injectors by grounding them, so check for continuity between the not-hot injector wire and an engine ground. There should be pulses of continuity when the motor is cranked.* Also see page IG1-133 of troubleshooting section for further checks at the ecu:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...27troubles.pdf

Another way to check that the injectors are firing is to place the metal rod of a mechanics stethoscope against the side of the injector while someone is cranking the motor - the click will be loud and clear if it's firing.

If everything is getting power, the pump runs, and the injectors are clicking, maybe time to get the chicken's foot out to scare off the evil spirits. Or, check fuel pressure, double-check spark and timing, scratch head...


* EDIT: If you do this, be sure to disconnect all the injectors - otherwise there will be no "not-hot" injector lead (they're wired in parallel). Alternate: put a dmm that has a MAX function inline with the injector leads in the DC Volts setting and see if you get a pulse of 12v. If the meter has a pulse width function, you could use that instead.

 

check your grounds

 

alright im gunna try all this tonight or tomorro, really appreciate all the help and advise

 

ok so if i unplug all the plugs from the computer except the one labelled 14p it will run for a bit untill it runs out of fuel, im gettin closer but not close enough

 

i remember testing the COR(Curicut open Relay) in my truck when the fuel pump went out... that was not fun... first of all that dang thing is jammed behind the speaker box on the inside fender... plus unpluging that thing it like threading a needle..... thats prolly not the prob though.... they don't go out much.... keep is simple.... i would not recommend disconnecting plugs from the comp and stuff to try things... not good for it... sure you don't have the coolant temp sensor wire and cold start time switch wire crossed.... if so it will not start and will throw a code for thermo sensor mal....check see if you crossed some wires this is very important but simple.....TPS?

 

just curious if the engine wiring harness is the same in a 1990 22re as a 1992 22re?