I just bought an 86 4runner, it has a pretty good tapping in the enigne. A friend of mine is a toyota tech and listened to it and said the valves needed adjusted ( I think it is a remanufatured motor). He is very busy and I don't know when he can get around to fixing it. I don't like driving it as much as I do with the loud tapping. It sounds like crap and I am afraid it my cause more damage. I have average knowledge with engine work, but have never worked with an overhead cam engine. If I had a service manual how hard would it be to break the motor down to where I can adjust the valves. I have already found the specs for the valves, but if someone knows them and wants to tell me them again that would save me from searching for them again. So what do you guys think, should I dig in? It is my daily driver.

 

You sound competent enough. Buy or download the FSM and get after it.

 

It's very, very easy to do. Just put the all the hoses and switches off the valve cover (keeping track, of course) and then the valve cover. Everything's right there. Run a search on 22re valve adjustment or noisy valves and there will be plenty of info and tips on doing it.

Specs are .008in on the intake and .012in on the exhaust. But, when you read, you'll find many are playing with a tad tighter settings to help with the typical noise they make for 22re's.

You'll need a set of feeler gauges, a 12mm box/open wrench, and a flat head screwdriver. And a cold beer!

Oh.....and you may need new VC grommets and gasket. Your call. Just don't tighten the grommets down very tight. Just until they begin to compress and evenly all around. Don't forget RTV under and on the corners of the half-moon seals.

 

All you need to do is take the valve cover off. note which hose goes were adjust the valves 8 intake and 12 exhaust side. Put the engine at top dead center loosen the nut and adjust accordingly. Start with 1 and 2 on the intake side and 1 and 3 on the exhaust side. Then turn the engine one full rotation (360 degrees) using socket on the main pully. Then adjust 3,4 on intake and 2, 4 on exhaust. put back on valve cover put back all hoses to the right places and tighten valve cover screws. Dont over tighten could cause vavles to hit the cover. Just tight enough were the rubber underneath the nut starts to buldge. And all done.. hope this helps..

if i missed something someone say something..

 

ok thook beat me to it..lol oh make sure the engine is at normal operating temp. before you start. Will get your hands pretty toasty.. thats where a good cold beer comes in..lol

 

Fixed it for ya!

The '93 FSM is stickied under links to FSM's on the main forum page at the top. The procedure and specs will work for what you're doing despite the years.

Okay....here it is. See pg EG1-35
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf

 

Hey thanks guys, sounds like a fairly simple job. I think I will see if I can give a shot. I will let you know how it comes out.

 

weee...

just lemme give you this-
if you can't feel the drag from the adjuster (and try moving the gauge around before calling it good) then you're not tight enough. but if it makes it hard to move the gauge around, like trying to stir peanut butter, the adjuster is too tight. you want it to feel like maple syrup, not peanut butter.

 

Wish it was this easy on the 3.0...

 

yeah...
you have to measure the clearance, then measure the shim, then get another shim that compensates for the difference between your measurement and the shim that used to be there...
and then you have to measure the clearance with new shim and compensate for that if it's not right...


turning a little screw is so much easier, no?

 

that is assuming you can get the shims in/out, and also assuming you measured the bottom of the wore in bowl shape on the shim correctly.