22RE tuneup procedure
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
22RE tuneup procedure
I just performed a "spring cleaning" on my friend's 86 4runner. The results were pretty impressive.
This involves cleaning out the top end and induction systems, as well as taking care of the sensors that determine your air/fuel ratio.
The methods I use here are strictly my own, but I've noticed that his old 22RE, with over 225,000 on it, has much better throttle response, does not hesitate under load at lower RPM, and gets marginally better fuel economy as well as a noticeable increase in torque, and a smoother idle.
For this, I used:
One can Gumout Air Intake and Throttle Body Cleaner
(I much, MUCH prefer Amsoil's Power Foam for this task. Like the Gumout, it is introduced into the throttle body while the engine running at operating temperature and as the throttle is worked by hand, in 5-10 second bursts.)
One can CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner
One set NGK Vpower spark plugs
One Denso O2 sensor
Amsoil GL4 Syncromesh 75-90 to fill TRANS
Amsoil GL5 Severe Gear 75-90 to fill TCASE and DIFFS
Amsoil #2 Water Resistant Lithium Complex grease for Zerk fittings
Basically, i made a small hole in the rubber intake tube just before the throttle body. Into this hole (which is now sealed with a screw as a service port for future TB cleaning) was introduced the small spraytube from the TB cleaner. With the motor nice and warm from a quick run, I emptied the can over the course of about 10 minutes, in 5-10 second bursts of squirt/throttle twisting. I'd give it a few seconds to smooth out without cleaner, then rev up a bit just as I spray more in, countering the "bog" that occurs when tons of extra volatiles are added to the mix. This same procedure is used with the Amsoil Power Foam
After the can was empty, we took it for a quick spin, came back, popped off the air cleaner and MAF sensor harness, and unloaded a can of MAF sensor cleaner all over the innards of the MAF. The effluent dripped into a catch pan. It was allowed to dry, and the air filter box re-assembled with a new Denso filter.
The plugs were removed and inspected. Not too shabby! The Vpowers were gapped, had a dab of antisieze, and were popped back in. Cap, rotor and wires are all new already so this was skipped.
I changed out the PCV valve, installed the O2 sensor, installed the new driveline lubricants, and hit the grease points.
All of this took about 2-3 hours at a slower pace, and when complete, the motor was much stronger and smoother, the trans shifts like a dream.
And that, people, is how it happened to me.
cheers
This involves cleaning out the top end and induction systems, as well as taking care of the sensors that determine your air/fuel ratio.
The methods I use here are strictly my own, but I've noticed that his old 22RE, with over 225,000 on it, has much better throttle response, does not hesitate under load at lower RPM, and gets marginally better fuel economy as well as a noticeable increase in torque, and a smoother idle.
For this, I used:
One can Gumout Air Intake and Throttle Body Cleaner
(I much, MUCH prefer Amsoil's Power Foam for this task. Like the Gumout, it is introduced into the throttle body while the engine running at operating temperature and as the throttle is worked by hand, in 5-10 second bursts.)
One can CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner
One set NGK Vpower spark plugs
One Denso O2 sensor
Amsoil GL4 Syncromesh 75-90 to fill TRANS
Amsoil GL5 Severe Gear 75-90 to fill TCASE and DIFFS
Amsoil #2 Water Resistant Lithium Complex grease for Zerk fittings
Basically, i made a small hole in the rubber intake tube just before the throttle body. Into this hole (which is now sealed with a screw as a service port for future TB cleaning) was introduced the small spraytube from the TB cleaner. With the motor nice and warm from a quick run, I emptied the can over the course of about 10 minutes, in 5-10 second bursts of squirt/throttle twisting. I'd give it a few seconds to smooth out without cleaner, then rev up a bit just as I spray more in, countering the "bog" that occurs when tons of extra volatiles are added to the mix. This same procedure is used with the Amsoil Power Foam
After the can was empty, we took it for a quick spin, came back, popped off the air cleaner and MAF sensor harness, and unloaded a can of MAF sensor cleaner all over the innards of the MAF. The effluent dripped into a catch pan. It was allowed to dry, and the air filter box re-assembled with a new Denso filter.
The plugs were removed and inspected. Not too shabby! The Vpowers were gapped, had a dab of antisieze, and were popped back in. Cap, rotor and wires are all new already so this was skipped.
I changed out the PCV valve, installed the O2 sensor, installed the new driveline lubricants, and hit the grease points.
All of this took about 2-3 hours at a slower pace, and when complete, the motor was much stronger and smoother, the trans shifts like a dream.
And that, people, is how it happened to me.
cheers
#3
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its just a 1/2" black coarse thread screw with a tiny rubber gasket under it. it threaded into the dense rubber of the intake tube pretty nicely, and provides a nice seal against sucking in debris or liquid.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TJWilly
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
6
07-31-2015 02:05 PM