Sorry that this is dragging on, I dread nightmares like this.

If starter fluid is keeping it running, that points to fuel as you mentioned. I dont know the best way to test fuel delivery after what youve done so far.

im not sure if theres any sensors that might be confused by spray.

 

I dont see the harm in rigging hot wires for the injectors. But you should be able to measure voltage at each connector with the key in run.


Also, I dont think youve answered whether you get an CEL code.

 

I didn't read the whole thread. But my experience in the past with symtoms your describing was the FPR... bought a couple from the parts store that were junk and then got an oem one and fixed my issue.

 

Fuel filter installed the right way? On a 22RE, the flow arrow points toward the fuel tank, and not toward the front like normal. It's because of the way it's plumbed.

At the 7:15 mark of the video below, you will see what I am talking about.

 

This is the classic sign of a problem in the VAF-COR circuit. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/ Note "circuit." "Swapping parts" is often a waste of time and money; you don't know what you're doing, and you'll never catch that broken wire, bad connector, etc. Get out your multimeter, run the tests I've described, and rule out a VAF-COR problem before you go on.

Where/how are you measuring fuel pressure? When the truck dies, what is happening to the fuel pressure? (If the problem is in fuel delivery, the fuel pressure will drop first and then the engine will stumble and die. If in the injectors or ignition, the fuel pressure will stay up until the engine stops turning.)

Where/how are you measuring fuel flow? On my 3VZE, I plumb a 6mm/0.25" vinyl hose from the fuel-return at the FPR to a container, and run the pump with the jumper. I get about 1/2 liter/min, quite a bit less than the number you quote. But this is an end-end test. You can do the same test with the engine running, just be a little more careful (you don't want to be splashing gasoline.)

 

Ok guys I will try to answer everyone’s questions and thanks so much for taking the time to read and respond.

no check engine light or codes on the truck

i believe the fuel filter arrow is in the right direction but I will try to check it on my lunch break.

i checked the fuel pressure at the csi using a banjo bolt from the test kit at Orielly. The pressure was mid 40’s with the pump running and truck not running. Once the truck started it would drop to approximately 37-38 and as the truck shut off I believe it went back up once the engine stalled and lost vacuum to the fpr.

I measured the flow rate when I had the fuel rail disconnected by putting the End of the line that connects into the front of the fuel rail in a can and timing it. It makes sense my numbers would be higher because it is not going through the fpr so it’s only restriction is the filter. Basically it is a flow rate at low or no pressure. I will check it out of the fpr as soon as I get a chance to see how it compares.

I will also go back and review the previous posts on testing the vaf-cor circuits and see how far I can get with it.

thanks again guys.

 

This is the truck that is fighting me. Nothing special but I’ve had it 15 years and really want to get it going again so I can take my 5 year old daughter for adventures on the weekends.

 

very cool...

 

I am looking into the variable resistor part of the vafm. If there is a bad wire or bad connection before the signal gets to the ecu could the injectors still be getting pulses? I am getting pulses but maybe they are based on incorrect data caused by the bad circuit? Seems most likely that my issue might be between the afm and the ecu or between the ecu and the injectors. My connector at the afm is missing the spring clip also. Is that a part that I can buy?

 

I am not having any luck testing the wiring from the afm to the ecu. I believe I have the right ecu pin diagram and I believe I have the correct afm diagram. Using a multimeter set to beep for continuity and trying to check from the connector on the afm end of the wiring to the connector end at the ecu. So far I have not had any luck getting continuity for vs vc or tha. I am beginning to wonder if I have the wrong diagram or I am doing something else wrong.

 

I might have found some issues with the wiring from the afm to the ecu. Based on the pin diagram I have for the afm here are the wire colors for each wire at the afm. This is based on viewing the afm looking towards the front the drivers seat. 1993 22re.

Fc green/yellow. E1 brown. E2 brown/black. Vb white/red. Vc green/black. Vs yellow/blue. Tha yellow/green.

when I look at the ecu end of the wiring based on my pin out diagram it appears the wire colors match up for E2, Vc, Vs, and Tha. However when I check continuity for each wire at the afm connector to the ecu connector I am only getting continuity on Vc. Do I have an issue with three of these wires or do I possibly have the wrong pin out for one of the sides? I would guess wrong pin out but the wire colors are matching up.

Is Fc E1 E2 Vb Vc Vb Tha the correct layout for a 1993? I am pretty sure my ecu Pinout is correct because it lines up to my connectors. Even the empty pin locations line up with what I have on the truck.

 

Some updates on this truck. I put a different distributor off a previously running engine and it made no difference. I was also able to check all wires from the afm to the ecu/COR and it appears they have have continuity and seem to be ok. I also did a test of fuel flow coming out of the fpr return line. With the pump jumpered I am getting a touch over half a liter per minutes which matches a previous responders truck.

Before I jumped the fuel pump I tried starting it with the return line going to a can. The truck had been sitting for a week and it took 4 or 5 starts/stalls before I got fuel coming out of the line but I did have about 4’ of hose added to the line. Any other ideas on where to check next?

 

I'm having a similar issue with an 86 that sat for years and finally got a rebuild. Excellent info in your thread and I know it's old, but did you ever find a solution? Thanks!

 

I have read many threads like this of here is my problem please help me fix them one day no response. When I worked on Toyota’s there was a truck that did this and I replaced the fuel pump and filter of course and ran just fine after. Was curious if that’s all this was but probably will never know for sure…

 

I'm curious what ever came of this? I tried to skim over everything. If electrical is testing good, and there's good spark and plenty of fuel coming out injectors, but it will run on starting fluid, I'd suspect a vacuum leak causing a lean condition. This can be a PITA to track down, but if you haven't already, I'd consider an EGR delete to remove variables, and if you're still having issues, at least there are less lines to test or replace. It sounds like you've tried just about everything else. If it's not a vacuum problem, the next thing I'd suspect would be an electrical gremlin. Sometimes circuits test different under load, or when other circuits are engaged, or when the truck is rumbling. I had a Jeep with a slightly corroded fuel pump relay terminal that took me a month to figure out. Everything tested fine....until that relay wiggled a little bit. After weeks of shotgunning parts and hours of troubleshooting, one little spray of Deoxit fixed it.

Anyway, this is an old thread, but either update us, or check those vacuum lines and intake gaskets!

 

Ok everyone an update on the truck. After running out of tests to perform and finding someone local to clean injectors I decided to give that a try to eliminate injectors. With the truck running fine one day and not running at all a few days later I had dismissed this idea. According to the injector guy they were extremely dirty and most were not spraying at all. He got them to within about 90% of spec and the truck is running fine now. Only thing I can think of is it was running with a few dead injectors and once another injector clogged it was no longer able to run. Either that or they all became clogged while sitting for a few days which I highly doubt. Can these trucks run seemingly normal with a couple of clogged injectors?

 

no, not really. they only have 4 cylinders, and one (or more) not providing power will be noticed. the miss would be pretty evident.

 

Always good to find the fix and get the tuck back running. That's why I will run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner about every third month. I switch them up between brands. Some say it's a waste of money, but sill on the OEMs never pulled to clean in 36 years and 481K miles. Idles smoother than a 22RE has a right too.