all_terrain17

Getting that intermittent "click" when I turn the key every now and then when I turn the key, so I'm pulling the starter to take a look at the contacts and plunger...

But, I have to hand it to the engineers over at Toyota...it's obvious they haven't turned a wrench before. I don't think they could have made it any more difficult to remove the top bolt holding the starter on, and all I'm managing to do is mangle the head. Do I have to remove the cab and intake to gain access to the starter?

Seriously though, how do I get to that bolt? Wrench or ratchet?

This job's not a problem for those of you with body lifts.

Elton

some long extension and a little mirror to see the bolt have it out in under 45mins

tkm433

Us a 6-point socket with a foot long extension and a ratchet. I might of used the 12" and a 6" extension and reached through the fender after removing the metel cover plate on the fender.

You think it is fun to take it out?? Wait till you try to get the bolt back in there!!

all_terrain17

Removed the oil filter and some lines, I can actually see it from the top now. Tried to hammer on sockets but they just slip off the nut whenever I apply torque. Vice grips, pipe wrenches...can't get a grip. Gonna have to put it back together tomorrow and take it to the tech...damn I hate conceding to simple maintenance sh%t like this.

You're right though, if the nut wasn't mangled in the first place, that's definitely how to get to it. Ridiculous.

Bill

When you get those "bolts" replaced(they arn't nuts...at least mine arn't). invest in an air/electric ratchet.

Using a 6" extension, and an air ratchet it takes me under 6min to pull the starter(yes I timed myself...shadup).

all_terrain17

Bottom one was a bolt (which I could get out), top was a nut on a stud coming from the bellhousing.

Worked with for the nut for another hour and couldn't get it out so I just put it all back together.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

See:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eresTheStarter

First, remove the access panel in the wheel well. it will make your life much better! Usually on an IFS truck, pull the front skid plate and use a long extension from the front of the engine to hit the one bolt. Lets you get enough leverage on it to break it loose. You can get to it w/o the extension, but it is hard to get any torque on the bolt from up close, BTDT!

all_terrain17

Yes, I pulled the panel out. The problem is removing the stripped nut. Not enough room between the intake and body of the starter get a good grip with the vice grips...my arms hurt .

Funny thing is, I had very little trouble with the fuel filter which was supposed to be bad

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Might try one of these:

ewong

Other than yout current difficulty with the nut - the overall design of using a stud and an nut is FAR better than if they ahd a bean counter decide to save on fasteners adn use the same sized BOLTS top and bottom.

At least this way you hang the starter on the stud, let go and THEN start the nut.

I dont recall having too much dificulty with this - I think I use a short arm "gear wrench" from the side by lying down on a creeper and reaching "up"...

fthertime666

i agree with ewong

toyaholic

with the access panel removed and the front crossmember jacked up there is plenty of room to get in through the wheel well. a couple of different extensions and maybe some rachteting wrenches and the job is cake. takes me about five minutes to get it out. i have the damaged nut extractor kit 4crawler mentioned, sounds like it is definately in order in your case.

bob200587

Jed are you still in Cookeville? I've changed my starter 3-4 times. I can help you out if you're up there. I might be coming back up to pay off my balance and probably resign from the fraternity tomorrow...well, today now I suppose. If I do I'll let you know.

all_terrain17

Hey Bob, no I'm back home now. How'd your finals go?



That nut is fubared, the bolt-outs look promising, may have to look into that. Thanks for your help guys, yeah I agree, the design isn't as bad as it looks initially...I'm just being a pus.

Think I'm gonna go out and take a crack at that squeeking clutch slave now...need to feel competent again

rdlsz24

Get yourself a set of the bolt outs! I had to borrow my dad's set to get the 1 damn allen head bolt out of the intake manifold since it was stripped out before I even tried it. Bolt out took it out in 30 seconds. I was so impressed I bought my own set.

Rob

all_terrain17

I would, but...




I need to start saving my pennies.

rdlsz24

I got the same set for $35 shipped last week on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=019

I love buying Craftsman tools on eBay cause you get them for cheaper and they still have the same lifetime warranty even without a reciept.

Rob

ewong

Use a dremel to cut the nut.
Or a hack saw blade (by hand).

There are also small vise grips that have a "hex" on the jaw.

Make user to use a SIX point wrench on the nut (they make em).

Maybe the PO put loctite on the nut - heat the nut with a torch (MAPP) for a few sec - be careful of the fuel lines nearby tho...

all_terrain17

I'm soaking the nut with PB Blaster for a few days. Did this with the exhaust manifold nuts and some of them were finger tight when it was time to remove. No way I can get a hack saw in there, and I'm not risking using a torch that close to the fuel lines. There's no rush, I got all of Christmas break

Saw a nut splitter at the parts house the other day, but seems there just isn't enough room to use it.

I can replace a slave cylinder though so I feel somewhat competent

Sonofmayhem

i got an irwin kit from vatozone works awesome, but i also just wanted to make sure the bottom was a bolt not a stud