highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

ok, so i'm not going to be able to look at it tonight cuz i've gotta go to a dinner thing, but i just wanted to say that before i left work i decided to mark the position of the slot on the idle screw for s and giggles and checked it just now when i got home.

whaddya know the screw had turned about 90*, not sure which direction but i'm assuming clockwise since the idle went down. maybe this is a duct tape fix? hehehe.

you mentioned an o-ring on the screw so maybe that is shot? can i unscrew that idle screw and put something on there like a dab of some atv or loctite, maybe a once-around with some nylon tape?

abecedarian

yeah, you can pull the screw out and check for the ring. if it's missing, autozone should have something you can use.
one or two trips with teflon tape shouldn't hurt anything.
if you're going to use loctite, use blue, and make sure you do it with the engine warmed up so you can get the idle set before it cures.
rtv would be okay, just not too much and use sensor safe rtv.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

sweet. i'll give it a try tomorrow.

abecedarian

ooh... you bad....
making us wait til tomorrow to see if it works?

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

ok, well all seems to be good now. pulled the idle screw to see what's up and the "gasket/o-ring" on there looked shiny and hard instead of rubbery like i would assume a fresh one might. didn't look like the gasket came off the screw too easily so i ended up fixing it with some teflon plumbers tape. screw is much tighter now and has to be adjusted with a screwdriver. chose that since the threads were so fine and thought blue loctite or rtv would stick a little too well for future repairs. drove it around for a while and haven't had any problems yet (knock on wood). also cleared the ecu and re-pulled the engine codes and nothing came up

now i've just gotta see about sending back that COR that I bought and put the money toward a winter tuneup.

abecedarian

sounds good. keep us posted.

Atlanta4Runner

Thank you all for your help. I had this same exact problem last Friday, driving to work, where the truck kept stalling at IDLE, with clicking from a relay near the glove box. My first thought was that the idle was too low, but I quickly dismissed that, thinking that idle adjustments don't just change themselves and that there was also the matter of that relay clicking.

Well, this post gave me confidence and made me consider the idle setting again. The screw was in fact, loose. I could also turn it with my fingernail, as the OP described, and an adjustment stopped the clicking relay and stalling. I put some of the blue locktite on the screw, set the idle properly with a tach, and haven't had any problems since (it has been almost a week.)

What I thought would be a tough problem to diagnose was just a simple turn of a screw. Thanks!

BTW, I come here all the time to read up on the tricks and tips, but this is my first post. That diagnosis was spot on.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

glad to hear one of my problems helped someone out. i decided on the teflon tape over the loctite on mine because of the possibility of dry loctite debris falling into the hole down the road. prolly won't ever happen, but it's fixed.

THE_KID

Did codes 24 and 31 show up again?

legionmanchild

I have the same issue! My screw was loose as well, all should be good now. The video below is of the clicking sound we're all talking about, for diagnoses sake.
[YOUTUBE]
http://youtu.be/PyQNlKg-vss[YOUTUBE]

matt18603

Awesome thread, fixed a problem I had just this morning and I got to work on time. Amazing what a screwdriver and duct tape can do lol

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

good to hear another person found this useful. i'm guessing there are many more rigs out there with a dried up o-ring causing the same problem.

RAD4Runner

Could be:
bad AFM,
Intermittent connection from AFM contacts to C.O.R.

See your schematic and bypass AFM using the test connector, and monitor if problem occurs. Do not forgot to remove bypass after testing.