Joe's Toy

Ok guys I've looked thru the threads on idles issues but I can't seam to pin this one down.

(Whoever can tell me the fix wins a completely free previously used K&N drop in. Seriously shipping is on me.)

The truck was running as good as could be.

I took out the completely dry K&N air filter the PO had installed and ran some errands before picking up a new throw away filter. (I drove the truck w/o a air filter for the day).

After I installed the new air filter I changed the oil and took it on a test drive. All is good except my idle seamed a little high (1100 rpms) I chocked it up to the EFI getting use to now filter so I pulled the EFI fuse for about a hour to reset it. BIG MISTAKE!

Now when I start the truck it struggles to life and barely idles (500 rpms).
I decided I just needed to let the truck set and reset so I let it idle for 15 min. It was idling nicely when I came back, but as soon as i touch the accelerator the idle will blip up and then reset to it's 500 rpms.

I'll start looking for vacuum leaks but in the mean time I was hoping I might get some suggestions. I sure hope I don't have to chase this forever like some of the posts I've read... Thanks you ladies and gentlemen!

whokrz

How many turns is your idle screw?
Normally vacuum leaks cause a high idle. I have found that low idle is normally to much gas or not enough air.

putneysmachine

Check and make sure the door in the AFM (air flow meter) is not stuck open (or partially open). As I'm sure you know some people over-oil the K&N and that oil will sometimes gum up the door of the AFM.

Also check the throttle body butterfly and make sure it is closing all of the way. Normal driving can cause pretty nasty carbon build up, and then throw the excess K&N oil into the mix.....

if both of those check ok, make sure your intake tube from AFM to the throttle body are not creating a vacuum leak. The removal and install procedure can cause cracks at the accordioned parts of the tubes, thus, a vacuum leak.

If all else fails, pull the battery cable off, step on the brakes. Reconnect the cable and try again.... you never know.

myyota

You might want to remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning, they can get real dirty on the inside and that can cause idle problems.

abecedarian

Did you pull the intake duct off the VAFM when you pulled the filter? Did you tighten the clamp back up when you reconnected everything? ... or overtighten it or move it some odd way and crack the boot(s)?

Also, it can take a few start-ups/shut-down cycles for the ECU to completely re-learn things. Resetting the ECU also clears any learned 'fuel-trim' (coarse adjustments to the air-fuel mixture) that it has accumulated since the last reset so it may take a while for things to come back to normal anyways, but simply resetting the ECU shouldn't throw things too far out of whack like that.

Joe's Toy

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I checked that little door in the airbox and I tried to let it idle and "learn" again and then I started spraying some brake cleaner around my boot an sure enough. I was the "accordion" boot that connects to the TB. Thank you thank you! I'm going to try to epoxy it till I can get one on monday. So Putneysmachine you want a free k&n? oh and of course here's the pic!

#1Grunt

don't epoxy just wrap with gorilla tape until you find another, I had the same problem two weeks ago

myyota

I used electrical tape on mine when it cracked, and that worked just fine.

Joe's Toy

Great! Thanks gentleman!