22re running really bad, Code 3
Jun 23, 2010 | 09:01 PM
#21
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 1
From: Arnold California
You haven't posted any results of what you checked. Did you check resistance of both circuits of the coil? What were they? How about the signal coil? How is the wiring and how are the connectors? Corroded? Did you clean up the igniter ground & verify it? How many ohms between igniter ground (probably a solid brown wire) and the neg batt post? How many ohms between that wire on the igniter & its place of connection to the ecu (terminal E1)? How many ohms between the chassis & neg batt post? Between the engine & neg batt post?
The fsm says code 3 is no signal from IGF 4 times in succession. IGF is one of the four wires between the ecu and igniter - it's the black wire with yellow stripe. It's the ignition confirmation signal from the igniter to the ecu. If the ecu doesn't receive it, it stops firing the injectors, which certainly could cause your bad running. A code 3 could be caused by a bad connection on the IFG wire between the igniter and ecu, so I would check it. You need connect a jumper wire to one end of IGF and lead it to the other end where you can check ohms between the other end of IGF & the jumper. If you don't have a jumper wire, a jumper cable with clean clamps will do the trick. If you don't have back-probe adapters for your multimeter test leads, you can connect to ecu terminals by pushing a sewing needle into the connector and holding the test leads firmly against it.
If the IGF wire is okay, could be a bad igniter, but also could be something preventing a good spark, such as a bad coil or bad connection/ground. Check the ohms on the cable from coil to distrib. Or the power supply to the coil/igniter could be intermittent. Check the positive lead of the coil for solid, unwavering power when ignition is on. If it's intermittent, probably a bad efi main relay.
While you're checking IGF, may as well check IGT, the spark triggering signal from ecu to igniter (black wire white stripe) and NE, the crank position signal from the signal coil, through the igniter to the ecu (black wire red stripe).
Let us know what you've checked and what you found - we need info to help you.
The fsm says code 3 is no signal from IGF 4 times in succession. IGF is one of the four wires between the ecu and igniter - it's the black wire with yellow stripe. It's the ignition confirmation signal from the igniter to the ecu. If the ecu doesn't receive it, it stops firing the injectors, which certainly could cause your bad running. A code 3 could be caused by a bad connection on the IFG wire between the igniter and ecu, so I would check it. You need connect a jumper wire to one end of IGF and lead it to the other end where you can check ohms between the other end of IGF & the jumper. If you don't have a jumper wire, a jumper cable with clean clamps will do the trick. If you don't have back-probe adapters for your multimeter test leads, you can connect to ecu terminals by pushing a sewing needle into the connector and holding the test leads firmly against it.
If the IGF wire is okay, could be a bad igniter, but also could be something preventing a good spark, such as a bad coil or bad connection/ground. Check the ohms on the cable from coil to distrib. Or the power supply to the coil/igniter could be intermittent. Check the positive lead of the coil for solid, unwavering power when ignition is on. If it's intermittent, probably a bad efi main relay.
While you're checking IGF, may as well check IGT, the spark triggering signal from ecu to igniter (black wire white stripe) and NE, the crank position signal from the signal coil, through the igniter to the ecu (black wire red stripe).
Let us know what you've checked and what you found - we need info to help you.
wow, thats alot of info, thank you very much, im a newb when it comes to using the ohm meter so give me a few days and ill get back to you.
Dec 27, 2010 | 03:37 PM
#22
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Parker, CO
Hey i was wondering whatever ended up solving the problem? I have code 3 stored in memory but no cel light is on. I'm having the same symptoms, dist, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil are all new. I will start checking on all the grounds hopefully this will solve it. TPS is also newer DELCO. I'll try adjusting.
Oct 2, 2012 | 03:58 PM
#25
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Riverdale, UT
My 87 had the sputter, it wasn't bad but noticeable. i decided to check some things and found that in the past 25 or so years some PO replaced my ECU with a turbo ECU. i found one that matches the below p/n and wala fixed. runs way better now. this is probably a rare case but you never know. i found this diagram below and it seems ligit, well at least it worked for me.
Oct 3, 2012 | 05:08 AM
#28
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Ok great! Thanks for the tip. Just checked out your build thread and your runner looks great. I've got to look and see if I have any loose connections to my injectors. Also, where did you get your windshield gasket?
Oct 3, 2012 | 07:53 AM
#29
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Riverdale, UT
Thanks! It's come a long ways and I still gave more planned. For the windshield I I had some fugly chrome stuff around it, probably stock, but I just ripped it off being careful of the careful of the windshield glue. I do plan on having a local place put something in to fill the gap that is there
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MMA_Alex
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
25
Apr 18, 2017 05:07 AM
Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
Jul 6, 2015 01:20 PM
