bryan89

ok. listen to this pile of garbage.
884runner. 22re. 5spd.

been doing some maintenance on my truck since i got it only put about 100 miles or so since i got it. today, i had the trim panels by the rear seats out of the truck cause i was working on making some nice new stiff ones out of aluminum plate for the rear cargo area. well, while i had them out i thought i would go ahead and do 4crawlers window switch mod that allows you to roll the rear window up and down using the console switch without the key in the ignition cause the window module was RIGHT THERE. so i took the jack apart and soldered in the jumper wire that jumps the constant twelve volts for the rear keyed switch (blue) to the switched 12 volt pin that powers the switch up front when the truck is on (red).

everything worked great. just like he said.
anyways, i was cleaning up and happened to peak at my dash. my low oil pressure light was on. checked the ignition and the key was all the way back and out. (clock was off and everything so i know it was off). but the light was on!

i havent had any problems with this light since i have had it. started the truck 50 times probably. no problems. had the battery out a couple times. no problems.

so i cranked up the truck. it went out. turned the off. light came on again.
i immediately thought that what i did to the rear switch somehow applied power to that circuit.

but i unjacked the plug with the jumper wire in the window relay box and it was still on.

it was getting late so i just disconnected the battery for now. so it wouldnt drain. but idk wats up. ill have to get out the wiring diagram tomorrow, but thought i would ask you guys.

any thoughts?

the only things i have done since the last time i know it was working properly and now was check the timing (with the e1 and t terminals jumped out), verify my idle speed, and jumper the window switch.

there is now way those things could be on the same circuit...right? lol.

iamsuperbleeder

that's pretty odd...

have you checked to see if anything else that normally only comes on with the ignition is working? like the 12v outlet, the turn signals, wipers, side windows, ac blower motor, etc?

bryan89

well,
all of that stuff worked before hand. (ie yesterday) and to be honest when i was messing around with this i didnt think to recheck all of that stuff, but i know for a fact that the clock and radio come on when the motor cranks up.

but the light goes out immediately. just like it should. as soon as i shut it off it comes back on.

does this mean the sending unit is going bad? i think that would be a logical expalnation if it stayed lit all the time. meaning when the sending unit failed it would just stay lit, to alert the driver of a problem. but it goes off when the oil pressure comes up.

it seemed to run fine.

iamsuperbleeder

nah if the sending unit went bad, the light wouldn't turn off once the motor was cranked

bryan89

so then it must be related to the window switch? its the only thing that i have changed electronically.

i cant believe that though. i checked my wiring with what 4crawler said on his site before i did anything to make sure i agreed with him. so i know my connections are correct. plus it works...so something must be right.

my guess is that the problem existed before the switch mod and i just didnt notice, but what would cause something like this? where do i start trouble shooting? cause the sending unit obviously works

sam333

In almost all modern cars/trucks, the MIL , parking break , oil preassure, charging light and seat belt,...ect all come on when you turn the key to start /run. Then they go out in quick order as engine starts. Except your parking break and seat belt. These are all on the same circuit , so you would think if you were getting power to one with the engine off ( oil pressure ) they would all have power and be lit up.

bryan89

ok found the issue.
it was the wire that i jumped out according to 4crawlers instuctions for the window mod.

i had previously unjacked the whole module, and it didnt change anything. but i went and physically cut the wire i added in the harness and the light went out. back to normal.

so,,,, i wonder if 4crawler knows about this. in his mod section he clearly states that he did not do it the way i did, but recommended it if you would like to keep the "top off" safety switch under the bed rail operative. (the other method he lists over rides it...which is what he did originally) i will pm him and invite him to the converstation to see if he has any input on the situation or a possible work around, because i would like to keep the safety switch operative more so than having the console switch work with the ignition off.

my next question is..has anyone else done this mod and not experienced these results? if so, then there may be some other problem with my wiring harness that caused the light to come on...(some unknown short somewhere)

thanks again
bryan

bryan89

went ahead and pm'd 4crawler. hopefully he will chime in.

meanwhile anybody else have this problem with the same mod (jumping the switched 12 volts to the constant?)

if you didnt do it this way, how did you do it. im sure there is more than one way to skin this cat...

scope103

This link http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/overalle.pdf has the wiring diagram for a 1990-95 4Runner (see page 14). It shows that if you connect the switched line (Blue) at the Rear Power window control relay connector to the +12v line (White with Red), not only will the rear window work "all the time," but you are applying power to the Gauge circuit all the time. Power to the gauges with the engine not running would turn on the 0-psi oil light (I'll bet it also turned on the fuel gauge, if you looked closely).

This isn't the exactly correct wiring diagram for your truck (so the wire colors may not match), but I'll bet the way the gauge and rear window circuits interact is the same.

I could not find on 4Crawler's page the exact modification you described (this modification http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#relay doesn't seem to be the one you did). So I don't know his take on this.

bryan89

that link is correct. he has the mod i did in his notes just below what you are talking about.

traced the circuit as well. where i jumped it out back feeds right into the light. might be able to add a diode or jump someplace else.
looking into that now.