aikinsmike

OK so new eng. 10k ago. New fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, just about every damn thing.

Truck is stalling when I come to a stop, but not every time. Checked the Tb its clean, everything else is set, plugs, timing, etc. What gives?

Also does the O2 sensor threads thread in or are they welded in. Took it out to replace and it was all white. Which tells me its running lean.(back to the shop for free warr. work on this prob.) One is stipped out so new sensor is leaking, and annoying me. Have new header but have to read eng. warr. to make sure I dont void it.

About my truck 1985 SR5 ext. cab straight axle EFI 4" lift 33" tires and amazing no kidding only 114k orginal miles.

thook

Thanks, Mike.

What O2 sensor threads are you talking about?

The running lean could be the cause of your stalling. Could be low fuel pressure. Maybe fuel pressure regulator.

How does the truck idle? Does it die when you let off the throttle....like right after? Or just when you're sitting there? Or what?

aikinsmike

Threads the O2 sensor nuts go on. Just above the ext. mani. collector.

Slighty rough about 750-800 10 times smoother at about 900. If I tap the gas it bumps the choke and sits at about 900-1000. Yes to your question. As soon as I let off the gas just dies.

Also it surges from time to time when I am holding the idle up witht eh peddle to warm it up. goes from 1100-1350 back and forth. Probly all related but this is my least worry.

thook

Oh, you mean the studs. I don't believe they are welded, but I can't say for sure. Never payed much attention to that.

Kinda sounds like the fuel press. regulator to me. Pull the vacuum line off from it and see if there's any fuel in there. Also, you can run another longer length of vacuum tube to the regulator, suck on it, see if the diaphragm is working properly.

aikinsmike

Will try that when I am not working at work tomorrow and post results.

aikinsmike

I can't seem to find the fuel pressure regulator. Does anyone know where it is at?

Truck didn't stall once this morning. I know I played with the idle screw(was almost all the way in came out a few turns idle was really high, but loosened the throttle cable a little last night(was really tight). Which dropped the idle back down to about 750. Noticed when driving fast and letting off the throttle completely. The idle went back down to 750 really smooth. It did drop to 500-600 then back up to 750 a time or two. Is that common?

thook

It's toward the back of the motor in the area of the EGR valve and tucked under the intake plenum a bit.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...30fuelpres.pdf

My other thought was sticky throttle cable....or even a bad dashpot. Does your '85 have a dashpot? It would be on the throttle body opposite side of the TPS. Anyway, I was reluctant to propose a possibity with either of those two things because of the surging .

sloppy85toy

i just got my runner oing and i did a oil change just to be on top.when i took off he oil filter it was dry and there was only 2 quarts of oil in it and i mean exactly 2 quarts.i had it changed at lube stop only a few months ago.i never checked it afterwards.a week later it was stolen and striped.but there wasnt any thing took off that leaks oil.if lube stop only put 2 quarts of oil in it would that cause it to not get any oil to the filter?

sloppy85toy

sorry i meant to start my own thread

4runnerx3

amrinc26

I have an 86 toyota 2wd atomatic that stalls out as soon as you put it into gear. If you hould your foot on the brake, and give it gass it will keep running, but major vibration. And it sounds like im getting spark nock.
It drives good down the road, shifts fine and has loots of power.
I just did a complete tune up and fixed all air leeks. A few people told me the
the tourq converter could be stuck ingaged.( gass saving device?) But i dont
know whare to start. The stuped book said to take it to a shop. Can some one please help me locate the switch that makes the converter look up?

84sr5yoty

Sounds like the EGR may be stuck open a tad.

Remove the metal pipe that goes between the EGR valve and the upper plenum. Plug the hole in the upper plenum, I used a cork but you could also use a rubber stopper purchased from a hardware store too. If it idles smoother and the problem disappears, you found the culprit.

My EGR was slightly stuck open and my engine was only pulling 17 inches of vacuum at idle. After plugging off the EGR, it went back up to 21.

aikinsmike

Problem went away after playing with teh idle adj. screw and found out it was almost all the way closed. Loosened up the throttle cable and everything was fine. Until I got my headers and new exht. on then same problem but even more often.

I went through and played with teh dist. and advanced it a little and backed down the idle screw some and problem seems to be gone. BUT I do have the idle set at 950 which i dont mind (sucks gas down faster but screw it). Not sure if the idle higher is holding it or not.

I guess my question is has anyone else had to adjust timing or idle after installing headers and exht.???

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

i think you are supposed to reset the ECU after header install, but don't quote me on that.

ARSmay

Glad you soved your problem. To answer your question regarding the o2 sensors- Usually it is a threaded bung (hehe I said bung) welded in to the exhaust system that the 02 sensor screws into.