Well the easiest way to do it is to remove the 4 bolts holding the throttle body (and IACV) to the intake plenum. There are two little coolant lines which you also remove. Take off the accelerator wire.

When you pull off the throttle body, you can take off the IACV much easier on a work bench. Once off, you can see the spring loaded valve. I just take carb cleaner and spray the hell out of every little port. Let it sit a while and keep going. You can see if the coolant passages are clogged with gunk. Mine were not, just the valve itself had blow by gunk in it.

Prop the IACV so you can just fill it with carb cleaner, and let it sit for an hour. Then spray it more.

 

My idea was to take the IACV off and clean every orfice, spring, gear and what not. But that didnt work. Yea im going to pull the TB off next week. It seems to be running odd now that i messed with it.

Damn truck anyways..

 

So i bought a tb gasket and an O2 sensor but still been putting it off cause the weather been cool and its been running much better. Today was like the third hot day (around 85) and it started to run crappy again. Not as bad as it was running before but not good. So after a 2 hour drive i pulled into my house went got my camera and heres the video. This is it running decent. It runs alot worse, and sometimes wont idle just pa pa die.

http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r...ndcoast015.mp4

 

Did you buy a Denso 02 sensor ?. If you bought a Bosch 02 sensor take it back and get a Denso 02 sensor. The Bosch 02 sensors don`t work well in toyota engines. Also remove and clean the throttle body.

 

Yea i bought a denso O2, all the parts stores looked at me odd when i said no bosch. I bought Denso #234-4052. I have some Tb/Carb cleaner im going to clean the intake plenum and tb once i take it off to clean the IACV.

 

Swapped out the O2 today. Ran a little better, but then again i didnt have time and or a reason to run it. Tomarow we will see what it does on my way to work.

 

ok, here's my thoughts about the iacv. when i took it off it did appear to have some minor carbon build up. i sprayed it with pb blast first and let it sit for a while. then some brake cleaner coupled with some compressed air to clean out all the crap. here's where i have the question. the nut that holds the tension on the valve spring seemed to be adjusted all the way out. this thing didn't want to move at first, but eventually it did budge. i don't think the tool for this is cheap so i took a 1" chisel and ground and notched it until even toyota would be proud. i'm pretty sure that this is why she idles up to 2000+ when cold. i'm going to screw it all the way in and then maybe 1.5-2 full turns out. that seems reasonable since it was about 5 turns out. 1.25 turns seems to keep the valve spring too tight and i do still want some idle up. does anyone know the actual amount of turns from full closed req'd for a base adjustment? if the iacv is not closing because the nut is not adjusted tight enough (or has self anti-adjusted over the part 20 years) then the valve will not seat when the engine warms up and will create a vacuum leak. my air/idle screw on the top of the tb is almost fully closed and i'm sure that this was just compensating for the air passing through the iacv. hopefully i don't have to pull the tb too many times to get this adjustment correct seeing as it's not really accessable while installed. i'm looking for 1100 +/-100 rpm's at warm up. i'll let you know my results.

update-
i tore it all apart and put it back together no problem. $250 for a new one from the stealership. i think not! i screwed it in until it seated and backed it out 3 turns. i've got about 1250 r's now as opposed to the 2100 before. i think that was a vacuum leak for sure. don't be afraid, just watch the little pin that retains the wax. i shot air into the iacv to dry it out and that thing came flying out. there is a notch in the pin that i believe has a retainer clip. mine did not once i found it on the other side of the room. i did put one on though.