Bazookaxxx

Ok I had a motor with a smoked rod bearing.

Pulled motor and switched that block with a known good one I had.

Truck runs. Once I get over a certain rpm the knock code comes up.

I searched all over here and started trying things. This is what I have done so far.

- chased threads with correct tap.
- replaced sensor connector/pigtail.
- moved sensor to engine hook.
- ran new wire from ecu to sensor.

So then I got three other sensors from a friend. All of those were from older motors though. The sensor and pigtail are different looking.

Using a older pigtail I tried all three to no avail.

Now I bought this truck with the bad motor so I'm not sure if this is a new post motor swap problem or not. According to previous owner it did not happen before.

I run 33s and the motor is down on power and eats gas like crazy.

Not fun when needing to get through a bad swamp.

-

This weekend I am going to try high end wire and run a new wire. Also might just get a new sensor. Everyone seems to say they don't go bad but I beat the he'll out of the truck with the bad rod bearing. May e it wrecked it?

Anyone please help me?

Where are the grounds I might have missed hooking up after swap. Have firewall to block, one on plenum and obviously the main ground. Are there more?


Thanks. For ANY input.

TNRabbit

a knock sensor WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY on the engine hook.....???

Bazookaxxx

I stripped the threads out on the block. And even before that when I had it in there it wouldnt work. You have any ideas?

Bazookaxxx

Bump for help

Bazookaxxx

Anything I can add let me know

sb5walker

It is a code 52 you're getting, right? Just checking. The wire to the knock sensor is shielded, meaning it's surrounded by a jacket that is connected to ground. So check that the signal wire is not shorted to ground, which could happen if the wire were pinched, or insulation cracked etc. Disconnect the wire from the sensor (leave the pigtail connected to harness), and pull the connector from the ecu. Then look for continuity between the KNK wire and ground at the ecu harness connector. Check using the E21, E2 and E1 grounds on the connector (I'm not sure to which ground the KNK wire shield is connected to; probably E21 but check 'em all to be sure). There should be no continuity between KNK and any ground wire. Then check resistance between KNK at the connector and the signal wire at the sensor connector - there should be close to zero ohms. If more than, say, 3-4 ohms you have a problem with the KNK wire somewhere in the wire harness or a connector. Obviously you need a long jumper wire to run from the sensor end of the wire back to the ecu end (or vice versa) in order to check for continuity. You can use a jumper cable in a pinch, but that may introduce some ohms if the clamps are not shiny clean. The ECU map is on page EG1-141 of the troubleshooting chapter of the fsm:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/27troubles.pdf

This post has some good info on rebuilding the connector:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...49#post2940349

If you need to run a new KNK wire, the 16 gauge of this wire would be good:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...shieldwire.php

Connect the shield to the E21 ground at the ecu connector and make sure the shield doesn't short to the signal wire (of course).

Oh, and return the sensor back to it's original location in the block. Use a helicoil. You'll get a code if the knock sensor does not ever detect a knock, and that location will make sure it occasionally does.

Good luck!

BigSwole

How did you strip the threads? Any way you could add a helicoil or something like that?

I have a knock sensor off a 94 22re if you'd like a newer one. Have about 6 inches of wire with the correct clip on it as well.

Bazookaxxx

Great info!! That ecu map is going to help alot!

I stripped the threads out when I got mad and he- man tightened it.




Hey do you think a serious rod knock would wreck a knock sensor?

sb5walker

Haha. Well, I doubt it would harm the sensor because it's probably a lower frequency than what the sensor is tuned to. But it's kind of a funny question, I mean, if you had a serious rod knock, would you really be concerned with a sensor? lol.

Bazookaxxx

I swapped engine blocks. Used sensor from bad motor on good one. This motor is Mint.


ALSO CAN ONE OF YOU PLEASE DOWNLOAD THE FSM FOR THE 88 4runner off that site? Ncttora.com/FSM

Its the only one that matches my ecu pin count. I need the 4x4 manual trans ecu pin out.

Just take a screenshot and post it please? My crap iphone won't open the PDF it's too big.

Bazookaxxx

Ok finally got the correct FSM on my phone. Tomorrow I will double Che k my new wand most likely get new shielded wire and the like.

To get a proper heli coil will cost 70$ so I'm trying to avoid that. No to mention the pain it will be to fix in that tight spot.

Will try to post back in morning what I learn. I may just order new sensor. I'm stRting to think this one is poop.

Bazookaxxx

Checked my wire it is spliced correctly. No one I stopped by had a shielded wire though.

Guess I'll use coax. Picking up new sensor Monday as well.

Bazookaxxx

Have sensor just need time to install. Got to change steering pump as well. Might the weekend. Gonna run new wire for sensor also and try to relocate closer to original spot.

Bazookaxxx

Ok. Here's what I've done. I welded a metric 12x1.25 nut as low on the front of the engine hook as possible.

Hand tightened new sensor and hooked up.

FIXED!!!!!

Also replaced power steering so I'm double happy now!

Just FYI I am not using a shielded wire either. Just a thick guage. Works like a charm!

Power seems to be better hopefully mileage is also.


Hope my info here might help someone else.

Thanks everyone !!!

Beaniam

I also had to weld a nut to the block in my 85 celica. Someone swapped in a 84 engine at some point (no knock sensor provision). Has worked for over a year so far.