I have an 87 4runner with a 22re auto combo. The engine starts and runs fine but after it has warmed up to operating temperature it spits and sputters with rpms above 2000, I have been reading old posts about similar problems and I just can't seem to figure this out. I have replaced the fuel filter, new plugs, adjusted the TPS, even swaped in another spare"both read ok on an ohm meter" swaped the knock sensor, coolent temp., and the cold start timer"I think thats what its called, they are right next to one another in the intake" I was checking the ohms on the AFM and it checked out ok according to my manual, but two of the terminals"forgot the names" increase ohms as the AFM opens and it increases all the way to just before it is fully open and then drops when fully open, I checked a few in the junkyard and they read the same way even similiar ohms, so I think its still good. sorry about the long post but I wanted to be descriptive and really wanna get this truck up and running again.

 

Says you changed the plugs...tried the wires? Cap? You could have moisture in there, it happened to me when I had my 22re.

 

going to change them tomorrow. I figured they where ok, since it runs fine till it warms up.

 

there ARE TWO DIFFERNT TEMPATURE SENSORS ON YOUR 22RE ONE IS THE COLLENT TEMP SENDER SWITCH WITCH SIND TEMP READING TO THE ECU OR ENGINE COMPUTER AND THE OTHER IS THE TEMPATURE SENSOR WITCH SEND SIGNALS TO YOUR DASH TO COMPLETLY SEPERATE SENSORS BUT BOTH WORK TO GETHER WITH THE ECU

IF EITHER OF THESE ARE NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY THAN THE ECU BECOMES CONFUSED AND CAN BE SENDING TO MUCH FUEL TO THE FUEL INJECTOR UP SETTING THE BALANCE OF AIR TO FUEL RATIO.

FIND THEM AND REPLACE THEM BOTH
SHOULDNT BE MORE THAN $21 FOR THE COLENT TEMP SENSOR AT YOUR LOCAL aDVANCED AUTO PARTS.

I WORK THERE
TRUST ME LOOK INTO IT
MY FORD EXPLORE DID THE SAME THING

 

I have a few extra sets of sensors, I swaped both of the coolent temp sensors. one on the intake and the other on the thermostat housing. I think there is a short somewhere between the dash and the one on the thermostat, the dash reads about half way on the temp. gauge as soon as I start the engine and stays there.

 

Look at each of your spark plugs under a magnifying glass. A friend of mine had similar issues and foud a cracked porcelain on one of his plugs that would only open enough to cause problems when the engine was hot.

 

will do, I'm going to put a new set of plugs, wires, and cap and rotor on there today.

 

changed the wires/cap&rotor, didn't fix it. I checked the timing when it was warm and it moves back and forth inbetween about 3-7 degrees, should it stay perfectly still or wobble a little like this?

 

pretty stable, but it will move a bit.

what happens if you wiggle the entire distributor? double check the timing. could be off if it happens after reaching temp.

 

Did you verify the throttle is returning to its physical stops at idle after warmup?

The temp sensor that is not being read correctly. Is it possible the ECU sees that incorrect temp?

 

I have 22RE with auto and my engine does this same thing. I have spent alot of $$$$ and time changing parts and sensors and have not found the issue. Here is what I have done-

-New TPS
-New plugs
-new wires
-new cap
-new rotor
-new EGR vavle
-swapped VAF with a known good one
-had all injectors rebuilt
-adjusted vavles

It has even been to the dealer for diagnosis and they were just guessing and adding parts and $$$$ to my bill so it didn't stay there long.

I have found one thing that strangley gets it to run better. If I plug off the top vaccum line coming out of my EGR valve it makes it run ALOT better. It still slightly misses, but it is well enough that I can drive it and not notice any issues. My next step in my troubleshooting process is change all of my vaccum lines and the temp sensors.

 

what would happen if I take all the egr vacumn lines off and cap the two on the throttle body?

 

also, can someone post a pic of how the other vacumn lines are supposed to be? the ones going to the two things on top of the valve cover. VCV???

 

Haven't done enough research to say totally, but I am sure you would never pass an emisions test.

 

This is the diagram according to www.autozone.com.

However I don't see anything on the valve cover...



The 1988 22RE has some stuff on the valve cover though. Does yours look more like this?

 

Sounds like what my mothers 94 V6 was doing.... It turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator.

 

Check out this thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...&highlight=tps

It contains some info about ADJUSTING your TPS that sounds like it might be your problem...

 

If you READ his post and mine we have both done that already......

 

This doesn't show the VCVs. I only have one. If you have two I assume your other one is for the AC system, not sure though. I haven't messed with them too much.

 

what do the vcv's do? I took off all the egr vacumn lines and it still runs the same. I'm not worried about emissions as I live in mississippi. I've adjusted the TPS MANY times even tried moving it higher and lower in the ohm range, "2-8k ohms, I tried 2 all the way to 8, then put it back to the middle about 5k ohms" I unplugged the fuel pressure regulator and the idle goes up some, I read that this raises the fuel pressure. with it unplugged it still jerks and sputters, Its only after its warmed up fully.