justinking060310

Ok first post - newbie yes - idiot no(i like to think anyways)

this is a 94 pickup 22re - i just put in new long block, water pump, thermostat and everything else either was checked out or was replaced. I bought the vehicle non-running if that plays any part.

I searched and read everything about initial startups and timing on this board and others... I have pulled the valve cover and set the timing according to the FSM. both cam marks straight up with #1 cylinder on TDC(valves loose) slide dizzy in with rotor straight up, it rotated 45 degrees toward the front on motor when inserted. 1 of the 4 notches on the shaft lined up with pickup. cap back on. set timing to 5*BTDC at idle with TE1 and E1 jumpered(the idle dropped, which means TPS is working if i understand correctly) idle is at 700.... pull the jumper and timing is at 14*BTDC

the problem - (assuming everything above is correct)

the truck will start and run without problem regardless of whether jumper is in or not. it will idle at 700 with the pin in and 800 with the pin out. now when i turn the throttle very slowly it will rev up to 3500 and then just die(like its out of air) -- if i pull throttle down anything faster than very slow it wants to die(weird thing is it wont die just runs out of juice and will stumble back up when i let off)

now i am missing the part that goes on the VSV on top of the valve cover - can someone tell me the proper name of this thing(its round) here a pic.. i need the thing that attached to the vacuum port on the orange connector.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...060310/vsv.jpg


next step in troubleshooting requires ID of these two things...
not sure at all what this is... i think maybe A/C (but i do not have A/C)
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...yconnector.jpg

i dont know what this is for, but i thought it was a ground
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...eirdground.jpg






If you have made it this far - thank you so much for trying to help me and not calling me a newb and kicking me by the wayside.

Anyways, i need ideas what to do next... i am getting me meter out and going to check the TPS but i think it is working... it seems that it must be a lack or air or fuel (how do i test the fuel portion?) .... and yes the AFM is hooked up by the way


Thanks Guys
Katie

justinking060310

i followed the tps check here:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

TPS check results: (numbers in parents are what it should be)
Test 1 = 754 ohms (470-6100)
Test 2 = open (<2.3k)
Test 3 = open (open/indef)
Test 4 = 4.6k ohm (3.1k - 12.1k)
Test 5 = 5.9k ohm (3.9k - 9.0k)

So test 2 failed, i think. Can anyone help me decipher these results

Another note, i can hear the fuel pump operating when the ignition is in the on position, is it normal to be able to hear it? i did drop the tank and empty old fuel....

how do i check fuel pressure on a 22re? wish there was a shrader valve.

Katie

toyaholic

if you have a manual, cool, if not, here is a link http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
if you are descent with a multimeter use the troubleshooting in the efi section in the manual and probe the computer. seems like a pain but it beat chasing an elusive problem for me. when i was finished rebuilding my 22re i had a similar problem and the troubleshooting pointed me right to my problem, a bad afm, with a bad voltage reading. sounds like afm or tps to me, but i am no pro.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Check the Air Flow Meter (it controls the fuel pump):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

And try the fuel pump test jumper for a quick check:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

YodaLift94

if you dont have a vacuum line hooked up correctly that could be a problem too.....also double check where you took you readings get a true wiring diagram so you know what is what and which test actually failed. let me know what test failed test 2 doesnt help much...check into those two things and get back and we will go from there

justinking060310

test 1 is VTA - E2
test 2 is IDL-E2
test 3 is IDL-E2
test 4 is VTA-e2
test 5 is VCC-e2

i am going out to work on the 2 tests by 4crawler

I tried going to test the connections at the ECM but my probes are 2 big 2 fit the holes

thanks for all your help
katie

justinking060310

AFM test as per
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

assuming the fender side of the AFR is the FC side of the pinout - i have
e2-VS = 491 (20-400)
e2-VC = 182 (100-300)
e2-VB = 283 (200-400)
e2-THA= 1528 @ 65* (correct as per table)
e1-FC = has continuity

so the first test (e2-VS) is out by just a little bit -- this should mean that the AFM is acceptable if i am not mistaken.

out to check fuel pump:
Katie

justinking060310

ok, fuel pump trick makes my idle steady at 2000 and when i slowly get on the gas it will go to 2500 and give up.... if i hit the throttle hard it just drops to no rpms until I back off and it comes back up to 2000

as far as the post earlier about vacuum lines, i solidly believe that i have them correct as i follow the FSM... i have double checked them a couple times now. just a pondering - the hose from the bottom of the canister on the firewall just goes to atmosphere, right? if that is supposed to connect somewhere i need to know where.

when i probe the ECM connections, do i unplug and test them or leave them connected and test them?

katie

toyaholic

leave the plug in and probe from behind the plug. the fsm outlines the procedure pretty well.

justinking060310

might be why i was having problems - doh!

will try that again after i visit radio shack

thanks

justinking060310

ok, i tested all of the MFI voltages at the ECM as per the FSM and everything falls in range

does anyone think any of the above pictures have anything to do with it?

could this be related to a cold start(injector or switch) or a vacuum leak? I capped the vacuum fitting that i have pictured above on the top of the valve cover to see if it would help. i can not figure out where to find or what to call that part.

any other suggestions?
katie

toyaholic

my vsv is capped where you are talking about. the fsm shows it that way as well.

justinking060310

i checked the following and everything is per the FSM:

-vacuum lines
-VSV(otherwise know in the haynes manual as the High Temp Line Pressure Up System) on drivers side of valve cover works correctly
-check valve on above VSV valve is good
-cold start injector
-cold start switch
-fuel cut RPM appears to work correctly

I put a stethoscope on the fuel pressure reg and it pulses correctly at idle; however, when you turn the throttle it gaps the pulse out ... The fuel filter is new by the way - should i look at the regulator or the pump next?

anybody made a fuel pressure gauge with a banjo to plug in at the cold start injector location?

would the dashpot under the throttle have any effect on this choking problem?

katie

justinking060310

i checked the resistance in the spark plug wires -- all read approx 760 ohms

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Dashpot serves to slow the closing of the throttle to prevent backfiring/reduce emissions:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot

I have heard of folks cobbling together the needed parts from NAPA for a CS injector fuel pressure tester. I drilled and tapped the end of my 22RE fuel injector rail and screwed in a fuel pressure sender and ran that toa gauge on the dash.

justinking060310

ok, it is the AFM - i took it apart and the flapper is trashed so i sprayed some penetrating oil in there and well, it got in the electrical part and is done...

if i hold the afm wide open the truck runs great thou, so that is the problem, thanks for all the input... As a not - if your AFM checks out on the meter it can still be broken

toyaholic

the key is that the troubleshooting check has values for closed and wide open. i see plenty of used ones on here and on ebay for pretty cheap. glad you figured it out.