You could put a strong magnet near the drain plug, and next oil drain see if it comes out.

 

Ok good idea. I'll put it all back together and see if it comes out with the first oil change. I'm gonna put fresh oil in it, start it for the first time, let it get warm, then change the oil to get all the water and hopefully those 2 teeth out.

Got a little bit done last night. Cleaned the block surface some more and installed the new intake / exhaust studs into the new head, and replaced the fuel filter. (What a bitch that was, even with it all apart). The original one, so 250k miles later i guess it was due hahaha. The head is ready to go on. Will place the head tonight, along with rocker arm assy and adjust the valves. Only a few days till she's running!

 

Best feelin ever is when its done and it starts. ^5

 

More progress! Big night tonight.. the head is on, everything is torqued to spec, including the dreaded crankshaft pulley bolt. Lot's of shiny parts on this old truck now! It's all downhill from here... I hope...











Only sleepin' in the garage for a few more nights!



Around here, if you drive a Yota, Hurst shift handles are a must. Plus I just like them and got them for my birthday so why not....

 

wowee.

good progress man.

 

Thanks man. I have the next to days off so I'm determined to get it finished, stay tuned for updates.

I also check your thread just about everyday, I'm looking forward to some progress when the weather gets better for ya.

 

Thanks.

Getting the itch again.

Hopefully will get the taxes done and I will see what's left. Hopefully a nice chunk, but I'm trying to be conservativey optimistic.

definitely post up your progress....I will be using your's for re-assembly.

 

Try doing this job at -25C ;( My hands have blisters from being cold burned.

I'm trying to figure out the few vacume lines left on this job.
Recomendations for anyone else doing this job....OEM headgasket, parts are so cheap on the net that there's no reason not to replace the wat/oil pump and t-chain, I got the injectors cleaned as well. I ended upsizing the valves and a small Comp cam.
If my engine had overheated like that- I would have reringed it and bottle brushed the cylinders- too big a job to be disappointed.

 

ITS ALIVE!!!!


.... Kinda.... put it all back together, and it runs great, for about 2 seconds, then drops down to about 500rpm, then sputters and dies. :/

I've played with the timing quite a bit, seems to about the same whether i am at 5DBTDC or 0DBTDC.

Any suggestions? Dies sooner without the AFM or CSI plugs unplugged.

There is one thing.... The "Secret allen head bolt" that is one of the intake mani bolts, would line up and thread in on my new head, so In a rage I said EFF IT and went on without it, thinking it wouldn't even cause a problem.... but now that I think about it, could that 1 little bolt cause an air leak and create the problem I am having? I hope not....


HELP!

 

if you are talking about the bolt below the coolant outlet on the lower intake...very necessary. take the upper plenum back off, ez, and give 'er another go. something for hind sight is to hand thread all the bolts in before tightening them down. to step back a page or so, i would have had the head you took off pressure tested before buying a new one. but, since you have such an awesome gf, teds heads are great. i'm stopping by engnbldr to pick up a 268 tomorrow. back on topic, it sounds like a vac leak. did you change the fuel filter? egr bolts tight? recheck your vac lines. yadda yadda good luck.

 

Thanks for the response! I suppose I'll have to pull that plenum off and try to get that damn bolt in there. Is the gasket going from the intake to the plenum going to be garbage, or can I re-use it? And yes, I changed the fuel filter, egr bolts are tight with new gaskets. Is there a way to check for air leaks? I heard of some people spraying WD-40 around the manifold and if it starts to run better its an air leak. Would that work for my situation? Also, I don't smell fuel after cranking and cranking. Seems almost like it's starting off the CSI and then starving for fuel...

 

I havent heard wd-40, but starter fluid or a little propane torch works to.

 

I'll get some starting fluid and try that. I just found a ground wire that I forgot to reattach, on the driver side that comes out of the loom near the alternator, I'll hook that up too and see if anything changes, i doubt it but it's worth a try. Also, I'll jumper the fuel pump just to rule out the AFM malfunctioning.

Man I just wanna get this thing running. Here's some pics. I'll get a video of it starting and failing soon.











So intake plenum gasket, okay to reuse, or no?

 

I feel your pain, I've been waiting for over a week for a lower rad hose I replaced everything for the hoses as well. I had a ported intake I wanted to use so I cut a 1in slot between the runners- that harness is a b** so I ended up bolting the lower runners/EGR and installing the head as a unit- a bit of a bear to place for sure.

 

Man I am soo depressed.

Found out why it wasn't starting, its the AFM. Unplugged it, jumpered the fuel pump, and it ran!

So I let it run a while and the whole time it was puffing white smoke. So after about 10 mins I shut it off, and pull the dipstick... chocolate milk. I have no clue what I did wrong or why the coolant and oil is mixing worse than before.


I am about ready to just hand it over to my mechanic. I am sick to my stomach right now and I almost feel like crying.

What should I do? Try and re-torque the headbolts and see if it fixes it?

 

ouch.
waiting for qualified guys to answer.
i'm sure you feel defeated, and i'm nervous as all hell to do this to my truck, but you could do this AGAIN in 1/2 the time of the 1st time.
without going back and reading all the posts, did you clean the bolt holes on the block? if not, maybe you are getting a false reading for torque.
keep me/us posted and maybe just walk away and regroup with a clear head to come back to it.

 

I saw another post today about a 'vanilla milkshake' I wonder what is going wrong.....one thing I made sure of- everything has to be surgically clean- I saw your taps- these are incorrect for thread chasing- it's a different tool and I think it will go further into the hole as it has a 'flat' tip- not tapered as the taps are- and was the bottoms of the holes scraped clean of debris as well so the bolt will not bottom out in gunk. I ended up using arp studs and the applied torgue is 90 ft-lbs not the bolt torque of 58 ft-lbs. Was the torque applied in 3 equal steps? Other than that how did the front plate go- there is an area where oil and water can mix- torque specific as well.

 

If it wasn't a new head I would have knee-jerked and said the head was probably warped......I'm nervous as anything about getting those holes cleaned out too....post up what you are talking about to use to clean them out.

 

I cleaned my head bolt holes with brake clean, an old bolt (cleaned) and a lot of compressed air. You need these holes to be pretty much spotless.

 

Update!

did 2 more oil flushes, and the oil is coming out clean, and no more white smoke once its warmed up! Comes up to operating temp and stays there. No overheating, no external leaks, clean oil, coolant level steady.... looks like I'm ok!

So relieved! Thanks for all your help everyone.