22RE - Fuel Pump
11-26-2010, 12:26 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 632
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
22RE - Fuel Pump
I am curious to what the symptoms of a failing fuel pump will be? Currently it is running fine. BUT It is very loud. I believe the check valve is non-functional on it because i lose fuel pressure after sitting. I pulled the access cover in my 4runner to look at it. Everything looks "factory". The truck has + 200k miles. When i turned the pump on today to listen to it with the access cover off i can hear the motor is not a consistent buzz, but it sounds like it is going up and down on RPMs. Not drastically but enough i could tell. What I am not sure about is, when you replace the fuel pump, do you get a new top for it with lines and such, or is it just something that is repalced inside the tank, and not noticable from the outside? I ask cause I am wondering if the pump was changed out by the previous owner and that is why the pump is loud. Are these symptoms of a failing fuel pump?
thanks
thanks
11-26-2010, 12:56 PM
#2
The pump is just the fuel pump with the electrical connections and if your lucky a new sock.
The fuel pump bracket is sold by it`s self which if you live in the Salt Belt you will need also . because you will most likely break the lines trying to get the lines off.
Also if you buy a used one near you it won`t be in much better shape.
If you are hearing the pump run your gas tank must be quite low these pumps live much longer if you keep them in the liquid.
They use the liquid to keep cool.
The fuel pump bracket is sold by it`s self which if you live in the Salt Belt you will need also . because you will most likely break the lines trying to get the lines off.
Also if you buy a used one near you it won`t be in much better shape.
If you are hearing the pump run your gas tank must be quite low these pumps live much longer if you keep them in the liquid.
They use the liquid to keep cool.
11-26-2010, 03:01 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 632
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK. Thanks. IT looks like I would need a new mount. The line going to the rubber fuel line looks to have been stripped. So either somebody tried to get to the pump, or did change the pump. I will fill it with fuel and see if it quiets down. I probably will just save up for the new pump. I am getting tired of sitting waiting for the fuel lines to pressurize before i start it. I geuss I am a bit impatient 
thanks!
thanks!
12-28-2010, 07:43 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tobermorey, Ontario
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how long do u have to sit in order to get the the lines full of fuel?
I ask only becasue i have the same prob...
My truck won't start...just keeps crankin....
how do we test the fuel pump? there is a way to do it in the diagnostics box under the hood but i can't find the instructions.
I ask only becasue i have the same prob...
My truck won't start...just keeps crankin....
how do we test the fuel pump? there is a way to do it in the diagnostics box under the hood but i can't find the instructions.
12-28-2010, 10:14 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: omaha, ne
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
when you jump B+ and Fp at the Datalink and place the ignition in the run (on)position you are connecting the 12 vdc directly from 15 A ignition fuse, through the EFI main relay to the fuel pump. The circuit opening relay and the AFM are no longer in the circuit with this jumper in place.
Other things that you could check are the ignition fuse, the EFI fuse, the EFI main relay and the wiring (broken wire in the harness or a bad ground.) The first and easiest check are the two fuses. Why two fuses? The coil side of the EFI relay gets it's power from the 7.5 A ignition fuse. The contact side of the EFI relay is fed from the 15 A EFI fuse. If either of these fuses are blown your EFI will not function. If one of these are blown, you first have to solve that problem. It's always a good idea to check the fuse integrity with a ohmmeter. I've seen fuses that were blown, but the link inside looked to be intact. If the fuses are ok then the next check is to unplug the fuel pump harness from the body harness at the tank. With +B and Fp jumpered at the check connector turn the key to the run position. Take a dc voltmeter and measure the voltage between the blue wire (Fp) and the white/black wire (ground) at the body harness connector that you just unpluged. If you measure 12vdc between these wires then the circuit components mentioned above are ok and you turn your focus to the fuel pump.
The resistance of the fuel pump should be around 37 ohms. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the fuel pump wires going into the tank, if you don't read somewhere close to this (20-40), but read infinity or overload then your pump probably has a bad segment (an open) on the armature. Measure from each wire going to fuel pump to a chassis ground with your ohmmeter. If you get a reading and not infinity (analog) or overload (digital) then your pump (Motor) probably has a short.
If you didn't measure 12vdc at the body harness connector then you have to verify the circuit back to the source. First verify your ground circuit. With the voltmeter on ohms check between the white/black wire to a good chassis ground, your reading should be close to zero ohms. If this checks out then your problem is on the FP side. With an ohmmeter measure the resistance of the Blue (Fp) from the check connector to the harness connector at the tank, it should be zero ohms. If ok, remove the jumper and check for 12vdc from +B at the check connector to ground. If you get 12vdc here then the EFI relay and the wiring up to this connector are ok. If you don't measure 12vdc then you will have to do ohm checks on the wiring and test the EFI relay.
Other things that you could check are the ignition fuse, the EFI fuse, the EFI main relay and the wiring (broken wire in the harness or a bad ground.) The first and easiest check are the two fuses. Why two fuses? The coil side of the EFI relay gets it's power from the 7.5 A ignition fuse. The contact side of the EFI relay is fed from the 15 A EFI fuse. If either of these fuses are blown your EFI will not function. If one of these are blown, you first have to solve that problem. It's always a good idea to check the fuse integrity with a ohmmeter. I've seen fuses that were blown, but the link inside looked to be intact. If the fuses are ok then the next check is to unplug the fuel pump harness from the body harness at the tank. With +B and Fp jumpered at the check connector turn the key to the run position. Take a dc voltmeter and measure the voltage between the blue wire (Fp) and the white/black wire (ground) at the body harness connector that you just unpluged. If you measure 12vdc between these wires then the circuit components mentioned above are ok and you turn your focus to the fuel pump.
The resistance of the fuel pump should be around 37 ohms. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the fuel pump wires going into the tank, if you don't read somewhere close to this (20-40), but read infinity or overload then your pump probably has a bad segment (an open) on the armature. Measure from each wire going to fuel pump to a chassis ground with your ohmmeter. If you get a reading and not infinity (analog) or overload (digital) then your pump (Motor) probably has a short.
If you didn't measure 12vdc at the body harness connector then you have to verify the circuit back to the source. First verify your ground circuit. With the voltmeter on ohms check between the white/black wire to a good chassis ground, your reading should be close to zero ohms. If this checks out then your problem is on the FP side. With an ohmmeter measure the resistance of the Blue (Fp) from the check connector to the harness connector at the tank, it should be zero ohms. If ok, remove the jumper and check for 12vdc from +B at the check connector to ground. If you get 12vdc here then the EFI relay and the wiring up to this connector are ok. If you don't measure 12vdc then you will have to do ohm checks on the wiring and test the EFI relay.
12-28-2010, 01:04 PM
#7
Registered User
myk.grimm, it may be because you are new to this forum or it may be a complete oversite, but when you copy someone else's post on a reply you put it in as a quote or you refer to the original post via a link.
Below is an example of how do do this in the future.
Thanks
Hadmatt54
Below is an example of how do do this in the future.
Thanks
Hadmatt54
06-20-2010, 06:29 PM #6 (permalink)
Hadmatt54
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 191
In a 91 when you jumper +B and Fp at the check connector and place the ignition in the run (on)position you are connecting the 12 vdc directly from 15 A ignition fuse, through the EFI main relay to the fuel pump. The circuit opening relay and the AFM are no longer in the circuit with this jumper in place.
Other things that you could check are the ignition fuse, the EFI fuse, the EFI main relay and the wiring (broken wire in the harness or a bad ground.) The first and easiest check are the two fuses. Why two fuses? The coil side of the EFI relay gets it's power from the 7.5 A ignition fuse. The contact side of the EFI relay is fed from the 15 A EFI fuse. If either of these fuses are blown your EFI will not function. If one of these are blown, you first have to solve that problem. It's always a good idea to check the fuse integrity with a ohmmeter. I've seen fuses that were blown, but the link inside looked to be intact. If the fuses are ok then the next check is to unplug the fuel pump harness from the body harness at the tank. With +B and Fp jumpered at the check connector turn the key to the run position. Take a dc voltmeter and measure the voltage between the blue wire (Fp) and the white/black wire (ground) at the body harness connector that you just unpluged. If you measure 12vdc between these wires then the circuit components mentioned above are ok and you turn your focus to the fuel pump.
The resistance of the fuel pump should be around 37 ohms. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the fuel pump wires going into the tank, if you don't read somewhere close to this (20-40), but read infinity or overload then your pump probably has a bad segment (an open) on the armature. Measure from each wire going to fuel pump to a chassis ground with your ohmmeter. If you get a reading and not infinity (analog) or overload (digital) then your pump (Motor) probably has a short.
If you didn't measure 12vdc at the body harness connector then you have to verify the circuit back to the source. First verify your ground circuit. With the voltmeter on ohms check between the white/black wire to a good chassis ground, your reading should be close to zero ohms. If this checks out then your problem is on the FP side. With an ohmmeter measure the resistance of the Blue (Fp) from the check connector to the harness connector at the tank, it should be zero ohms. If ok, remove the jumper and check for 12vdc from +B at the check connector to ground. If you get 12vdc here then the EFI relay and the wiring up to this connector are ok. If you don't measure 12vdc then you will have to do ohm checks on the wiring and test the EFI relay.
Get the picture...test the full circuit first, if not okay work your way back to the source testing components and wiring as you go.
Good Luck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Hadmatt54; 06-20-2010 at 06:33 PM.
Hadmatt54
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 191
In a 91 when you jumper +B and Fp at the check connector and place the ignition in the run (on)position you are connecting the 12 vdc directly from 15 A ignition fuse, through the EFI main relay to the fuel pump. The circuit opening relay and the AFM are no longer in the circuit with this jumper in place.
Other things that you could check are the ignition fuse, the EFI fuse, the EFI main relay and the wiring (broken wire in the harness or a bad ground.) The first and easiest check are the two fuses. Why two fuses? The coil side of the EFI relay gets it's power from the 7.5 A ignition fuse. The contact side of the EFI relay is fed from the 15 A EFI fuse. If either of these fuses are blown your EFI will not function. If one of these are blown, you first have to solve that problem. It's always a good idea to check the fuse integrity with a ohmmeter. I've seen fuses that were blown, but the link inside looked to be intact. If the fuses are ok then the next check is to unplug the fuel pump harness from the body harness at the tank. With +B and Fp jumpered at the check connector turn the key to the run position. Take a dc voltmeter and measure the voltage between the blue wire (Fp) and the white/black wire (ground) at the body harness connector that you just unpluged. If you measure 12vdc between these wires then the circuit components mentioned above are ok and you turn your focus to the fuel pump.
The resistance of the fuel pump should be around 37 ohms. Connect the ohmmeter leads to the fuel pump wires going into the tank, if you don't read somewhere close to this (20-40), but read infinity or overload then your pump probably has a bad segment (an open) on the armature. Measure from each wire going to fuel pump to a chassis ground with your ohmmeter. If you get a reading and not infinity (analog) or overload (digital) then your pump (Motor) probably has a short.
If you didn't measure 12vdc at the body harness connector then you have to verify the circuit back to the source. First verify your ground circuit. With the voltmeter on ohms check between the white/black wire to a good chassis ground, your reading should be close to zero ohms. If this checks out then your problem is on the FP side. With an ohmmeter measure the resistance of the Blue (Fp) from the check connector to the harness connector at the tank, it should be zero ohms. If ok, remove the jumper and check for 12vdc from +B at the check connector to ground. If you get 12vdc here then the EFI relay and the wiring up to this connector are ok. If you don't measure 12vdc then you will have to do ohm checks on the wiring and test the EFI relay.
Get the picture...test the full circuit first, if not okay work your way back to the source testing components and wiring as you go.
Good Luck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Hadmatt54; 06-20-2010 at 06:33 PM.
Last edited by Hadmatt54; 12-28-2010 at 01:06 PM.
Trending Topics
12-29-2010, 07:15 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tobermorey, Ontario
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you guys are great..thanks for the help...i will go out today and try all that(assumiung the test for a 91 is the same for my 87")....yesterday i took off my access panel above the fuel pump under the rear passenger seat and to my surprise i found the connections to the fuel pump bracket are completely rusted and corroded!!! yikes! so i will fix the lines first. I'm gonna take a picture and show you guys how close i was to serious fuel leak!!!
Last edited by deejaysterling; 12-29-2010 at 07:50 AM.
12-29-2010, 08:04 AM
#11
Registered User
If you need a pump, autohausaz and rockauto both sell denso pump kits with the sock and all the little connection parts for pretty cheap. Some pumps are cheaper from one vendor, some the other.
The bracket you'll need to get from a dealer, online discount dealer listing here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...05#post3015905
That leaves one part: the rubber base that goes between the bottom of the pump and the bracket. That has to come from the dealer, too, and it's expensive, for what it is. Maybe you can reuse your old one.
The bracket you'll need to get from a dealer, online discount dealer listing here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...05#post3015905
That leaves one part: the rubber base that goes between the bottom of the pump and the bracket. That has to come from the dealer, too, and it's expensive, for what it is. Maybe you can reuse your old one.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GreatLakesGuy
The Classifieds GraveYard
8
09-04-2015 09:27 AM
TURBOrunnerNM
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
4
07-22-2015 11:01 AM
