22re fires, runs for 3 seconds then dies...
#21
So went to autozone just to be sure and got a new circuit opening relay, same problem. So I popped the computer housing open and there was a bit of salt residue on this one terminal and what looked like a burn mark. So I'm thinking I need a new computer. The pump kicked on web the flapper on the VAM is pushed open so I'm thinking this is my last option. Now to only find a computer...
#26
So I put a new (used from a junk yard) AFM on my truck. It did the same thing started then died. Checked the air hoses and they were loose. Tightened them and got it to run. When i tried to put the air box lid on it died. My rubber hose going into the intake was cracked and when i would pull the half inch to get the lid on it would separate the cracks just enough and kill it. The only difference in our problems is that i could keep mine running by giving it gas but it wouldnt stay running if i didnt gas it. Im stumped on your situation also. Check all your air hoses and make sure they are tight and leak free. Hopefully that will help. Good luck.
#27
i had a similar problem, replaced computer, relays, fuses, fuel pump, all sorts of fun stuff. Scratched my head for months while it sat in my garage. Bad gas was the culprit, it had about 50/50 water. ran for a few seconds then died. Flushed the tank (jumped pump) and pulled a gas line emptyed into a bucket, filled with new gas, started right up after that.
#28
there is a drain plug for the fuel tank, it is on the bottom. drain tank, then change the fuel filter, it is located under the intake manifold bolted to the block.i would do this first,#1 might be cheap fix. #2 my truck did same thing , changed fuel filter ran like new again. my old filter must have wieght 10 lbs. bad fuel+ clogged filter = no go.
#31
i would test the fuel pressure. it costs nothing with a borrowed gauge from Autozone. the gauge has a special banjo bolt that essentially replaces the banjo bolt for the cold start injector. the gauge plugs in on the end of this special banjo bolt.
jumper the fuel pump with the key on and rule that out.
One more thing: even before checking the fuel pressure.. ..jumper the fuel pump in the engine and turn the truck on and see if it'll keep running.
jumper the fuel pump with the key on and rule that out.
One more thing: even before checking the fuel pressure.. ..jumper the fuel pump in the engine and turn the truck on and see if it'll keep running.
Last edited by rpij137g; Apr 6, 2011 at 03:01 PM.
#38
Just for silly, hold the in the start position and see if it stays running. it sounds like the missing ballast resistor of the 1960's.
It might be the fuel pump cutting out on you.
Just for testing purposes you can hot wire the pump to a switched source.
It might be the fuel pump cutting out on you.
Just for testing purposes you can hot wire the pump to a switched source.
#39
Might check for any air leaks in the intake tubing. Especially in the rubber bellows sections, look for small cracks in the folds. May need to take off those parts and hold them up to a light and flex the rubber to check. That will cause a problem like that.
#40
I spent the last three days trying to trace the same problem, for me it was a broken wire from the Igniter to the ECU, the IGf lead broke somewhere around the intake manifold, probably from when i had to lay the harness over the fender to pull the engine for its rebuild.
Re-spliced the wire and everything seems to be running great now.
Re-spliced the wire and everything seems to be running great now.




