quiggs12

I am having a issue with getting the timing right on my 88 pickup 22RE. I have a factory service manual, I have a Haynes manual, and I have the Idiot’s guide to keeping your Toyota pickup alive book so I am well aware of the procedure. However, I am still having an issue.
I used a paperclip to short out the T and E₁ terminals on the check connector to short out the ESA as required. However, it doesn’t seem to work correctly (as far as I can tell). The timing should be at 5⁰ BTDC when the ESA is shorted out. Then it is supposed to end up somewhere between 10-14⁰ once the paperclip is removed. However, it runs like crap when I try to put it at 5⁰ and it doesn’t change at all when I remove the paperclip. I tried just putting it somewhere in the 10-14⁰ range without the attempting to short the ESA but that doesn’t seem to work overly well either.
My timing chain is on correctly; my distributor was installed correctly and worked in a different truck without issues… What could be my issue? Why does it seem like my attempt to short the ESA seems like it was a failure? Thanks

MudHippy

First, the 22RE has the VAST(Variable Advance Spark Timing), not ESA(Electronic Spark Advance), system. But that's not important, as there's little difference between the two. And nothing significant enough to have any bearing on your issue.

So, are you sure when you jump the check connectors that the ECU is going into test mode? Meaning does the CEL flash steady(no codes)? Or is it possibly displaying any codes when you do that? Like say code 51? Code 51 will need to be corrected before you can set the base ignition timing as prescribed. Are you certain that the idle speed is as required for the procedure?

Other tips on setting base ignition timing can be found here:
http://autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf

quiggs12

I am not sure what the difference is between VAST and ESA however, I am sure that my 1988 Toyota FSM clearly describes the 22R-E and 22R-TE having Electronic Spark Advance.

I am not see any codes when I jump the two terminals that I described... Should I? Would it be advantageous to me to just unplug the negative battery terminal before hand to ensure any stored codes would be cleared? I am going to look into the site you linked for me. Thanks for responding! Let me know if any additional info can be provided to help you help me. Thanks!

quiggs12

I am getting 5 flashes followed by 11 flashes... Thoughts?

MudHippy

O.k., ESA or VAST. If you read through the link provided on page 6 it clearly states " The VAST system is only used on the 2S-E, 22R-E, 22R-TE, 4Y-E, and 4A-GE engines.". The difference between them is inconsequential in determining what would be the cause of the issue you're experiencing.

It would be critical in diagnosing a condition where the timing was locked at initial timing regardles of engine speed or load. As is described on page 14. That would be easy to determine by observing the timing mark, with the timing light, as you raise the idle rpm manually. If it doesn't advance as it should based on rpm, then in diagnosing how to resolve that, it would be important to know the the system you're dealing with is the VAST as apposed the ESA. Other than that particular condition, which it doesn't sound like exists, the difference means nothing as far as adjusting the initial/base timing. Both require the exact same procedure. That procedure is described in finer detail than the FSM provides on page 15 of that same article.

On the codes, or lack there of, NO you shouldn't have any. That's good to know, and rules out the possibility of code 51 as the cause for the initial/base ignition timing being unchanged by jumping the check connectors. So we know that's not it. However, you never said whether or not you're sure of the idle rpm speed being correct during the initial/base timing adjustment. Are you positive that's where it should be? Are you letting the engine rpm to stabilize(step 3 on page 15)after jumping the check connectors before making any adjustments?


Alright then nevermind, there are code(s). Since there's are no code 5, and 11 flashes doesn't equate to a code period, are you sure it's not 5 then 1? As in code 51? That's going to make a HUGE difference in diagnosing the issue.

There are no single digit codes for an 88 22R-E, only for the 22R-TE. So we can definitively rule out a code 5 in this instance. And since 11 flashes isn't what code 11 is, then we can rule that out too. Code 11 is represented by 1 flash followed shortly by 1 more flash. 1 flash and 1 flash = code 11.

quiggs12

You are right! I forgot that the ECU in the truck is actually from an 87 (motor replacement). I will have to explore that further... Your thoughts??? Thanks

quiggs12

I screwed up my explaination forgetting that the motor I have is a year older than the truck (at least judging by the numbers on the ECU) Maybe the previous owner put the wrong ECU in it (doubtful I would think) however, how would I tell???

Yes I am sure it is 5 flashes and then 11... I am also sure I don't know what I am doing apparently... Thanks for pointing that out too!

MudHippy

Alrighty then! Now we're getting somewhere.

Code 11 on an 87 22R-E IS 11 flashes, and is nearly the exact same thing as code 51 on later models(code 51 can also be triggered by the A/C switch being ON during test mode is the only difference). So there you are then. What you need to do to be able to set the base/initial timing is adjust the TPS(most likely cause for code 11/51)IDL contact and try again. If that doesn't work then the next in line is the neutral start switch.

Code 5 would be an O2 sensor code, but won't affect the base/initial timing adjustment.

BTW, he obviously installed the correct ECU. Or you wouldn't be getting codes specific to an 87.

Moonfish

I don't know anything about the different ecus. But, if your tps isn't set right, the diagnostic mode don't work. Maybe that's in your literature. I don't know.

MudHippy

BS! It will too work! How do you think you get the code telling you it's not adjusted correctly?