22RE cranks but won't start
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
22RE cranks but won't start
I suspect someone might have intentionally done something to cause this. It cranks but won't fire. Is there anything that could be done without being able to open the hood? The last time I drove my vehicle, it was perfectly fine. Someone got pissed off at me while driving and followed me to my house. They didn't do or say anything at the time, but saw where I live. Now my truck won't start. Coincidence perhaps, but I'm suspicious. Any ideas?
#2
Registered User
Fuel Pump wires cut?
Honestly, I would start trying to diagnose the no start issue as if this happened on its own. If there was foul play, you will find it through regular diagnosis.
You can do a quick visual inspection, and then if nothing turns up, jump the Fp and+B terminals in the Diagnostic Connector and turn the key to On. Listen for the fuel pump.
Honestly, I would start trying to diagnose the no start issue as if this happened on its own. If there was foul play, you will find it through regular diagnosis.
You can do a quick visual inspection, and then if nothing turns up, jump the Fp and+B terminals in the Diagnostic Connector and turn the key to On. Listen for the fuel pump.
#3
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Thread Starter
How obvious should the sound of the fuel pump be? With the jumper wire and me beside the rear-passenger tire, I don't hear anything at all.
Last edited by Brendan; 12-06-2019 at 10:45 AM.
#4
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I can hear mine (in the garage) while standing at the diagnostic connector. Remember, the jumper works with key-on.
So try the second step. Replace the fuel return line from the FPR with a piece of 6mm clear vinyl to a suitable container. With the jumper in and key on, I get about 1/2 liter/min. If you get nothing, then your injectors are almost certainly not getting fuel. You could have a completely blocked fuel line, but with no discernible sound my bet is a dead fuel pump.
But not so fast; is the pump open, shorted, disconnected? With key-off, measure resistance to ground at the FP connector. You should be measuring through the pump windings, which will be very low. (1-5 ohms) You can't distinguish a short here, but if you get very high ohms (anything over 20 ohms) you have an open pump or a disconnected/broken wire. If it were me, I'd try to trace the wire from the engine compartment back looking for obvious damage, before I tackled removing the pump.
So try the second step. Replace the fuel return line from the FPR with a piece of 6mm clear vinyl to a suitable container. With the jumper in and key on, I get about 1/2 liter/min. If you get nothing, then your injectors are almost certainly not getting fuel. You could have a completely blocked fuel line, but with no discernible sound my bet is a dead fuel pump.
But not so fast; is the pump open, shorted, disconnected? With key-off, measure resistance to ground at the FP connector. You should be measuring through the pump windings, which will be very low. (1-5 ohms) You can't distinguish a short here, but if you get very high ohms (anything over 20 ohms) you have an open pump or a disconnected/broken wire. If it were me, I'd try to trace the wire from the engine compartment back looking for obvious damage, before I tackled removing the pump.
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old87yota (12-06-2019)
#5
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Fuel pump was the problem. I'm a bit relieved that it wasn't someone sabotaging me. I did get even more suspicious though as a few nights later, someone rang my doorbell at 3:30am and ran off.
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old87yota (12-11-2019)
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