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22re coolant "pipe" question

Old Sep 7, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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22re coolant "pipe" question

1993 22RE 2WD STD

Buttoning up my 22re after a head rebuild and new headgasket. When filling the cooling system up, I noticed a leak, or "pour" coming from the metal coolant line on the bottom of the lower intake that wraps around the back of the head and to the heater valve, I believe.

I need to know..

-Is there a gasket for this pipe in addition to the copper washer I have? If yes, where can I find one.
-Do i need to use RTV?
-If I'm able to thread the bolts by hand, shouldn't it snug up? (I'm basically concerned that it's not lining up properly because I put the pipe on after I had the head on)

-Any info, pics, tips, tricks etc would be thoroughly appreciated.

Just FYI, I have EVERYTHING together now, so I'm trying to avoid pulling the intake manifold.

Thank you.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

If you have the wrong bolts in there

To long they will tighten but the pipe will still be loose enough to leak.

RTV is ok but don`t over do it
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 02:58 AM
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if this is what i'm thinking (and i will search for my pics.......and you should post a pic too)...i had no gasket for there in my kit. was told there is an "O"-ring.....did not have one of those either,just the rotted remains of one still there. i did use RTV there and the 2 pieces have to line up exactly or the bolts would not thread.....if your's are threading, you either have it perfect, or stripped. assuming you have your's perfectly lined up, the RTV s what i would use....3,000 miles later and no leak **knocks on wood table*
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 03:03 AM
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see if this post helps you out. otherwise, in m SIG, pick thread (B) and see if there is anything there you need.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51463790
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 04:16 AM
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yes it's an o-ring, the 22r carbed motor is similar. I replaced my o-ring which was not supplied by the kit as well with one from NAPA. I just went into the store with the pipe in hand and found one that worked. My old one was so far deteriorated it wasn't even funny.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
yes it's an o-ring, the 22r carbed motor is similar. I replaced my o-ring which was not supplied by the kit as well with one from NAPA. I just went into the store with the pipe in hand and found one that worked. My old one was so far deteriorated it wasn't even funny.
When you say "o-ring" are you referring in addition to the copper washer that fits into the recess in the intake manifold or instead of the copper washer?

Thanks for the info guys...I may end up just pulling the intake so I can really get a look at what's going on...everything looks nice and snug but it doesn't feel flush when I reach behing the fitting...if that makes any sense. I'm simply filling up the coolant system and it start's to pour out...so I'm thinking something must be seriously wrong...

I'll try to snap a pic of what I'm talking about tonight..


Thanks for the info guys!
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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i never saw a copper washer
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
i never saw a copper washer

It sits inside a recess in the intake manifold...it might have just not fallen out for you.

I'm going to try and get pictures up...
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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Figured it out....Because I work 65+hours a week as well as having other obligations and only spending about 2 hours a week on this... I forgot i had bent up the pipe at one point and now i can't get it to line up because of it. I'm going to just buy a used one and re-do it.

Anyone have one they would like to sell me?

Also, thanks for the input guys and the quick replies.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 02:22 AM
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if i recall correctly, and i may be wrong....that pipe connects to a heater hose on the driver's side while being held in place on the back of the head by 1 single bolt nestled next to another pipe that goes from near the exhaust manifold to the REED valve.. i would think that of you disconnected it from being held in place on the back of the head and then connected it in the trouble area 1st (using RTV and that copper washer etc..., and torque it to not-so-much maybe 9ft lbs) and then connect it on the driver's side, you may just get what you need out of it.

however, if you mean you bent or distorted the flange on the pipe, i guess you would be right in saying you should get a different one.

believe me, i know what you are talking about.......took me 8 months to do mine because of work and family and more important stuff....so hang in there.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
if i recall correctly, and i may be wrong....that pipe connects to a heater hose on the driver's side while being held in place on the back of the head by 1 single bolt nestled next to another pipe that goes from near the exhaust manifold to the REED valve.. i would think that of you disconnected it from being held in place on the back of the head and then connected it in the trouble area 1st (using RTV and that copper washer etc..., and torque it to not-so-much maybe 9ft lbs) and then connect it on the driver's side, you may just get what you need out of it.

however, if you mean you bent or distorted the flange on the pipe, i guess you would be right in saying you should get a different one.

believe me, i know what you are talking about.......took me 8 months to do mine because of work and family and more important stuff....so hang in there.
I tried everything... I think I had originally bent the crap out of it because It went on after the head and maybe the intake manifold? (my memory doesn't serve as best as it used to)..It's just mangled so I can't quite get it to line up.

Does anyone know the technical name of this pipe? I'm hoping I can find one used along with an upper and lower intake manifold too. Any links?
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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Is this the pipe in question? Bolts to the lower intake plenum. Hope this helps

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Edit: Note that if you have an automatic transmission, the mounting of this pipe to the back of the cylinder head is slightly different, but it uses the same O-ring

Last edited by PismoJoe; Sep 14, 2010 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 05:28 PM
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god job joe
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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my kit came with a copper washer, thats all I used and it sealed up good. hasnt leaked yet. didnt see any o-rings
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 03:00 PM
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Hey coug, I actually just got the part in today. It is a rubber O-ring that Toyota uses for that piece, but there are other means of sealing it that would work. That is the correct P/N for the O-ring, it was just over $3 if I remember correctly.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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thats cool, if I ever get a leak now I know the part number for the o-ring
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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Haha lets hope you don't get a leak! I think I'm going to use that O-ring and a slight amount of Toyota Black FIPG on the flange of the pipe. Sort of a bad design if you ask me, but I guess if you seal it well enough the aluminum should corrode around the pipe and sort of self seal a bit.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by PismoJoe
Is this the pipe in question? Bolts to the lower intake plenum. Hope this helps



Edit: Note that if you have an automatic transmission, the mounting of this pipe to the back of the cylinder head is slightly different, but it uses the same O-ring

That's the one! Thank you! I can't seem to find one used...so if anyone has one and wants to make 20 bucks, let me know!
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 01:50 PM
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So UPDATE. After quiting the 2nd job and enjoying my weekends for a little while, I have decided to try to finish this up.

I purchased the new pipe (the old had a bent flange) and a new rubber o-ring per the above post. I have pulled upper and lower intake manifold to get a better look and I believe i found the root of my problem. I need someone to confirm this...

Now, because I had put these two metal pipes on AFTER the head was already on (basically I did not bolt them to the back of the head first like i should have) I believe that the coolant pipe will not line up because there is a stud (for the bottom left of the lower intake) that is too close to the fuel filter and fuel filter mount, that I cannot get the pipe between the two in order to line up the flange. Hopfefully that makes sense.

I believe if I had the pipes bolted to the head when i dropped it down on the block, the pipe would already be under that stud and sit on top/between the fuel filter.

So, my question is...do I need to pull the head AGAIN to put this damn little pipe on?

Somebody please confirm this, any input would be much appreciated.


Thank you
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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I have just done the exact same thing as you. I have a 1994 22RE 2wd Std. and I did the head gasket job. When I finished and filled up, I was leaking fluid from this same pipe.

To answer you question, you do not have to yank the head again! You just need to move the fuel filter bracket. First take off the fuel filter, you should be able to leave the hoses attached, but I am not sure. Then once the fuel filter is off the bracket, remove the fuel filter bracket.

My pipe is lined up and in the right spot, but I forget the washer or o-ring and I am leaking. I am hoping I do not have to remove the intake manifold and that I can just wiggle the pipe down, slip on the o-ring and then reinstall the two bolts. I can not believe I did my first head gasket and I got everything right except.......this!
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