22re compression ratio
#1
22re compression ratio
I am about to rebuild my 22re. I was curious if any one has bumped up there compression at all. If so, how high is safe and did you do head work or high compression pistons?
#2
When I did my engine work, it went through several stages.
The eventual end setup that I was satisfied with pressed my ctllinders to slightly higher than peak stock compression at 185-195psi. If I am not mistaken 180psi is brand new condition compression on these motors. Getting back to that compression rating was difficult after I had my cyllinders overbored and larger pistons put in. I don't have high compression DOMED pistons, if that's what you were referring to.
I had the head machined multiple times until I was able to achieve the current compression to cyllinder volume ratio.
Good luck with your rebuild.
The eventual end setup that I was satisfied with pressed my ctllinders to slightly higher than peak stock compression at 185-195psi. If I am not mistaken 180psi is brand new condition compression on these motors. Getting back to that compression rating was difficult after I had my cyllinders overbored and larger pistons put in. I don't have high compression DOMED pistons, if that's what you were referring to.
I had the head machined multiple times until I was able to achieve the current compression to cyllinder volume ratio.
Good luck with your rebuild.
#3
my last 22re build (which ran like a raped ape) went something like this: 22RE from an '84 2wd (so I could use the double row timing chain with the factory chain cover) - P&P head / intake - 10.5:1 forged alum Wiseco pistons - cylinders bored .080" over - balanced & blueprinted - Crane Mild Cam - cylinder head & block deck machined - adjustable oil pressure relief - smoothed and polished connecting rods
- with the forged alum pistons I had to relocate the knock sensor ~2" lower on the block (forged alum run different cylinder clearances and the knock sensor was picking up "noise" from them, 2" lower and it stopped retarding the ignition) - Hyperurtectic (sp?) would be a better choice if I had it to do again
- even with the higher compression, I only ran 89 octane with no pinging - though I could also run 87 if I needed to
you should be able to go to higher compression pistons with no issues, these engines are so detuned and over-engineered . . .
- with the forged alum pistons I had to relocate the knock sensor ~2" lower on the block (forged alum run different cylinder clearances and the knock sensor was picking up "noise" from them, 2" lower and it stopped retarding the ignition) - Hyperurtectic (sp?) would be a better choice if I had it to do again
- even with the higher compression, I only ran 89 octane with no pinging - though I could also run 87 if I needed to
you should be able to go to higher compression pistons with no issues, these engines are so detuned and over-engineered . . .
Last edited by corax; 06-29-2008 at 07:20 AM.
#4
Registered User
I had a "whoops" in my last engine design, resulting in 9.4:1 compression. I was able to do 7psi of boost on it, with 93 pump gas - without major issues.
Personally, I wouldn't take a street motor past 10:1 with the 22RE head design. It's not a Corvette or a Honda - the ignition system is a little sloppy and the head design is around 30 years old.
Talk to engnbldr about it... And don't cut too much off your head without checking cam timing.
Personally, I wouldn't take a street motor past 10:1 with the 22RE head design. It's not a Corvette or a Honda - the ignition system is a little sloppy and the head design is around 30 years old.
Talk to engnbldr about it... And don't cut too much off your head without checking cam timing.
#6
Registered User
It seems that the later 22re's pinged straight off the lot when they were new, so personally, I wouldn't bump up the compression at all unless you like paying more $$ at the pump for higher octane.
#7
I did my own work using a Dremel with the flex shaft and some sanding drums / mini flap wheels. You may want to check out LC Engineering, although there are many "speed shops" that can take the head off your engine or a spare you may have and increase the flow a bit. Just remember that bigger isn't necesarily better when it comes to intake and exhaust port size, you need intake velocity.
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