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22re compression ratio

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Old 06-28-2008, 05:30 PM
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22re compression ratio

I am about to rebuild my 22re. I was curious if any one has bumped up there compression at all. If so, how high is safe and did you do head work or high compression pistons?
Old 06-29-2008, 07:02 AM
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When I did my engine work, it went through several stages.
The eventual end setup that I was satisfied with pressed my ctllinders to slightly higher than peak stock compression at 185-195psi. If I am not mistaken 180psi is brand new condition compression on these motors. Getting back to that compression rating was difficult after I had my cyllinders overbored and larger pistons put in. I don't have high compression DOMED pistons, if that's what you were referring to.
I had the head machined multiple times until I was able to achieve the current compression to cyllinder volume ratio.

Good luck with your rebuild.
Old 06-29-2008, 07:14 AM
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my last 22re build (which ran like a raped ape) went something like this: 22RE from an '84 2wd (so I could use the double row timing chain with the factory chain cover) - P&P head / intake - 10.5:1 forged alum Wiseco pistons - cylinders bored .080" over - balanced & blueprinted - Crane Mild Cam - cylinder head & block deck machined - adjustable oil pressure relief - smoothed and polished connecting rods

- with the forged alum pistons I had to relocate the knock sensor ~2" lower on the block (forged alum run different cylinder clearances and the knock sensor was picking up "noise" from them, 2" lower and it stopped retarding the ignition) - Hyperurtectic (sp?) would be a better choice if I had it to do again
- even with the higher compression, I only ran 89 octane with no pinging - though I could also run 87 if I needed to

you should be able to go to higher compression pistons with no issues, these engines are so detuned and over-engineered . . .

Last edited by corax; 06-29-2008 at 07:20 AM.
Old 06-29-2008, 08:43 AM
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I had a "whoops" in my last engine design, resulting in 9.4:1 compression. I was able to do 7psi of boost on it, with 93 pump gas - without major issues.

Personally, I wouldn't take a street motor past 10:1 with the 22RE head design. It's not a Corvette or a Honda - the ignition system is a little sloppy and the head design is around 30 years old.

Talk to engnbldr about it... And don't cut too much off your head without checking cam timing.
Old 06-30-2008, 06:05 PM
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(corax) what company makes a P&P head? Is it p&p or someone else? Do they have a website that i could check out?
Old 06-30-2008, 06:11 PM
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It seems that the later 22re's pinged straight off the lot when they were new, so personally, I wouldn't bump up the compression at all unless you like paying more $$ at the pump for higher octane.
Old 06-30-2008, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 84 yota ex-cab
(corax) what company makes a P&P head? Is it p&p or someone else? Do they have a website that i could check out?
P&P = port and polish

I did my own work using a Dremel with the flex shaft and some sanding drums / mini flap wheels. You may want to check out LC Engineering, although there are many "speed shops" that can take the head off your engine or a spare you may have and increase the flow a bit. Just remember that bigger isn't necesarily better when it comes to intake and exhaust port size, you need intake velocity.
Old 07-08-2008, 02:33 PM
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how much more compression would i get if i were to shave 20 thousands off the head?
Old 07-09-2008, 10:37 AM
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That's going to depend on your head volume, your displacement - mainly bore as you're not changing stroke, which HG you're using, etc.
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