a 22re is suppose to hold 4.5 qts of oil.
so whatever you've got, add 4 qts and mark that spot on the stick as low then add another 1/2 quart and mark that spot as full.

 

I'd do it that way, but not only am I on unlevel ground at the moment, I also have an oversized spin-on filter and a remote filter....bringing the capacity up to probably 5-5.25 qts. Not sure, yet....haven't put but 5qts in. That's why I need the measurements....so I can tell when it's full or not. Won't really know the "new" capacity until tomorrow when I can get on level terrain. For tonight, I just need a ball park/safe operating level so I know for sure I'm not too low.

Hope to hell you followed that gibberish.....

Anyway, thanks fellas. I'm gonna go measure it off in a bit.....after I've sufficiently slammed Abe into hysterical laughter.....or something.

 

Nope, you get the hysterectomy first.

 

Is that before or after you get your colectomy? Haha...hahaha....ha!

 

From what I know of you... that'd be 'after'.

 

Okay....got the dipstick marked. Thanks guys.

Now I have this weird rattle....right around the oil pump....when I let off the throttle after revving a bit. Hm, fuggers....wasn't there before. Maybe the oil weight is too light? 10w-30. I think I was using 10w-40 before. Need to find the spare top off bottle from before.

 

I don't see how. You've had plenty before me, I'm sure.....hahahahaha!

 

Bring it up again, finally got to testing my tps and vam.
If I did it correctly the vam tested outside the specifications, but on the high side. E2-VS tested at 660 ohms. Specs call for 20-400 ohms. The tps tested fine, so I'm back to the conclusion that I've gotten water in the gas. Ran some isopropyl in the last tank and it seems to be running fine now, but the symptoms are sporatic. Some days she runs perfect, the next the idle is off and the she stumbles. Although she's blowing a bit of black smoke, which means it's running rich, right? poor fuel? something else?

 

I forget, did you test the O2 sensor and timing? Don't see where you mentioned it in the thread.

 

Thought someone might be interested in the following images which shows how an O2 sensor reacts at various RPM's. After fixing my VAF problem, I wanted to get a better understanding of how the various sensors work individually as well as their response to each other. Even though my engine runs rather smooth, I have an occassional miss and thought it might be a degraded or bad O2 sensor or running rich condition. I took a PC based oscilloscope and tapped onto the various pins at the ECU to
get a waveform for both Ne (camshaft sensor) and Ht1 (O2 sensor). Red is O2 voltage and blue is Ne signal at the ECU. Reading the voltages at the ECU harness ensures you are evaluating both the sensor and any wiring issues along the way to the ECU.

The three pics are at 1000, 2000 and 3000 RPMs, respectively. Easy enough to see that at 1000 RPM's the O2 sensor plays very little role in the air/fuel mixture adjustment. At 2000RPM's the O2 sensor starts to hunt as the ratio goes from rich to lean to rich....At 3000 RPM's, the O2 sensor is really oscillating.

Tomorrow I am going to look at the O2 sensor voltage with respect to the injector duration (dwell time?). Supposedly, the ECU uses the O2 sensor (in additon to Vs, THA, THW and VTA) to calculate the injector duration.

 

That's some interesting work ahickman, think I will get into the O2 sensor. Took the truck on the freeway today ( can count on both hands how many times it's been on the freeway, but my wife hit a deer, so we're running the truck places I dont want) and it died at the toll booth, getting sick of it running poorly, but I'm stuck. Thought it was fuel, then convinced it was the tps, but I'm still at a loss, just grateful it's not the vam, not cheap.