22re bogging, will not rev
Dec 29, 2018 | 11:52 AM
#1
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22re bogging, will not rev
I've got a 91 pick up. Fresh rebuilt 22re. Drove in the shop before engine rebuild and was running fine, had broken rings on 1 and 2 cylinder so it had alot of blowby but ran surprisingly well. New rings, bearings, rebuilt head, new timing set.. etc. Just got the engine in and fired up, it idles perfect. Timing is dead on 8* . Will not take throttle, just bogs with any amount of throttle applied. I have replaced afm with a known good spare, new tps and adjusted properly, new fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator. It has fuel pressure, however I don't have a gauge. I have removed and rebuilt the injectors. No vacuum leaks. Tripple checked timing and valve adjustment. The truck drove under it's own power 3 weeks ago.. I'm out of ideas... Anyone have any suggestions? I have searched and searched for days. Most info points to afm or tps but I'm sure they are both functioning properly.
Thanks
Thanks
Dec 29, 2018 | 07:14 PM
#6
Dec 29, 2018 | 07:38 PM
#7
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It has an aftermarket air intake, it's definitely not starved for air. Seems like it's starved for fuel. I'm hoping I can sort it out without digging into the harness. I've checked connections and grounds but I know there could be a broken wire somewhere.
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Jan 2, 2019 | 03:54 PM
#9
Jan 2, 2019 | 04:23 PM
#10
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From: way way nor cal
any code?
I just went through something similar on a truck a guy brought me to diagnose. He said he would fire it up, drive it and after it was warmed up it would bog down and quit. So I checked the usual suspects. I drove it and sure enough about 3 miles from my shop the thing breaks down on the side of the road. I get out and look and look and I start to move things around with my hands. I fired it up and it ran great no issues. I started to move things again while it was running and sure enough it bogged out and quit. I looked below the area I moved and sure enough the wiring harness was laying against the EGR. It had melted though to the wiring and exposed one wire and it was shorting out on the EGR. The code it was getting was 14. The shop this dude had the motor installed had pulled the harness in too close to the head. I told him to take it back and have them compensate him but it was 12 hours south.
Not sure if that helps but I would take a close look at things in and below the plenum and intake. Might be something simple.
I just went through something similar on a truck a guy brought me to diagnose. He said he would fire it up, drive it and after it was warmed up it would bog down and quit. So I checked the usual suspects. I drove it and sure enough about 3 miles from my shop the thing breaks down on the side of the road. I get out and look and look and I start to move things around with my hands. I fired it up and it ran great no issues. I started to move things again while it was running and sure enough it bogged out and quit. I looked below the area I moved and sure enough the wiring harness was laying against the EGR. It had melted though to the wiring and exposed one wire and it was shorting out on the EGR. The code it was getting was 14. The shop this dude had the motor installed had pulled the harness in too close to the head. I told him to take it back and have them compensate him but it was 12 hours south.
Not sure if that helps but I would take a close look at things in and below the plenum and intake. Might be something simple.
Jan 2, 2019 | 04:43 PM
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I don't have a way to test fuel pressure. All sensors are securely plugged in and no evidence of burnt or skint wires anywhere. I've tried moving wires around while running and haven't noticed any changes. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold it does the same thing. Cranks right up and idles perfect but will not rev past about 1500 rpm.
Jan 2, 2019 | 05:11 PM
#14
a few years ago, i chased a poor running issue with my 22re. i replaced the fuel pump, ran ok for a week, then ran like crap. eventually, the new pump stopped working about two weeks after i installed it. so i installed another one. ran ok for a day or so, so i replaced one or two other fuel system parts, to no effect. pump failed again. then i installed a permanent fuel pressure gauge, and a new pump. verified that the pump failed a week later. and again. one pump lasted for about 15 seconds.
i eventually replaced the pump seven times. last time in early 2013. still running that pump, and running well. turns out there was a slug of metal filings in the fuel rail and the fuel line from the pump to the filter. i believe the filings were from the original pump failing, and they caused most of the subsequent pump failures. i eventually dismantled the rail and blew out and cleaned the fuel lines (or replaced some).
the pressure gauge helped diagnose the problem and ultimately solve it.
i can look at the gauge and know instantly whether the pump and FPR are working correctly or not.
i eventually replaced the pump seven times. last time in early 2013. still running that pump, and running well. turns out there was a slug of metal filings in the fuel rail and the fuel line from the pump to the filter. i believe the filings were from the original pump failing, and they caused most of the subsequent pump failures. i eventually dismantled the rail and blew out and cleaned the fuel lines (or replaced some).
the pressure gauge helped diagnose the problem and ultimately solve it.
i can look at the gauge and know instantly whether the pump and FPR are working correctly or not.
Jan 2, 2019 | 05:23 PM
#15
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I guess I need to order a gauge kit next then... I had the rail off when I did injector seals and I cleaned it well. Didn't notice anything in it or any build up. Also when I removed the old pump today the screen for it looked like a brand new one. So no sign of any contamints in the fuel system.
Jan 2, 2019 | 05:26 PM
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Reading through comments on YouTube videos of people having similar issues.. found one saying he replaced the copper washer on the big bolt at the inlet of the fuel rail. He said it was too thick and restricted flow. I also replaced mine and the replacement was thicker but I thought nothing of it. Going to pull it off in the morning and see if that makes a difference.
Jan 2, 2019 | 05:29 PM
#17
Reading through comments on YouTube videos of people having similar issues.. found one saying he replaced the copper washer on the big bolt at the inlet of the fuel rail. He said it was too thick and restricted flow. I also replaced mine and the replacement was thicker but I thought nothing of it. Going to pull it off in the morning and see if that makes a difference.
Jan 4, 2019 | 10:53 AM
#20
The thicker washer is a crush washer, it goes on the end of the banjo fitting closest to the threads.
You will still see high pressure with this sort of blockage. A volume test however will show low volume. Pull the fuel return (soft line) and measure how many cc per minute, the spec we use is about 500cc per minute coming out of the pressure regulator.
You will still see high pressure with this sort of blockage. A volume test however will show low volume. Pull the fuel return (soft line) and measure how many cc per minute, the spec we use is about 500cc per minute coming out of the pressure regulator.
