87Roxanne

hi fellas, im new to this forum, but read TONS of good info here before!
2 months ago, i had a chain failure due to my lower bolt from the driver bracket came undone at 3000 rpm (nowhere else to go) jammed in the lower sprocket taking the chain, part of the cover but miraculously did NOT crunch my S Steel valves! Anyhow i got a valve job, new T cover, kit from engnbldr, clean pan, screen, put it all back, runs great!!!!! but i'm also getting a loud CLAK CLACK for a few seconds. BUT the weird thing is that it does not happen on the cold morning ( the engine revs at 1500 rpm so fast that if the noise is there i goes out fast), but it occurs when the engine is hot. I kill the engine and start it back up within seconds and......clack clack clack for a few more....
out of ideas....
Valve clearance is done twice to double check 0.008 int, 0.012 ext.
OH also new Aisin oil pump....
tried different filters.....
i run 10w30....
should i take it to a mechanis to check my oil pressure?
tensioner might be defective?? O.s.k ???
thank you for any help!

87Roxanne

i pulled the cover out and started to play with the chain etc...
this does not look familiar... the tensioner goes back and forth as i manually turn the crank.... is the chain too loose?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRoqv3hM3fU

abeD85flatbed

nice touch with the video showing chain slop. That looks far too loose to be right. the tensioner should apply enough pressure to the chain that it has to be depressed to install the cam gear when initially setting the timing chain. even after blowing the last chain case apart was the woodruff key still seated into the crank straight? I have seen these fold into the crank. Either way that tensioner would appear to be junk.

87Roxanne

yeah it looks like the tensioner its pooped out.... i talked to todd from engnbldr, and he i sending me another one.
i'm not sure what u mean with the woodruf key?

myyota

The tensioner will only apply presure when the engine is running, the tensioner uses the engine oil presure to apply force to the timming, so if the engine is off you will see a little more slack in the timming chain. Atleast thats how it was explained to me.

87Roxanne

yeah i ve learned the same, but i dont know if you notice, but in the video, the tensioner actually goes in and out quite a bit...

myyota

The tensioner is spring loaded so it will keep some presure on the timming chain when the engine is off, so in your video it will seem loose, but start the engine and the tensioner will tighten up because of the oil presure.

87Roxanne

yeah but i think it is leaking, because it should keep oil inside of itself + the spring tension.
that is the couple of seconds of noise i get when i start the engine, untill oil pressure gets it back where it should be...

abeD85flatbed

the woodruff key is the half moon key stock that fits into the crank and keeps the crank gear engaged to the crank in the correct position. Essentially it is what you are lining the gear up to to install it. Even after running a timing set for thousands of miles the tensioner should be stiffer than that. It is pressurized by the oil pump, but that amount of play is excessive. Was the rest of the timing set quality parts? steel guides and not plastic?

flyingbrass

I don't think a static check like that can tell much. The tensioner spring isn't very strong. I couldn't get a good measurement of spring pressure, but it's pretty weak. Here's what it looks like: https://www.yotatech.com/51339390-post145.html

You seem to be rotating the engine from the cam bolt. That's backwards from how the engine operates. Normally, the crank pulls the cam around. The driver's side of the chain remains taut. By turning from the cam, you're pulling the crank around from the passenger side, creating tension against the tensioner where none normally exists. If you turn the engine from the crank bolt I doubt you'll see the tensioner moving much.

Cold oil is thick and creates a lot of pressure. Since your noise only happens when warm, I'd lean toward an oil pressure issue. Maybe the oil passage in your tensioner is partially plugged?

You might e-mail Ted to see what he suggests.

94toy22re

I have 94 22re with a engbldr timing kit less then a 1000 miles ago. I have a identical problem cold start is fine i let it sit for a few minutes and then restart theirs a loud clack for few seconds and then goes away. My chain is a lot looser then yours was on the video.

Island_Yota

My tension is bad too, same symptom.

Thing is, the clack clack clack you hear is the chain slapping the timing cover, eventually it will eat through it, coolant will leak through and turn your oil into a milkshake.

You could try and different oil, im using 5w30 which builds pressure in the circuit faster because it flows faster than a heavier oil.

87Roxanne

sorry guys, i guess u can't tell on the video, but i turning the motor with the crank not the cam. I see what u are saying if it was done that way.
The chain gets only loose when the tensioner goes in (like in the video) when its out i can barely feel any slack (driver side).
Yeah i think the slapping is from the chain on he metal rail. I believe it only hits the timming cover when the rail or rails are gone....
I talked to todd from engnbldr, and he mention the fact that a possible over torque( no more than 12pound) can distortion the body of the tensioner making the little circle plate in the back leak oil, thus loosing the pressure...
this might be my case. i will found out when i get the new tensioner from his and get to work...

possible oil passage blocked maybe.. i hope not.

87Roxanne

yeah by the way i heard that that is one of the most reliable timming kits out there... it beats D.O.A 's $275....(well theirs has both metal guides and is probably better). But i also heard that O.S.K are the tensioner to go with...

87Roxanne

put in a new tensioner an voila! problem solved!!
thanks