Have a 22re now wanna swap it over to carb. All i need is the carb vaccum style distributor, intake, and carb right ? Will my ignitor box and coil still work ?
Yes i know power loss and mpg loss not worried about it.
Thanks !!!

 

Anyone ?

 

I'm curious as well. This efi system is driving me crazy

 

I wish someone would just say something lol

 

No that is not all you need !!! Just what year are you working on??

The ECU are different you can repin yours to work with the EWD of your year and model

***Another Major issue Is fuel pump pressure ***!!! at the EFI pressure you will force the fuel past the needle valve and have a mess.

That needs to be reduced to around 3 to 5 psi off the top of my head.

Not sure why your having problems with the EFI

 

Its a pos ! Ive replaced every sensor and it still has horriable exceleration amd kicks and bucks and everything in between

 

There are several (2 if you live in the 49-states or 3 if you live in California) coolant temperature sensors that are threaded into the intake manifold that control the carburetor heater, the EGR valve, and one more thing which I can't remember right now. Then you'll need the wiring harness to connect those sensors to the emissions computer. Plus there is another coolant sensor bolted independently in the center of the cylinder head between the intake manifold. It routes vacuum to both the Auxiliary Accelerator Pump (AAP) and the Choke Opener on the carburetor.

You'll need the metal vacuum piping lines to control all the vacuum related controls or outputs.

Plus you'll need the wiring harness for the automatic choke, Fuel Cut solenoid, the Outer Vent Control Valve (OVCV).

You'll need the metal lines for the fuel delivery from where the fuel enters the engine compartment to the fuel pump. That is unless you fab up something different. And as was said, you'll need the mechanical fuel pump. That is unless you go with some kind of fuel pressure regulator.

You'll need to get the metal pipe to connect the existing EGR to the intake manifold unless you do an EGR delete, again depending on what state you live in. I can only assume that the two engines use the same EGR assembly.

I can only assume you'll need to get a new throttle cable. There is a metal bracket that the cable mounts to on the valve cover. Then there is a metal bracket on the intake manifold that holds the throttle arm. It's kinda hard to explain that one.

If you have air conditioning, you'll need to get the vacuum solenoid valve that controls the idle up. And you'll need the wiring harness that controls it. Also, there is a separate vacuum diaphragm on the carburetor for the idle up control, so make sure the carburetor has it as well.

You'll need to get the metal air cleaner assembly. And ideally, connect it to the exhaust manifold via the accordion-like hose. What that does is aid in preheating the air entering the carburetor until the engine warms up. If you do that, then you'll need the exhaust manifold heat shield.


Those are the few things I can think of right now. If I think of anything more, I'll add to this post.



Correct.

 

chances are if you have replaced all of the efi sensors that your problem lies with the engine harness. It is fairly common for the injector wiring under the intake manifold to corrode and fail where the wires are spliced together. I would inspect the wiring first before converting the truck to carb as the EFI is far superior. I wish my truck was EFI and not carbed. Nothing like trying to get it to start at 30 degrees and below, sounds like a camed out race car for the first 5 min......

 

How do you check that wiring?

 

I live in florida and dont need any of the emissions b.s i got the fuel deliver under control and i have a msd box and coil for the truck i just wanna know if the carb, intake, and vaccum advance distributor will swap over to my motor and with the msd box and my fuel delivery will everything work? And bolt up ?

I got tomorrow off and ill go threw every single wire on the truck and try and find a problem but if that doesnt work im carbin it or setting a match to it.

 

Opened every loom from the firewall to the head lights amd no wires were broke burnt ect.. So i reloomed and taped them back together broke the temp sensor and tps pig tail !!! But fired it up and ran it aroun the block. First gear still kinda has a hicup but 2nd-5th i can mat it and it goes ??? And you wonder why im tired of this b.s i have one plug by the upper intake i dont know where it goes and it never been hooked up. Its a 2 pin pigtail looks smiliar to the cold start injector . Seems to start up and run wayyyyyy better i have no idea!!! Even with the temp sensor and tps sensor pogtails broke and both sensor have been replaced.

 

If you had one wire snap on you. Could you have more wires that might be brittle but haven't snapped? This could partly explain while messing with your harness you improved a bad/brittle connection. Just a thought

 

They all seemed fine none were broke or fragile in the loom just were the connector is . So as of right now the tps and coolenat temp sensor are out of service. But it runs better.... Is there away to check and see if the fuel is getting returned out of the regulator and not being force to stay in the fuel rail and cause it to over load? It really seems like it is cutting out of fuel or is getting to much fuel when it acts up like it does. When i give it 1/4 throttle it runs all around town. 1/2-wot throttle it kicks and bucks ectt... But wen you lower it back down to 1/4 throttle it will run like a toyota again.

 

One thing i forgot to say was the truck smoke really ba when you start it up i did a head gasket and valve seal on it 5 month ago. So i decied to do a compression test todat and this is what i got
#1 155
#2 160
#3 150
#4 135
So its not that horriable i think 150 is ok on these motors and one have any ideas on that ? Maybe thats why im losing power? And i also checked timing and its fine

 

150 is ok but I would be a little concerned about the 135. Just seems too far off from the 150's. maybe retest it to make sure your tester had a good seal?

 

The tps and coolant temp are imperative to the efi system. If messing with the harness made any change, better or worse, then you found your problem. The wiring does not have to be broken, even if it just has some corrosion this can change the amount of resistance in the wire causing weird problems. Also check all your ground wires especially the ecu ground for good grounding. Does anyone know where the ecu grounds at?

 

@thefishguy77 yeah i think that might of been the problem with number 4 its kinda a pain to get to ill recheck tomorrow

And all grounds are good but didnt know the ecu had a ground ??? And i forgot to mention this but i pulled the upper intake to go threw the loom and when i did i blew the intake out and the egr port inside the intake and i blew all kindas of junk out of it ran good for a day now back to the same problem and i also got the coolant temp pigtail fixed so back to the tps pig tail problem. It honestly ran the same with it pluged in and with it unplugged. So i highly doubt thats where the problem is coming from.

Cant you suck on the hose that goes to the egr and it should make the plunger goes up and down to make sure its not stuck ?!?

Thanks for all the replys and help!!!!