I have 86 toyota 22r with weber carb. I have had many yotas but first carb. It starts right up when cold but I can turn it off and it takes forever to get it to start back when hot. Gas mileage is awful about 13 mpg. After it warms up it idles really high. Please help

 

It's probably flooding. After you shut it off look down in the carb and see if it's dripping fuel inside. Check the choke also, might be stuck closed when warmed up or not working at all.

 

Yep, check the float setting and the choke. My choke butterfly's got stuck in the air horn once and ran like crap. If that's ok it could be vapor locking when hot. Mine did that when I first installed the Weber. I insulated the rubber fuel line and it cured that problem. As far as the mileage, if it's not flooding and the choke isn't stuck, I'd start from scratch and go through the initial install instructions with regard to the fast idle screws, jets etc.

 

sounds like your weber needs some adjusting done to it.
!st you need to be sure everything for your weber is properly installed so it will work correctly.

Webers require a proper fuel pressure regulator, pressure needs to be reduced to 2.5-3 psi, I highly recommend a holley regulator, they are cheap and reliable. The oem fuel pump is just fine for the job, add the regulator between the pump and the carb fuel inlet.

2nd- Hose for the vac advance on the distributor needs to be hooked up to the carb, hose should be on the distributor advance closest to the radiator I believe.

3rd- Purchase the trans dapt weber to 22r adapter and throw the adapter plates that came with the weber in the trash! They always create a vacuum leak.

4th- Follow the instructions for adjusting the weber.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45126.0

I have found that my weber on my truck seems to not like starting when warm as well, My solution is the crack the throttle open slightly while cranking, fires every time right away.

Hope this helps you with your weber, most people credit them as junk but 95% of people do not understand how they work and how to tune them.

 

^Aftermarket Weber and Holley carbs out of the box often are not jetted right. After you fix the flooding/choke problem, if you really want it dialed in, re-jet the mains. The rule of thumb is progressively go leaner on the main jets until you get a lean surge at 50-60 mph, then go at least 2 sizes richer.

 

Could be a number of problems but it's most likely carb tuning. Follow the Weber instructions on proper jetting.


With a high-idle after warm-up your choke settings are probably incorrect as well. I am assuming an electric choke?


My bet is a combination of rich idle jetting, poor idle speed adjustment and bad choke settings. The easiest way to check is to manually adjust the choke full open and back off the high-idle screw and see what that does. Then appropriately jet your Weber, and adjust your choke settings from there. You can search the forums for Weber tuning info, search Carbs Unlimited for proper tuning info, and feel free to visit the 84 and under forum as most of the carb guys will be there. The RE wasn't sent to the US until late 1983 in limited applications, so it stands to reason the 84 and under folks will likely have the most carb tuning experience.


While fuel pressure regulator advice is heavily dispensed on the internet and is harmless, it is an unnecessary expenditure in most cases. If you off-road your truck an FPR is a good thing to have, but if you're just driving it on the street the stock mechanical pump will not overpower your carb unless there is another issue. This also does not sound like a fuel pressure issue yet at this point. That could come into play, but don't start by throwing parts.


Webers will often perform just fine on the street with pressures between 4 and 5 psi. The common belief that Webers are magically sensitive is superstition and most folks with Weber problems will find that there are other issues in tandem with pressure increases that are the main source of the problem. This is not to say that Webers are not low-pressure carbs, however. You'll never go wrong following factory guidelines but running out and buying an FPR is most likely not going to solve this problem. Edit - I am not overly familiar with 1986 trucks. If it's running an electric fuel pump and pushing much over 4.5 PSI you might want to use an FPR as a safety precaution. If you have a Toyota Mechanical pump I can tell you that when properly installed an FPR is not necessary for street use unless you have a special condition.