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#2 cylinder?? not working

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Old 04-15-2006, 06:27 PM
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#2 cylinder?? not working

I posted this in the forum before this one although the runner is an 86 the motor is a 85 1/2... not sure if'n this matters two bits.

Here is the repost:


85 1/2 22re, 4-runner
just replaced injectors (cleaned and rebuilt from RC engeneering) and cleaned intake.... yuck it was dirty and full of black crap.
the engine is back together and I know some adjustments are needed for the "new" injectors and clean plunnums...
1)Tps was set to default?? moved it clockwise till the numbers stopped reading and meter went to OL
2)I'm sure the fuel pressure needs some help... w/ out a gauge the shop will get that on monday??
3) the truck starts and runs rough.... pulling #1 plug stalls motor
pulling #2 has no effect but spark is present... So I'm thinking injector??
the other 2 cylinders also stall the motor.

4)Do I pull the top plennum and somehow retest the injectors and wires....
5)what would be the wire test.?
6)Would there be another function that makes #2 unresponsive in the pulling of the plug wire (*yes the spark plug works in #3 so I've ruled the plug out)

*I have a complete, dismantled and very dirty, top end.... head, intake, and MAF..... ebay?? at what cost?

Thanks in advance for any help

VR
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Old 04-15-2006, 07:08 PM
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Hey, Have you done a compression check on #2 cylinder? Was the plug in #2 burning clean or dirty? I figure I'd give a fellow montanan a couple of suggestions!
Old 04-15-2006, 07:58 PM
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If it was running fine prior to the injector install I would assume an injector. Cant remember how hard it is to pull those, but see if you can swap one from #2 to #3.

Also what is an 85.5?
Old 04-15-2006, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 4runnermt
Hey, Have you done a compression check on #2 cylinder? Was the plug in #2 burning clean or dirty? I figure I'd give a fellow montanan a couple of suggestions!
I have not done a comp test...
and the plugs (I switched 2 & 3 to rule out plug failure) loooked the same and have only 5-7000 miles on them
It was not broken so I tried to fix it, motor was rebuild a month or two before I bought it from a friend, that was 200,000 now we're at 222,??? as the speedo broke a few weeks ago.
the shop that did the work ????
but the intake/ injectors looked as if they had never been done for sure not in the last 22,000 miles.
the motor ran well ( not like the current shaker and mover), but drank gas and didn't have much ass.
Now that everything is shiny and clean it is shaking all over the place... like well it's running on only 3 cyl.

wher in mt are you?
I'm in canyon creek outside helena.

VR
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4nala
If it was running fine prior to the injector install I would assume an injector. Cant remember how hard it is to pull those, but see if you can swap one from #2 to #3.

Also what is an 85.5?
85.5 is when the truck was built and one person or another in here? said sometimes it may matter?
to me it is an 86 4-runner but I'm stuck so I'm putting out as much info as possible.
could a really wacked out TSP jump or miss fire a single injector? I would not think so but...

thanks for the responses

VR
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:22 PM
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I dont think so either..

In reference to my 85.5 question, I just had never heard of half model year toyotas. I was wondering what the differnce betweem a 85 22RE and 85.5 22RE and 86 22RE was. I am assuming it's a 85 enging in an 86.

G/L
Old 04-15-2006, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4nala
I dont think so either..

In reference to my 85.5 question, I just had never heard of half model year toyotas. I was wondering what the differnce betweem a 85 22RE and 85.5 22RE and 86 22RE was. I am assuming it's a 85 enging in an 86.

G/L
Thats what I gather.
An 85 powerplant and some other leftovers thrown into an 86 ifs runner,
not sure what if any differances there are between 85 an 86 22re's?

anyone elese have some thoughts on #2 not working... damn slacker.

VR
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Old 04-16-2006, 04:46 AM
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Here is something to try. Pull the distributor out. Turn the key to the run position and turn the distributor by hand. You should here the injectors fire as it is turned. Listen for the number 2 to click or put your finger on it and you might feel it cycle. This will tell you if it is working.

I was looking at your first post and they way you set the TPS does not sound right. The meter when on the IDLE pin and common pin should show a resistance when the throttle is closed, around 10-30 ohms. Then when you start to open the throttle it should go to OL or infinity(switch open). This is not causing your problem with #2 though.

I woul also not assume that if you pull the plug wire that the truck should stall. I have had 2 wires off before and it will still run. Its a Toyota remember. Try setting your timing up after you adjust your TPS and see what you get. ALso check for vacuum leaks or a hose not connected.
Old 04-16-2006, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Flash319
Here is something to try. Pull the distributor out. Turn the key to the run position and turn the distributor by hand. You should here the injectors fire as it is turned. Listen for the number 2 to click or put your finger on it and you might feel it cycle. This will tell you if it is working.

I was looking at your first post and they way you set the TPS does not sound right. The meter when on the IDLE pin and common pin should show a resistance when the throttle is closed, around 10-30 ohms. Then when you start to open the throttle it should go to OL or infinity(switch open). This is not causing your problem with #2 though.

I woul also not assume that if you pull the plug wire that the truck should stall. I have had 2 wires off before and it will still run. Its a Toyota remember. Try setting your timing up after you adjust your TPS and see what you get. ALso check for vacuum leaks or a hose not connected.
I broke out the old stethascope (sp?) and attempted to listen last night.
I suck at hearing what's what..

I'll try resetting the TPS again, I was using the FSM but I don't always understand what they are wanting me to do, then other times they overexplain to the point of being a tom clancy novel.

I'll give your distributor Idea a go.

It seems too be running as if a cyl is out already, thus when I pull a "running" cylinder it has two out and it will barely run but will as you say continue to chug along.

I have replaced or inspected and installed actuall hose clamps to vacume hoses and such. miles and miles of hoses I think might dissapear If'n I find the right links/ write-ups to explain what I'm doing.

I will attempt to tune everything as close to perfect as I can then dive the 35 miles to town and let the shop gauge the things I have not the tools for.
things not ruled out
valves.... it was running OK prior to my messing w/ it (minus the gas drinking and lack of ass), running smooth would be more accurate, and I had spected them in Dec. so 1500-2000 miles ago??. Would cleaning all the gunk, water and carbon out flail the setting enough to make the engine run so roughly?
Timing is set at 5%
the Idel is 800 but jumps +/- 50 or so ( 750 I believe what it is to be set at)

keep them comments comming please.

PS injector #2 came back w/ 2.8 ohm reading so it seems to still be OK???

VR
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Last edited by hilandfrog; 04-16-2006 at 10:22 AM.
Old 04-16-2006, 01:53 PM
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Well if you got spark and gas then the only other thing you need is compression. Did you adjust the valves? Maybe #2 valves are to tight and not closing all the way? The gas milage and lack of "ass" was probebly your TPS and timing. That TPS does wonders for these injection system.
Maybe your EGR valve is stuck open from some crap that got in it when you cleaned the manifold? Head gasket blown between cylinders?
Old 04-16-2006, 02:08 PM
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how does the #2 injector plug and wiring look? it just might be a bad wire or plug.....
Old 04-16-2006, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by superjoe83
how does the #2 injector plug and wiring look? it just might be a bad wire or plug.....
the wires looked good.. a bit of an oil bath prior to clean up but no broken or brittle wires noted?? the plastic plugs seem somewhat brittle however they appear to make a solid conection.

Originally Posted by flash
Well if you got spark and gas then the only other thing you need is compression. Did you adjust the valves? Maybe #2 valves are to tight and not closing all the way? The gas milage and lack of "ass" was probebly your TPS and timing. That TPS does wonders for these injection system.
Maybe your EGR valve is stuck open from some crap that got in it when you cleaned the manifold? Head gasket blown between cylinders?
I know I have spark not sure on gas, I think the injectors were working but I didn't squirt them in my eye so I can not be sure, and the stethascope didn't work out so well. # 2 omed out w/ 2.8 but i have not checked the wires or actual output.
Stuck EGR.... I sucked and blew for all that I was worth
I hope no junk is left in the pipes
The valves were done in DEC, less than 5K ago. by me and they seemed to be OK??
I have no compression gauge so the shop gets that one... sure I'll spend the 50 bucks but I have not yet... did I mention I just bought a hobart handeler 140 MIG, so the wife is a bit tool shy at the moment

The TSP was replaced around 210,000 (222,000 + now) and the adjustment has been befuddleing to me thus far. although I have messed w/ it a few times it has not smothed out the motor at all.

You had to say head gasket I sure hope not but you are correct it is in the realm of possabilities, so it makes the list of low possabilities, nothing noted in oil or loss of cooling fluid, I'll keep my fingers crossed.

PS I'm sorry I suck so badly at spelling, please just go w/ it.

keep them comments comming boys and girls... I need help.

???? what should I be concerned w/ if I drive it the way it is (3 cyl) 35 miles to town and a shop w/ all the right moves... um, tools.
I Know the intake w/ get messy and the #2 plug hot, what is my best option, or way to drive w/ the least possibility of messing something up badly??

VR
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by hilandfrog
???? what should I be concerned w/ if I drive it the way it is (3 cyl) 35 miles to town and a shop w/ all the right moves... um, tools.
I Know the intake w/ get messy and the #2 plug hot, what is my best option, or way to drive w/ the least possibility of messing something up badly??

VR
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if the injector is not firing you will not hurt a thing, but if you were getting fuel but no spark then you could possibly damage the catalytic converter, but that is not whats happening
Old 04-16-2006, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by superjoe83
if the injector is not firing you will not hurt a thing, but if you were getting fuel but no spark then you could possibly damage the catalytic converter, but that is not whats happening
Thanks
I know i'm starting to saound like a sally but I'm dragging a trailor to LV on Wed and would like to make the trip as painless as possible, so over thinking and adding extra what ifs is hitting me hard

VR
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Old 04-18-2006, 10:43 PM
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so I got back from the shop and they said #2 fuel injector must be clogged and they want to send them in to be cleaned.
compression test 150 X4
ECU all OK
plugs cap wires OK
timing, TPS and little white platic screw thingy all untouched do to the 3cyl running of truck.
$$70 and a est for the rear output shaft on the tranfer $124

Once I got home I broke it all down again and inspected #2 and hose from filter to fuel rail.... Nothing seen.
put it all back together #2 still out, broke it back down and installed one of the 4 I just took off, sure hope it isn't dripping too badly.
truck runs great

Is ther any recourse for the injector that came back from the "cleaners" not working??
is it just one of those deals and I should suck it up??
get them to ship me another and break it all down again looks like the most likely deal.
I'll button Sid all up tomorrow and hit the road to LV.

I'll update the "cleaners" name if things go well, and what type of power and MPG improvements I get..
VR
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Old 04-19-2006, 07:22 AM
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i would have them send you a new one...
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