Hey guys! First time posting on here but I've been lurking alot! I've looked around looking for answers to my question without any luck. So here goes.

First of all its about my 1994 Toyota Pickup 22re 4wd. I've been looking at swapping my ignition coil trying to narrow down misfires at idle and code 25 lean(already changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, injectors, FPR, fuel pump, oxygen sensor, adjusted TPS to FSM aswell as checked VAFM). Anyway the real question is regarding my ignition coil! For some reason when I changed the wires I noticed to coil to cap wire didn't fit inside my ignition coil(I ordered wires for 92-95 or wtv it was) so that got my thinking wtf! did i get the wrong ones! I went online to have a look at different wires and noticed that the ones for early models would fit! Now I looked online and figured out the ignition coil for a 1994 was waaaaaaaay different then the one I had and was actually for older models.

Soo was this swapped at some point of its life or what is going on? Could it cause issues with the ignition? Can I use the igniter from the old style with a newer model ignition coil(Probly not had they have about 100$ difference and different part numbers)? There is no trace of any shenanigans went one with the igniter or coil itself beside the pickup coil wires being soldered instead of the usual plugin.

Pictures here of the coil I currently have(Cylinder shape) and the one that SHOULD be in the truck(Box style)

 

Most likely it was swapped at some point. Is your current coil red? Toyota did use a round coil like the first picture on older trucks but it did say Toyota on it. As far as it affecting how the engine runs, it should not affect it unless the coil is failing. You could swap the the newer style and see if it helps. I see you have changed a lot of parts, I recommend testing each part according to the factory service manual and verifying if it is really bad. Many new aftermarket parts are no where near the quality that Toyota used back in the day.
The ignitor on the truck is the stock one or came with the round coil and the wiring modified? Based off some quick googlefoo It looks like the round coils came on trucks through 1993. What is the build date on your truck?
Take a picture of this solderd wiring as well.

 

Misfires due to bad spark are more likely to cause a rich condition (as the cylinder is pumping out un-burned fuel). A lean condition all by itself can cause a miss at idle; not enough fuel to burn.

I'd put a little more inquiry into the lean code. I'd start with an un-lit propane torch to see if I could find a vacuum leak. Then I'd move onto testing the O2 sensor with a multimeter. I'm not sure your symptoms point to a problem anywhere in ignition.

 

Thanks for the replies guys!

I did the unlit propane torch test and nothing come up. For about an hour going around everywhere it could leak. The only thing I can think of is my brake booster. Someone told me though if my idle is above 1000rpm that when you press the brake the ECU shuts off the injectors till the idle goes down? I was having issues with my IACV and can't turn the idle screw down any more than it is already but either way the IACV is metered air and shouldn't be throwing a lean code.

The o2 was changed twice thinking that this was the issue behind my lean code. All the wires have been tested for continuity.

I understand that it might not point towards a ignition issue but like I said so many things have been changed that I have almost no idea anymore of wtf is going on.

I feel like it might be somehow running rich(even though I have a lean code) since the spark plugs get black really quick. From what I've read in the FSM the ECU has to read lean conditions for 90 sec trying to compensate and being unable to(spraying maximum amount of gas to try to resolve the lean issue thus actually running rich). Meaning that the air entering the exhaust would actually be rich and pointing towards the o2 being bad? Correct? The o2 is actually on my mid pipe right after my header(Race header 4-1). Header was actually checked for leaks and nothing came up.

P.s. all the parts regarding the lean code as per FSM was also tested as per FSM in expection of ECU which is almost my last resort

 

The coil is red in fact! I just looked up the year it was build in and as per information acquire and my vin (10th digit being P). It was built in 1993! Well that solves that! Thanks!

The only other issue now is I'm running a distributor cap/rotor and wire from a 1994(they have lock clips) hopefully they are the same in terms of specs?

 

The specs should be the same they just added the clips and changes the coil style. I highly recommend building or buying a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks. All so a great tool to check for exhaust leaks. If you have an exhaust leak up stream or near the o2 sensor fresh air can be sucked into the exhaust and the 02 will see that and try to compensate.