The TE and the TE1 ports on the diagnostics box are supposed to be jumped to time a 22 RE, but doing that jump doesn’t affect my timing, ( it should) and doesn’t give me codes. The check engine light is on.
I’d also like to adjust the timing ( and then the TPS like the sticky says to) but can’t do it if the diagnostics box is out of commission. Although I did use it once to test my fuel pump wiring I believe.
I read somewhere that if you’ve correctly timed the 22RE with the jump, then when you remove the jump, the timing light should read 12 BTDC. So I just time it to 12 degrees BTDC now. And it runs pretty good but has a miss and I’d like to pull codes.
How would I go about troubleshooting the diagnostics box? Seems like replacing it might be needed.
Any suggestions much appreciated.

 

You should be jumping TE1 and E1 to gets codes and for timing.

 

thanks, that’s what I’ve been doing, TE1 to E1. There’s a picture of it in my Haynes manual.

 

If the idle RPM is too high, the ECM will not revert to base timing, even when jumped.
Likewise, the ECM will not revert to base timing if it is not getting the 'throttle closed' signal from the throttle position sensor.
Check and adjust idle RPM to spec
Then try setting the TPS using with this method>> Adjusting your TPS with a Timing Light-22RE#/3VZE - YotaTech Forums
Try jumpering to set base timing again.

 

The only time I can get it to idle below 1200 maybe 1000, is when it’s hot from driving and I stomp on the pedal real quick. Then it can get to 700 or 600. Usually 800. Every time I come to a stop it idles at 1500 until I stomp the petal. So I don’t think it’s ready for that standard adjustment yet. The idle adjustment screw is all the way in, I’ll try moving the TPS around when it’s warmed up and see if it idles down. When it was idling at 1000 I timed it at 12 BTDC and that dropped the idle way down to what it is now. I’ll do that again too. To be continued…. Btw, the O2 sensor is brand new

 

i've seen that behavior when there is a physical hangup with the accelerator pedal/cable/ect.

when it's hot and idling too fast, maybe pop the hood and push the throttle plate into the closed position, if that works you'll have to figure out where it's hanging up... maybe the accelerator pedal cable needs to be lubed?

 

vacuum leak somewhere? smoke test?

does your truck have cruise control? if so, check that cable also. maybe even loosen and remove it completely from the bracket to relieve all tension. i noticed this cable under slight tension was causing a higher idle on my 4runner. if it helps leave it off for timing and then after your finished hook it back up.

also does the 22re have an idle control valve within the throttle body like the 3VZE? if everything else has been ruled out i would maybe check that.

 

How is everything going now?
Thanks for the update.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions very much. I'll see if I can get notices in my email when I get a reply, been a busy week.
The throttle cable is slack just a little but the butterfly valve in the plenum needs cleaning again, it is sticking at times and I will clean it again, that may be causing high idle.
I don't have cruise control, and my Idle control valve is all the way down so it's not the problem.
HOWEVER I did change the position on the TPS and it's running much stronger, and idling a little lower. All I did was move it so the screw was in the middle of the slot. I had it adjusted it a few months ago according to the book, with the engine off. And I think that was a compromise between two readings that were a little off. I never have been able to adjust it so that all the readings required are in spec.
I did a vaccuum test on it with a new gauge a few months ago also, and had very good readings.
It still idles high when I come to a stop, about 1300 instead of 1500 now. And it still drops down when I tap the throttle pedal hard. Now it drops to about 900 instead of 1000. So its better but could be better still. Don't know what to try next.
The difference in high end torque is quite substantial after moving the TPS. All around torque is better.
Also it's still missing when I accelerate in first gear after getting off the highway. It's got a brand new fuel filter and fuel pump.
Thanks again for all the great ideas, Looks like I need more of them now. I wonder if the EGR gives these kinds of symptoms when clogged.

 

The FSM's multiple test readings of the TPS exist only so that it might be determined if that part is fit for further service or not.
The only possible adjustment of the TPS on the throttle body is that the 'throttle closed' signal is sent precisely at the throttle plates resting position.
Jimkola's method of adjusting the TPS using a timing light is, far and away, the easiest and most precise way of making this adjustment.

 

Well THAT simplifies things. What about the problem I described earlier, the lack of a functioning diagnostics box? I read somewhere that the timing will read 12 degrees BTDC when the jump between the two terminals is removed from the box after timing to 5 BTDC. I believe the first step in Jim's method is to time the engine correctly. Would it be correct timing to go 12 BTDC without the jump?

 

It sounds like your idle being too high is preventing the jumper from allowing you to set the timing properly.
Is the Idle Adjust Screw in the top of the throttle body adjusted correctly? That's your main idle speed adjustment. The Idle Adjust Screw is located under a cover screw on the top left, as you face the engine, of the throttle body. The cover screw is a relativey large screw that should be flush to the throttle body. Once the cover screw is removed you can adjust the idle screw.
One thing to check is whether the o-ring on the idle adjst screw (IAS) is still in good shape. Screw the IAS all the way down, until it bottoms, counting the turns, and partial turns, required. Then you can unscrew it all the way out, and check the o-ring on it. They do tend to get brittle, and can disintegrate, clogging up the air passages that the IAS opens or cloese down to set the idle speed. You should check that the air passages are clean and clear of chunks of o-ring, carbon build up, and so on. If there's any doubt about the o-ring, replace it. It a small o-ring, and commonly available.
Once all is well with the IAS, and so on, screw it back down in all the way, until it bottoms again. Then unscrew it the number of turns until it's back where you started. That's your starting point and once there you can adjust it in to slow the idle, or out to increase the idle speed. Set your idle to about 850 RPM.
Once all that is done, shut the engine off, put in the jumper, and you should be able to get about 5° BTDC. If it's not, adjust the distributor until it is. Once there, shut down, pull the jumper, and fire it back up. It should now show 12° BTDC.
Good luck to you!
Pat..

 

Many thanks. I replaced that screw with one from LCE ( should have just got a new O ring) a few months ago, and screwed it down all the way. The cover plug was gone, I’ll get one. It’s idling lower now so I’ll try the jump again. Good to know it should have 12 BTDC without the jump.
Now I’m wondering if moving the TPS changed the timing. Have not re set the TPS yet using the timing method. Will do that tomorrow.
This engine uses no oil at all and runs really strong so I really appreciate the help.

 

I adjusted the TPS just now, after cleaning the throttle throat good but could still not get it to idle below 1,000. Warmed way up. Then I jumped TE1 to E1. This time there was a noticeable drop in RPM, a timing retardant from 11 to 5 BTDC but only for 10 seconds. Then returned to 1000 rpm at 11 BTDC. Two more tries jumping gave same results. So I went ahead and did the TPS timing light adjusting and ended up with a rpm of a hair under 1100 and 6 BTDC. And the screw to the left of center about 25%, if center is 50%. So, not great results, but not terrible.
Followed the sticky to the letter. Moved TPS body clockwise until the timing mark shot way into advance then brought it back to where it was and tightened it down. Ended up at 6 BTDC so adjusted the distributor back to 12. Will be interesting to see how it does on the highway tomorrow. Maybe I should check the sensor in the exhaust pipe?
Thanks.

 

Drove it 140 miles today, still idles at 1500 until I swat the pedal, then drops to 1,000. It ran smooth but lost a lot of torque, from the TPS setting by timing light. So moved TPS back to middle of slot and it's running better. Will recheck the timing anyway. .
Maybe I got a faulty IAC. Maybe the ECM is bad. Diagnostics box needs replacing so I'll google that. Probably going to end up putting a carb on it.
Thanks