1993 P.U. 22RE overheating & losing Coolant
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1993 P.U. 22RE overheating & losing Coolant
Im working on a 1993 Pick Up with a 22RE engine. I odered the dual stage thermostat today (90916-03070) but not really sure if that will fix the problem. The truck has a new radiator new water pump new belts and hoses and the engine has been recently rebuilt, but for some reason it tends to run hot and it will loose some coolant everytime I check the radiator,but their is no leaks anywhere I look, has anyone had this problem before please HELP !
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do you do alot of stop and go? when your moving your fan does'nt do alot of work.. but when you going less the 15mph or so.. it pulls air.. check the fan clutch..
to check the fan clutch start the engine (cold) let it idle then turn it off, watch the fan or have a friend watch it. if it spins for more the a second then replace it.
i had this problem not long ago. along with a newer rad mine runs cool.. matter a fact.. i'll need a hotter t-stat during the winter b/c the hand only shows it runing 1/4 temp.
no water in oil right?? you can check that that'll be due to a back timing cover or hg. but you said it's rebuilt.....???
sniff the coolent.. if it smells like exhaust.. bad hg
just have to look around.. took me a while to figure out my deal.
to check the fan clutch start the engine (cold) let it idle then turn it off, watch the fan or have a friend watch it. if it spins for more the a second then replace it.
i had this problem not long ago. along with a newer rad mine runs cool.. matter a fact.. i'll need a hotter t-stat during the winter b/c the hand only shows it runing 1/4 temp.
no water in oil right?? you can check that that'll be due to a back timing cover or hg. but you said it's rebuilt.....???
sniff the coolent.. if it smells like exhaust.. bad hg
just have to look around.. took me a while to figure out my deal.
Last edited by korn111685; 07-31-2009 at 06:42 PM.
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do you do alot of stop and go? when your moving your fan does'nt do alot of work.. but when you going less the 15mph or so.. it pulls air.. check the fan clutch..
to check the fan clutch start the engine (cold) let it idle then turn it off, watch the fan or have a friend watch it. if it spins for more the a second then replace it.
i had this problem not long ago. along with a newer rad mine runs cool.. matter a fact.. i'll need a hotter t-stat during the winter b/c the hand only shows it runing 1/4 temp.
no water in oil right?? you can check that that'll be due to a back timing cover or hg. but you said it's rebuilt.....???
sniff the coolent.. if it smells like exhaust.. bad hg
just have to look around.. took me a while to figure out my deal.
to check the fan clutch start the engine (cold) let it idle then turn it off, watch the fan or have a friend watch it. if it spins for more the a second then replace it.
i had this problem not long ago. along with a newer rad mine runs cool.. matter a fact.. i'll need a hotter t-stat during the winter b/c the hand only shows it runing 1/4 temp.
no water in oil right?? you can check that that'll be due to a back timing cover or hg. but you said it's rebuilt.....???
sniff the coolent.. if it smells like exhaust.. bad hg
just have to look around.. took me a while to figure out my deal.
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well not everytime you lose water does it mean something bad is wrong with it. heck i was loseing water when trying to cure my cooling blues.. ran the engine to the red line a few times during the time i was trying everything i could to cure it.
like i said i lost water.. but after changeing the rad and fan clutch... i am golden. the old rad held pressure so it was good.. as far as being sealed. but it was clogged bad.
like you said give the t-stat a try. with a new rad, pump, fan clutch, and a rebuilt engine... should cool just fine with the right t-stat. if the new t-stat dont work pressure test it.. then that will tell you for sure if you have a leak someplace.
you checked hoses right? had one drip at the rad really slow and not collect water. it would evap from the heat..
like i said i lost water.. but after changeing the rad and fan clutch... i am golden. the old rad held pressure so it was good.. as far as being sealed. but it was clogged bad.
like you said give the t-stat a try. with a new rad, pump, fan clutch, and a rebuilt engine... should cool just fine with the right t-stat. if the new t-stat dont work pressure test it.. then that will tell you for sure if you have a leak someplace.
you checked hoses right? had one drip at the rad really slow and not collect water. it would evap from the heat..
Last edited by korn111685; 07-31-2009 at 07:24 PM.
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i also flushed mine a few times to get all the "gunk" out..
when does it seem to run hot on you? just at idle and stop and go? or does it run fine and just after a while starts to run warmer?
when does it seem to run hot on you? just at idle and stop and go? or does it run fine and just after a while starts to run warmer?
Last edited by korn111685; 07-31-2009 at 07:22 PM.
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Perhaps you didnt bleed the air out of the cooling system when you did work on it, so the trapped air was taking up space, but eventually its finding its way out and making your radiator look low.
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 07-31-2009 at 07:17 PM.
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well not everytime you lose water does it mean something bad is wrong with it. heck i was loseing water when trying to cure my cooling blues.. ran the engine to the red line a few times during the time i was trying everything i could to cure it.
like i said i lost water.. but after changeing the rad and fan clutch... i am golden. the old rad held pressure so it was good.. as far as being sealed. but it was clogged bad.
like you said give the t-stat a try. with a new rad, pump, fan clutch, and a rebuilt engine... should cool just fine with the right t-stat. if the new t-stat dont work pressure test it.. then that will tell you for sure if you have a leak someplace.
you checked hoses right? had one drip at the rad really slow and not collect water. it would evap from the heat..
like i said i lost water.. but after changeing the rad and fan clutch... i am golden. the old rad held pressure so it was good.. as far as being sealed. but it was clogged bad.
like you said give the t-stat a try. with a new rad, pump, fan clutch, and a rebuilt engine... should cool just fine with the right t-stat. if the new t-stat dont work pressure test it.. then that will tell you for sure if you have a leak someplace.
you checked hoses right? had one drip at the rad really slow and not collect water. it would evap from the heat..
#9
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may be as simple as the radiator cap
a bad one will let too much expanding water into the overflow tank and, well, overflow it, therefore causing a loss of coolant
and pressure raises the boiling point of a liquid, and with a faulty cap not holding that pressure, it could also be the cause of the overheating
Just something simple you might want to think about too
a bad one will let too much expanding water into the overflow tank and, well, overflow it, therefore causing a loss of coolant
and pressure raises the boiling point of a liquid, and with a faulty cap not holding that pressure, it could also be the cause of the overheating
Just something simple you might want to think about too
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may be as simple as the radiator cap
a bad one will let too much expanding water into the overflow tank and, well, overflow it, therefore causing a loss of coolant
and pressure raises the boiling point of a liquid, and with a faulty cap not holding that pressure, it could also be the cause of the overheating
Just something simple you might want to think about too
a bad one will let too much expanding water into the overflow tank and, well, overflow it, therefore causing a loss of coolant
and pressure raises the boiling point of a liquid, and with a faulty cap not holding that pressure, it could also be the cause of the overheating
Just something simple you might want to think about too
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Is it actually boiling over or do you just mean its being forced into the reservoir? IF its boiling, it doesnt sound like you have enough anti-freeze. You need at least 50/50 mix, where 60/40. anti-freeze/water respectively is optimum.Anti-freeze lowers the freezing point and increases the boiling point. The cap suggestion sounds pretty good too.
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+1 on air gaps in the coolant. I had a Mazda pickup once(yea, I know save the jokes!), after doing a head gasket in it, and refilling the radiator, it would run fine for 5 or 10 minutes, but the first long trip, and the coolant temp started climbing. My clue was that the heater would blow cold, even tough the temp was hot. That large air bubble allowed the coolant to boil over.
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Is it actually boiling over or do you just mean its being forced into the reservoir? IF its boiling, it doesnt sound like you have enough anti-freeze. You need at least 50/50 mix, where 60/40. anti-freeze/water respectively is optimum.Anti-freeze lowers the freezing point and increases the boiling point. The cap suggestion sounds pretty good too.
+1 on air gaps in the coolant. I had a Mazda pickup once(yea, I know save the jokes!), after doing a head gasket in it, and refilling the radiator, it would run fine for 5 or 10 minutes, but the first long trip, and the coolant temp started climbing. My clue was that the heater would blow cold, even tough the temp was hot. That large air bubble allowed the coolant to boil over.
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I had the same issue, but mine was a head gasket leak. Stopped losing coolant after I replaced it. I never had any leaks either, just lost coolant and could smell it once in a while.
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+1 on air gaps in the coolant. I had a Mazda pickup once(yea, I know save the jokes!), after doing a head gasket in it, and refilling the radiator, it would run fine for 5 or 10 minutes, but the first long trip, and the coolant temp started climbing. My clue was that the heater would blow cold, even tough the temp was hot. That large air bubble allowed the coolant to boil over.
Is it actually boiling over or do you just mean its being forced into the reservoir? IF its boiling, it doesnt sound like you have enough anti-freeze. You need at least 50/50 mix, where 60/40. anti-freeze/water respectively is optimum.Anti-freeze lowers the freezing point and increases the boiling point. The cap suggestion sounds pretty good too.
may be as simple as the radiator cap
a bad one will let too much expanding water into the overflow tank and, well, overflow it, therefore causing a loss of coolant
and pressure raises the boiling point of a liquid, and with a faulty cap not holding that pressure, it could also be the cause of the overheating
Just something simple you might want to think about too
a bad one will let too much expanding water into the overflow tank and, well, overflow it, therefore causing a loss of coolant
and pressure raises the boiling point of a liquid, and with a faulty cap not holding that pressure, it could also be the cause of the overheating
Just something simple you might want to think about too
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Well, for one thing- if you start the motor and let it warm up, then with a rag or towel, pop the radiator cap and if steam is coming out, then you've got air in the system, allowing it to boil(or to a lesser degree, it will make some serious steam).
Even if you fill your radiator after having the coolant lines exposed, you may, and propably will still have some good air pockets in the system. So run the thing with your heater blowing, and let the temp get up, but not dangerously high. Then turn it off, and carefully check the radiator level. Top it off if necessary. It might take a few attempts to let all the possible air gaps surface through the radiator.
Also, while doing this, check to see how hot the heater is blowing. If that temp guage says warm or hot, and the heater is blowing cool, the you've got a pocket of air that just happens to be in the heater core.
Even if you fill your radiator after having the coolant lines exposed, you may, and propably will still have some good air pockets in the system. So run the thing with your heater blowing, and let the temp get up, but not dangerously high. Then turn it off, and carefully check the radiator level. Top it off if necessary. It might take a few attempts to let all the possible air gaps surface through the radiator.
Also, while doing this, check to see how hot the heater is blowing. If that temp guage says warm or hot, and the heater is blowing cool, the you've got a pocket of air that just happens to be in the heater core.
Last edited by YFZsandrider; 08-01-2009 at 11:09 PM.
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How are you bleeding it? Keep the cap off, elevate the front end if you are able to ( make the radiator the highest point in the cooling system) and let it run for a while, adding coolant when needed. It takes a while usually so be patient . Maybe try 60/40 mixed coolant.