1993 P.U. 22RE overheating & losing Coolant
08-02-2009, 05:58 AM
#21
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How are you bleeding it? Keep the cap off, elevate the front end if you are able to ( make the radiator the highest point in the cooling system) and let it run for a while, adding coolant when needed. It takes a while usually so be patient 
. Maybe try 60/40 mixed coolant.
. Maybe try 60/40 mixed coolant.I'm not sure whether it would make a difference if you ran the motor with the cap on or off, but it might take pressure in the system to properly circulate the coolant?
Either way, get the thing running, and let it heat up. You propably WILL want to run the radiator cap, as the radiator's water level will start rising and come out the top, when the coolant begins to warm. Once the things starts getting hot, carefully pop the cap and you'll propably have a pretty good release of steam, indicating that you had air in the system. Top it off and repeat a few times until you can be sure.
08-02-2009, 06:28 AM
#22
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oh boy, you guys are trying to get the man to burn himself, lol
personally, I will NEVER remove the cap from a hot radiator any more, not after having one blow up in my face one day...
I guess if you pile on a bunch of rags around the cap and under your hand, you should be safe, but for god's sake BE CAREFUL DOING THAT; 190 degree coolant is NO JOKE!!! it will burn your skin the same way 190 degree steel would
personally, I will NEVER remove the cap from a hot radiator any more, not after having one blow up in my face one day...
I guess if you pile on a bunch of rags around the cap and under your hand, you should be safe, but for god's sake BE CAREFUL DOING THAT; 190 degree coolant is NO JOKE!!! it will burn your skin the same way 190 degree steel would
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 08-02-2009 at 06:29 AM.
08-02-2009, 08:49 AM
#23
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Well, for one thing- if you start the motor and let it warm up, then with a rag or towel, pop the radiator cap and if steam is coming out, then you've got air in the system, allowing it to boil(or to a lesser degree, it will make some serious steam).
Even if you fill your radiator after having the coolant lines exposed, you may, and propably will still have some good air pockets in the system. So run the thing with your heater blowing, and let the temp get up, but not dangerously high. Then turn it off, and carefully check the radiator level. Top it off if necessary. It might take a few attempts to let all the possible air gaps surface through the radiator.
Also, while doing this, check to see how hot the heater is blowing. If that temp guage says warm or hot, and the heater is blowing cool, the you've got a pocket of air that just happens to be in the heater core.
Even if you fill your radiator after having the coolant lines exposed, you may, and propably will still have some good air pockets in the system. So run the thing with your heater blowing, and let the temp get up, but not dangerously high. Then turn it off, and carefully check the radiator level. Top it off if necessary. It might take a few attempts to let all the possible air gaps surface through the radiator.
Also, while doing this, check to see how hot the heater is blowing. If that temp guage says warm or hot, and the heater is blowing cool, the you've got a pocket of air that just happens to be in the heater core.
How are you bleeding it? Keep the cap off, elevate the front end if you are able to ( make the radiator the highest point in the cooling system) and let it run for a while, adding coolant when needed. It takes a while usually so be patient . Maybe try 60/40 mixed coolant.
. Maybe try 60/40 mixed coolant.I'm not sure whether it would make a difference if you ran the motor with the cap on or off, but it might take pressure in the system to properly circulate the coolant?
Either way, get the thing running, and let it heat up. You propably WILL want to run the radiator cap, as the radiator's water level will start rising and come out the top, when the coolant begins to warm. Once the things starts getting hot, carefully pop the cap and you'll propably have a pretty good release of steam, indicating that you had air in the system. Top it off and repeat a few times until you can be sure.
Either way, get the thing running, and let it heat up. You propably WILL want to run the radiator cap, as the radiator's water level will start rising and come out the top, when the coolant begins to warm. Once the things starts getting hot, carefully pop the cap and you'll propably have a pretty good release of steam, indicating that you had air in the system. Top it off and repeat a few times until you can be sure.
oh boy, you guys are trying to get the man to burn himself, lol
personally, I will NEVER remove the cap from a hot radiator any more, not after having one blow up in my face one day...
I guess if you pile on a bunch of rags around the cap and under your hand, you should be safe, but for god's sake BE CAREFUL DOING THAT; 190 degree coolant is NO JOKE!!! it will burn your skin the same way 190 degree steel would
personally, I will NEVER remove the cap from a hot radiator any more, not after having one blow up in my face one day...
I guess if you pile on a bunch of rags around the cap and under your hand, you should be safe, but for god's sake BE CAREFUL DOING THAT; 190 degree coolant is NO JOKE!!! it will burn your skin the same way 190 degree steel would
08-02-2009, 09:00 AM
#24
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I drove the thing about 100 miles yesterday just to test it, it never overheated just if I stoped for a extended period of time (10 to 15mins ) but really would not totaly overheat, temp would slowly rise to about 3/4 but once I start driving even a little bit it would go back to normal easly not like the other day when it got hot it stayed hot. I checked the coolant level when the engine cooled down and it was just a little low. The truck should be able to stay stoped for extended periods of time without the temp rising and thats driving me CRAZY LOL !
08-02-2009, 09:34 PM
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That's my "pre-mix"
oh, and by the way,
when it comes to popping the radiator cap when its hot, don't wait until it's screaming hot, do it when its a little warmed up. stack a couple rags on the cap, and slowly loosen the cap letting the pressure slowly bleed out. Don't do anything stupid, grow a pair, and don't forget to use your brain!
Last edited by YFZsandrider; 08-02-2009 at 09:51 PM.
08-02-2009, 09:44 PM
#26
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Yeah, he can use the containers from the premix coolant he has gotten
I would only run toyota red in my truck though
Do you have a fan shroud???
I would only run toyota red in my truck though
Do you have a fan shroud???
08-17-2009, 11:04 AM
#27
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Well, for one thing- if you start the motor and let it warm up, then with a rag or towel, pop the radiator cap and if steam is coming out, then you've got air in the system, allowing it to boil(or to a lesser degree, it will make some serious steam).
Even if you fill your radiator after having the coolant lines exposed, you may, and propably will still have some good air pockets in the system. So run the thing with your heater blowing, and let the temp get up, but not dangerously high. Then turn it off, and carefully check the radiator level. Top it off if necessary. It might take a few attempts to let all the possible air gaps surface through the radiator.
Also, while doing this, check to see how hot the heater is blowing. If that temp guage says warm or hot, and the heater is blowing cool, the you've got a pocket of air that just happens to be in the heater core.
Even if you fill your radiator after having the coolant lines exposed, you may, and propably will still have some good air pockets in the system. So run the thing with your heater blowing, and let the temp get up, but not dangerously high. Then turn it off, and carefully check the radiator level. Top it off if necessary. It might take a few attempts to let all the possible air gaps surface through the radiator.
Also, while doing this, check to see how hot the heater is blowing. If that temp guage says warm or hot, and the heater is blowing cool, the you've got a pocket of air that just happens to be in the heater core.
How are you bleeding it? Keep the cap off, elevate the front end if you are able to ( make the radiator the highest point in the cooling system) and let it run for a while, adding coolant when needed. It takes a while usually so be patient . Maybe try 60/40 mixed coolant.
. Maybe try 60/40 mixed coolant.I'm not sure whether it would make a difference if you ran the motor with the cap on or off, but it might take pressure in the system to properly circulate the coolant?
Either way, get the thing running, and let it heat up. You propably WILL want to run the radiator cap, as the radiator's water level will start rising and come out the top, when the coolant begins to warm. Once the things starts getting hot, carefully pop the cap and you'll propably have a pretty good release of steam, indicating that you had air in the system. Top it off and repeat a few times until you can be sure.
Either way, get the thing running, and let it heat up. You propably WILL want to run the radiator cap, as the radiator's water level will start rising and come out the top, when the coolant begins to warm. Once the things starts getting hot, carefully pop the cap and you'll propably have a pretty good release of steam, indicating that you had air in the system. Top it off and repeat a few times until you can be sure.
oh boy, you guys are trying to get the man to burn himself, lol
personally, I will NEVER remove the cap from a hot radiator any more, not after having one blow up in my face one day...
I guess if you pile on a bunch of rags around the cap and under your hand, you should be safe, but for god's sake BE CAREFUL DOING THAT; 190 degree coolant is NO JOKE!!! it will burn your skin the same way 190 degree steel would
personally, I will NEVER remove the cap from a hot radiator any more, not after having one blow up in my face one day...
I guess if you pile on a bunch of rags around the cap and under your hand, you should be safe, but for god's sake BE CAREFUL DOING THAT; 190 degree coolant is NO JOKE!!! it will burn your skin the same way 190 degree steel would
Antifreeze isn't chreap, but quitre buying it pre-diluted!! Half of what you're paying 10 bucks for is water!! Just buy antifreeze and get an old clear container that you don't use anymore(mine is an old windshield washer fluid bottle), make a mark at the half-way point, and fill half with water, then top off with antifreeze. You could always put the cap back on after you've added a little of your mix to your radiator.
That's my "pre-mix"
oh, and by the way,
when it comes to popping the radiator cap when its hot, don't wait until it's screaming hot, do it when its a little warmed up. stack a couple rags on the cap, and slowly loosen the cap letting the pressure slowly bleed out. Don't do anything stupid, grow a pair, and don't forget to use your brain!
That's my "pre-mix"
oh, and by the way,
when it comes to popping the radiator cap when its hot, don't wait until it's screaming hot, do it when its a little warmed up. stack a couple rags on the cap, and slowly loosen the cap letting the pressure slowly bleed out. Don't do anything stupid, grow a pair, and don't forget to use your brain!
I got it to stay cool for a couple of days then it will start to loose coolant and overheat Ive tried everything I tnink, so now Im sure that there is something wrong with the head or head gasket. The engine is a rebuilt engine but probaly is a bad rebuilt engine ! does anyone know where or if I can still get a used low miles engine from Japan here in the L.A. area. K Watanabe is the place I use to go but they have been closed for about 4 years now. Pls. HELP Tnx.
08-17-2009, 05:40 PM
#28
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Dont get too hasty, I had my headgasket done for $300 and that stopped my leak. And you should be able to see or smell the coolant somewhere if it's the HG leaking. Mine was leaking into the exhaust system, could see smoke or steam coming out at night with lights shining on it.
02-16-2011, 10:23 AM
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1990 p/u overheating and losing coolant
My 1990 P/U has been losing coolant for the last 8 months and overheating a bit. Last night it started to steam and was out of coolant (which I filled a couple days ago) Just had a new T-stat put in and radiator cap. Coolant is sprayed on the outside of the engine...still bad rad cap? No smell of exhaust in coolant. Rebuilt at 150k (I think).I am by no means a mechanic, but I am trying to figure this out! Help!
02-16-2011, 10:39 AM
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My 1990 P/U has been losing coolant for the last 8 months and overheating a bit. Last night it started to steam and was out of coolant (which I filled a couple days ago) Just had a new T-stat put in and radiator cap. Coolant is sprayed on the outside of the engine...still bad rad cap? No smell of exhaust in coolant. Rebuilt at 150k (I think).I am by no means a mechanic, but I am trying to figure this out! Help!
From your description the problem is either the water pump or leak in the radiator since you are seeing coolant on the engine. Is the coolant isolated on a particular part of the engine?
02-16-2011, 01:42 PM
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my mechanic looked at it and i have a blown head gasket, need an exhaust manifold, water pump is iffy (still not sure if head is cracked). ughhh should I pay to have it repaired or just sell and get a newer p/u? Would anyone by a truck with a blown head gasket? big bummer
02-16-2011, 06:43 PM
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my mechanic looked at it and i have a blown head gasket, need an exhaust manifold, water pump is iffy (still not sure if head is cracked). ughhh should I pay to have it repaired or just sell and get a newer p/u? Would anyone by a truck with a blown head gasket? big bummer
Plus, what is wrong with the exhaust manifold? Nothing really goes wrong with them? Like I said, something isnt right with the mechanics assessment.
02-17-2011, 08:02 AM
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Its not missing and no loss of power, but I am seeing that thick white steam. Havent gotten the details on the exhaust manifold yet. Losing pressure and going to check to see if head is cracked...
02-17-2011, 09:25 AM
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Just talked to my mechanic, said whole job will be about $1100, thats to fix everything (hg, exhaust manifold, water pump, valve job etc). Said a new exhaust manifold (which has a large crack) will cost about $150 new, what are your thoughts on a used one? bad idea? I see them online for about $70...thanks for your help!!!
02-22-2011, 12:40 PM
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reasonable?
So a cylinder is shot and since it has been machined too many times i need a new one. As well as a new exhaust manifold since it has a large crack and new water pump...quoted me around $1,500. Does this sound right? any advice? He wants to replace the engine, but I can't afford it. Truck has 206k miles on it.
01-11-2014, 05:42 PM
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Im working on a 1993 Pick Up with a 22RE engine. I odered the dual stage thermostat today (90916-03070) but not really sure if that will fix the problem. The truck has a new radiator new water pump new belts and hoses and the engine has been recently rebuilt, but for some reason it tends to run hot and it will loose some coolant everytime I check the radiator,but their is no leaks anywhere I look, has anyone had this problem before please HELP !
I just home from town like 5 mins out n I had engine coolant comin out for like 15 secs then stop period. What could it be?
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