1992 4Runner, New TPS, New Alt. Brushes Car won’t start
#1
1992 4Runner, New TPS, New Alt. Brushes Car won’t start
Hey everyone, I’m stuck. I have a 1992 4Runner Manual transmission with the 3VZE in it and for the longest time it would have extreme hesitation intermittently. 3 days ago while driving to work my car decided to bog down to 200 rpm and wouldn’t allow me to go faster than 5 mph. I was able to limp my car home and after reading A ton of forums decided to replace my TPS sensor. I picked up a OEM sensor from Toyota, slapped it on “adjusted” it and tried to start it up. NOTHING. The engine cranked and cranked but never started up. I jumped my car for codes and got no codes at all. Just continuous fast blinking with no pauses in between. I took the part back got a new one and the same thing happened, all crank no start. While I was there I changed the transmission fluid and alternator brushes. I currently have my throttle body off and on my work bench checking the tps with a MultiMeter getting 2200-2300 OHMS at 0.00mm while testing pins VTA and E2. Sorry for the long explanation everyone I usually find an answer on here but I’m 100% stumped.
EDIT: I also went today and replaced my Dis. Cap and Rotor and recently replaced all wires and spark plugs
EDIT: I also went today and replaced my Dis. Cap and Rotor and recently replaced all wires and spark plugs
Last edited by AlwaysBroken4runner; 08-21-2018 at 03:12 PM.
#2
Registered User
did you try putting the old TPS back on?
Did you check for spark?
Your drivability description could be a plugged catalytic converter or low fuel pressure or a lot of things.
Test before you replace! then test again after you replace a part to verify that what you found out of spec is now in spec.
Did you check for spark?
Your drivability description could be a plugged catalytic converter or low fuel pressure or a lot of things.
Test before you replace! then test again after you replace a part to verify that what you found out of spec is now in spec.
#3
did you try putting the old TPS back on?
Did you check for spark?
Your drivability description could be a plugged catalytic converter or low fuel pressure or a lot of things.
Test before you replace! then test again after you replace a part to verify that what you found out of spec is now in spec.
Did you check for spark?
Your drivability description could be a plugged catalytic converter or low fuel pressure or a lot of things.
Test before you replace! then test again after you replace a part to verify that what you found out of spec is now in spec.
Last edited by AlwaysBroken4runner; 08-21-2018 at 08:26 PM.
#4
My apologies yes I already did try to put the old one back and ran into the same thing also. Also when I do crank it I get a strong gas smell. Could it by my coil pack too? It’s suoer strange to me that it would just not start all together out of nowhere like this is it possible I blew an important fuse somewhere other than the fuse boxes ?
#5
#6
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Get a $30 timing light. Not only will you need it to check ignition timing, but it is the easiest way to check for spark (put the inductive pickup on each plug wire and crank. If it flashes, you have spark.)
#7
Ok so I went ahead and checked for spark and I don’t have any spark at all. Did I maybe blow a fuse somewhere other than the two fuse boxes
EDIT: there is spark! I had unplugged the dis connector for the comp. test plugged it back in and I now have spark
EDIT: there is spark! I had unplugged the dis connector for the comp. test plugged it back in and I now have spark
Last edited by AlwaysBroken4runner; 08-21-2018 at 10:01 PM.
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#8
That sounds really useful I’ll probably have to pick one up tomorrow sadly! I tested it really quick by putting the spark plug and wire against bare metal on the car and Taking a video of it. EDIT: there is spark!
Last edited by AlwaysBroken4runner; 08-21-2018 at 10:01 PM.
#9
Go back and check for fuel. Verify the fuel pump is running when it should be. You didn’t mention checking the air filter/VAFM either. Start with the simple things first. Don’t throw parts at it.
#10
Ok I will do that in the morning I turned in for the night and decided to do some more digging what exactly is the VAFM and what am I checking it for? Also just cleaned the air filter it’s a aftermarket K&N the PO had it put on there already and didn’t have the original air intake anymore. Also I do hear the fuel pump kickin on every time I turn the key, I will double check that it’s actually getting fuel and post results back!
#12
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#17
[QUOTE=mholme;52406293]
Gas getting to the throttle body? Did you futz with the vacuum/fuel lines when you did the timing belt?[/QUOTE
No I didn’t mess with any fuel lines or vacuum lines when I did the timing belt. It has good compression good spark and it’s gettinf fuel. The Butterfly is working like it should too checked all fuses underneath the the steering wheel and the main fuse box by the battery.
Gas getting to the throttle body? Did you futz with the vacuum/fuel lines when you did the timing belt?
No I didn’t mess with any fuel lines or vacuum lines when I did the timing belt. It has good compression good spark and it’s gettinf fuel. The Butterfly is working like it should too checked all fuses underneath the the steering wheel and the main fuse box by the battery.
#18
You probably need to go back to ground zero at this point and recheck a few things. A rattling sound that went away usually isn’t a good sign. I would pull your timing covers, check the tensioner(spring tensioner?) and verify timing among other things. Your issues could be anywhere in between the ignition process.
#19
You probably need to go back to ground zero at this point and recheck a few things. A rattling sound that went away usually isn’t a good sign. I would pull your timing covers, check the tensioner(spring tensioner?) and verify timing among other things. Your issues could be anywhere in between the ignition process.