Valve adjustments are one of the most basic, yet most often overlooked things.

And with the 3VZE, it's not just some 'adjust a screw' thing, but one has to check the clearance, mic the shim, calculate a new shim, install it, and repeat... and all the while make sure oil doesn't get between the bucket and the shim...
one of the few things that is actually more cost effective to let the mechanic do... if the mechanic knows how... and any mechanic servicing the head should be able to do that... hint... hint.....

 

hence the "PITA" part lol. when i did my rebuild i just walked into the machine shop and said "go to town on these heads". $600 later i had clean heads, new valves, new shims, new freeze plugs, cams installed and checked for clearence... the works. sometimes its better to pay some one else to get it right the first time.

 

When you're talking about shims for valve adjustments, you're right.
you have to measure the clearance, remove the shim then mic the shim... then figure how much thicker or thinner the shim has to be to get the valve clearance correct, then install the shim and run it a bit... then repeat

 

yeah. i mean you ask anyone around here who knows me and i'm the first person to dick with things i shouldn't dick with, but valve train... no way... you screw that one up and it can be over real fast. my personal favorite is people who don't pre-lube a cam or break it in and then wonder why all the lifters and lobes are broken at 1,000 miles.

 

off topic real quick...

i couldn't agree more, my friend wants to trail rig his old 2door 7.3 diesel, i told him i'll show up with a torch... maybe sell the scrap metal for an '86 toyota.

 

sorry it took a while to reply, but i had the heads done at a shop for 1,200 bucks but now that ive learned more about this motor i probobly should have taken it to the dealer and paid double, the shop i went to was recomended by a friend, and only one person there spoke english barely .so im not real confident they did the job right. but i have a little more info on the prob that might help. which makes me think it might be a sensor prob when im driving if i keep my foot barely on the throttle it runs fine but if i give it just a little more throttle it bogs down and i back off and it runs fine again i can drive all over just fine but i can only give it a little throttle ive changed the fuel filter cleaned the maf ran 2 fuel system cleaners, running on 91 octane,disconected the cat,disconected the tps runs same with or without .and with my foot barely on the pedal i can slowly build up to 4000 rpm get up to 80 but just dont have any throttle to pass, or pull a hill ,run a yellow etc,every time i give it more than just a little throttle it boggs plus theres a popping sound like an exhaust leak, only under load which makes it hard to find and not all the time, more pronounced when i give it more throttle than i should does that still sound like valves

 

uhhh... i think you got raped on the heads, i only paid $600 to have both of mine rebuilt with new valves.