1989 4Runner Heater/Radiator Hose Replacement
#1
1989 4Runner Heater/Radiator Hose Replacement
Hi Guys, been lurking for the past year since I bought my 1989 3.0 4runner but I've come across a question I haven't found a solid answer for. Please direct me if this has already been covered.
I'm looking to replace all my radiator and heater hoses and the only kits I'm seeing are the HPS ones available on amazon for about $200 ( ). The thing is, these are listed as being for the 89-92 V6 4Runner, and from what I can tell, my 89 (2 door, first gen) is different from the 2nd gens. None of these kits include hoses for the rear heater, but I'm planning on removing the rear heater core and doing a bypass at the firewall when I replace hoses anyway.
My question is how different are the hoses on the 1st gens from the 2nd gens? Could one of these kits work for me? I already checked to see what WabFab offered but it's just the big hoses for the radiator. Does anyone have experience using different hose replacements? Can you just buy some heater hose and bend it to the shape you want?
I'd also appreciate if someone can verify for me the two components that would need to be connected for my rear heater core bypass (all the mods I've seen look like they're on 2nd gens)
More about the 4runner: (if it helps)
150k miles, 3.0 V6, manual trans, all stock, and I think it's been in Denver its whole life (rust in all the normal spots). When I bought it, it came with half a jug of GM coolant so I suspect it's not always been fed Toyota Red. Flushing the radiator and heater core it looked pretty bad and I managed to cut into one of the hoses when removing those damn cotter(sp?) pins so I'm dealing with a slow leak and a nice burning smell when I drive. Prior to flushing I was hearing some slushing sounds from the dash when I'd start it up, I'm hoping this is just because it's low on coolant and not that the heater core is shot, because it's starting to make that noise again. Temp gauge works every now and then (I removed the dash and checked to see that the little strand is still intact and it was so I just swabbed it with some rubbing alcohol, reinstalled, and it worked great for another month, now it's back to not working.) Valve covers are leaking oil but I'll tackle that a little later, or maybe when I do the hose swap. Cold Idle is around 1200-1800 RPMs and the things lurches really bad from 1st to 2nd when it's still in this range; shifts smooth once it has settled down to around 700 but that can sometimes take 5-10 minutes. It also has been known to drop down to around 400 after I've been driving for a while but it doesn't always, and holding the gas down a little usually gets it back to normal.
Thanks in advance!
I'm looking to replace all my radiator and heater hoses and the only kits I'm seeing are the HPS ones available on amazon for about $200 ( ). The thing is, these are listed as being for the 89-92 V6 4Runner, and from what I can tell, my 89 (2 door, first gen) is different from the 2nd gens. None of these kits include hoses for the rear heater, but I'm planning on removing the rear heater core and doing a bypass at the firewall when I replace hoses anyway.
My question is how different are the hoses on the 1st gens from the 2nd gens? Could one of these kits work for me? I already checked to see what WabFab offered but it's just the big hoses for the radiator. Does anyone have experience using different hose replacements? Can you just buy some heater hose and bend it to the shape you want?
I'd also appreciate if someone can verify for me the two components that would need to be connected for my rear heater core bypass (all the mods I've seen look like they're on 2nd gens)
More about the 4runner: (if it helps)
150k miles, 3.0 V6, manual trans, all stock, and I think it's been in Denver its whole life (rust in all the normal spots). When I bought it, it came with half a jug of GM coolant so I suspect it's not always been fed Toyota Red. Flushing the radiator and heater core it looked pretty bad and I managed to cut into one of the hoses when removing those damn cotter(sp?) pins so I'm dealing with a slow leak and a nice burning smell when I drive. Prior to flushing I was hearing some slushing sounds from the dash when I'd start it up, I'm hoping this is just because it's low on coolant and not that the heater core is shot, because it's starting to make that noise again. Temp gauge works every now and then (I removed the dash and checked to see that the little strand is still intact and it was so I just swabbed it with some rubbing alcohol, reinstalled, and it worked great for another month, now it's back to not working.) Valve covers are leaking oil but I'll tackle that a little later, or maybe when I do the hose swap. Cold Idle is around 1200-1800 RPMs and the things lurches really bad from 1st to 2nd when it's still in this range; shifts smooth once it has settled down to around 700 but that can sometimes take 5-10 minutes. It also has been known to drop down to around 400 after I've been driving for a while but it doesn't always, and holding the gas down a little usually gets it back to normal.
Thanks in advance!
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
One needs to be real careful replacing molded shaped hoses with just regular heater hose !!
The heater hose tends to kink and prevent flow. Each application is different but can sometimes work increasing the hose length so the bends are not so severe
If the molded hose is no longer to be had one needs to get creative to make things work
I have never bought a kit of any sort
The heater hose tends to kink and prevent flow. Each application is different but can sometimes work increasing the hose length so the bends are not so severe
If the molded hose is no longer to be had one needs to get creative to make things work
I have never bought a kit of any sort
#3
If anyone else comes across this, I have since installed the HPS kit with no problems regarding fit. The HPS kit was only available for models without the rear heater core but since I removed my rear heater core anyway, the kit worked for me. The kit would still work if you wanted to include the rear heater, you'd just have to make a couple cuts of the hoses and need a couple more hose clamps. Attached are some pictures of my install.
As you can see, the two metal pieces forming 3-way connections are the supply and return from the rear heater.
The new hose kit completely eliminates one of those connections (rear hose is now one continuous part) and for the other, I simply cut the third connection off and ground it smooth, slipped some old hose over the pin hole opening and clamped it.
The new hose kit completely eliminates one of those connections (rear hose is now one continuous part) and for the other, I simply cut the third connection off and ground it smooth, slipped some old hose over the pin hole opening and clamped it.
#5
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
That cover is an OEM Toyota part for "Cold Spec" vehicles. The 22R and 22R-E had similar covers. It is nice to have and keeps most of the dust, grime, and moisture away from the distributor.
Unfortunately, this part has been discontinued if anyone wanted to get a new one: https://parts.toyota.com/p/COVER---W...911465010.html
COVER, WATER PROOF (FOR DISTRIBUTOR)
Part Number: 19114-65010
The following users liked this post:
Jimkola (04-21-2021)