Part of the install instructions for the 88-92 3VZ-E tells you to remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and dowel pins to allow the sprockets to turn freely. I have the following questions:

• What is the best way to hold the sprockets to remove the bolts?
• Are there any concerns with the dowel pin removal and reinstall?
• Is there a method/rule of thumb in knowing the belt on the none tensioner side is properly "taut" between the sprockets?

At this point I am wondering why the sprockets have to come off, however I have learned the hardway to not second guess the FSM. Anyway, I'd appreciate any advice, experience, comments.

 

I know of no need to remove the sprockets. You'll want to start with getting the tension between the crank & driver side cam pulley correct. Then, cock the passenger side can sprocket SLIGHTLY to the right (@ half a tooth) before you put the belt on, & that will take up the slack. Lastly, you want all the slack to be taken up by the tensioner between the passenger side cam & crank.

 

I agree with TNrabbit. No need to remove sprocket to do the timing belt. Unless your doing the idler pulley too. If you are then I recommend you use sprocket holder tool. A spanner wrench will do the trick too. But they make a holder specifically for Toyota sprockets. You could even try a chain wrench. But you risk damaging the teeth on the sprocket.

 

You csan also make a sprocket holder out of the old belt & a piece of angle iron, but that's not ideal....

 

Here's a link to a writeup for a crank bolt removal/installing tool.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/

 

I have never removed the cam sprockets while changing the t-belt. It would make access to the water inlet pipe bolts a little easier, but you can get at those with a decent wobble setup without too much trouble.

 

TNRabbit's install instructions worked great. Thanks for all advice/tips/help. I used a 1/4 drive socket (short one) and wobbly-joint to install the #2 idler. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for quick response.