The box that RHDskyline is showing is the key chime that goes off when the key is in the ignition..notice the bigger box on the board that has the two metal flaps coming out?

 

Controls locks too. Should ne repairable. I've repaired mine twice

 

Does it also control the windows? I didn't know about the locks.

 

Subscribed - hope you get it sorted out soon. Mine just turned out to be a faulty switch and I fixed it by adjusting the contacts inside the master switch and re soldering. But that is not what you're dealing with I don't think

Good luck!

 

Both. When you buy that switch from the switch doctor it fries a couple of solder runs because it is wired wrong. Take some speaker wire and solder one or two strands acrosd the melted solder run.

 

Not familiar with this problem but an old (tube) TV repairman told me that 1/2 of TV's are fixed by dropping them on the bench. His theory: most electrical problems are actually mechanical problems. Meaning broken wires, dirty connections, fatigued switches, relay contacts, etc...
The next step is bumping suspicious areas with a hammer handle, not hitting but a good rap will usually show an intermitant/temporary function.

Just a thought, hope it helps.

 

Ok. So I found the relay box up above the clutch pedal. It's hard to see but it's on an angle and appear to be affixed to a metal bracket, but I cannot see how.

How do I get it loose so I can unplug and remove?

Thanks again!

 

The relay should have some tracks on it that just slides into the bracket. See if you can reach in there and feel which way it slides out. It will take a little effort but it should just slide off the bracket.

 

Thanks Bassmastry! Super helpful. I pulled the box and only a few solder joints were burned but the board and tracks were fine. I resoldered, reinstalled, and they now work perfectly!

Thanks so much & Happy New Year!

 

Glad you got everything working! Happy new year!

 

Exactly what happened to mine. I got the seller to refind my $80 since his part burned mine up.

 

Switch Doctor's customer service has been excellent so far (very attentive with bezel swap instructions ). I'm going to call them tomorrow to see what their response is.

 

Update on Switch Doctor for those interested. I spent some time on the phone with Anne (from Switch Doctor) today and she was very apologetic. They've agreed to help out with a partial refund and are taking the issue very seriously. They claim to have not heard of this issue before and are following up with their manufacturer to find out why the wiring was switched up.

Anne was wondering if the wire patterns may have varied by production plant - unlikely but possible, I guess.

I'm glad that I can check this one off as fixed and done. It's nice to see the vendor take ownership of the issue and stand behind what they sell.

 

Thank you!!!! I had the same symptoms on my 1986 SR5 4Runner.... I put the windows down without any issue, then they wouldn't go back up. All the fuses checked out fine. So I removed the "door control unit" and it looked great. If I hadn't read this forum, I would haven't have looked hard enough at the solder joints. After very close inspection, I found a bad solder joint. A little solder and things are working great. FYI - The "door control unit" does also control the locks. However, my locks were working fine. Just had a single bad solder joint for the section that controls the windows.

 

*Delete This Post*

 

4 years since a post here. This is my first on the site. I have master switch problems too. Window buttons was smashed in and a toggle piece inside had a finger broken off so it wasn't sliding the contact back and forth on one side. The master switch panel for 88 is discontinued so switch doctor is helping me figure out a creative way to deal with it. The switch I ordered has the right number of buttons but PT hey are next to each other instead of single file like my stock one. Anyone ever see this issue of not finds my same switch? Can't even find an accurate pic on line.

 

Just about all the Master Switches from Toyota are the same the plugs might not be the same but the switches work the same.

I have a Master switch from a 2000 Tacoma in my 86

 

A problem well-stated is almost solved.
Exactly which window is not working? (Title says FRONT windows not working)
Exactly which switch/switches is/are not working?
Which way is it (are they) not working?
Any single-pole double-throw, momentary-on, center-off, momentary-on rocker switch WILL work.
That is:
At rest, rocker rests in mid position. Center terminal is not connected to anything.
When pressed on one side, center terminal is connected to one side terminal.
When released, switch returns to rest in mid position = no connection.
When pressed on other side center terminal connects to other side.
And so on...

 

I wanted to catch Rad's attention here. My new turbo panels and windows are a mess. I just wanted to get them up and manual-electric will suffice for now. On the two prong connector at the window motor if I apply 12 + and - to the pins this will cause the window unit to run one direction. Reversing polarity to the pins reverses regulator direction. Correct? Panels off and windows off track etc. I just need to check motors and move them to a position to start the repair process.

 

That is correct Most DC motors reversing polarity changes direction