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Alright guys. Several of you have been absolute champs with the technical data, and if I haven't already thanked you... thank you, immensely.
But I have another question. I can't figure out my VSV plumbing. When I took it all apart the first time, I labeled everything. I did not do that this time, and I don't think everything was assembled correctly when I got it anyway.
I've got this diagram under my hood.
And I've got 3 different VSV's. Red, Blue, Black.
I'm 90% sure the red goes to the FPR. That's what it was plumbed to when I got it, and how I have it plumbed now.
The black one, when I got it, both ends were hooked to the intake... so it was effectively doing nothing. Also, this one has a different style connector.
The blue was hooked to the air pump valve under the manifold, but It doesn't look like the diagram, it has an extra port. The mounting hole is too small to use one of the valve cover bolts like the others. When I got the truck it was zip tied to the fire wall.
My EGR was plumbed wrong originally, and I had put it back that way, but with this diagram and conversation in there, I got that sorted out... I think...
So, I'm sorry to be asking a question that likely has an answer somewhere. I've been googling, but getting mixed results, nothing definitive, and contradictory answers. I'm tired, frustrated, and injured. I'm tired of searching.
Does anybody know what color VSV does what? (in relation to that diagram)? Truck is a 1988 22RE manual with factory AC.
Thanks a ton guys. I really can't tell you how appreciative I am.
Red is air suction.
Blue is fuel pressure.
Black is idle up (actuator in the diagram)
PS/edit.. Yeah I'm not sure about that fuel pressure one it should look like the diagram, to the best of my knowledge, and have a filter on the regulator end (like the other)
Red is air suction.
Blue is fuel pressure.
Black is idle up (actuator in the diagram)
PS/edit.. Yeah I'm not sure about that fuel pressure one it should look like the diagram, to the best of my knowledge, and have a filter on the regulator end (like the other)
So...?
None of them look like the fuel pressure one in the diagram.
And I was sure about the red one being fuel pressure because that is the one I know definitively was plumbed that way when I got it. Now, that being said... who knows. But it ran that way...
I wonder if the Blue one is missing a filter? And that's why it has 3 ports?
So...?
None of them look like the fuel pressure one in the diagram.
And I was sure about the red one being fuel pressure because that is the one I know definitively was plumbed that way when I got it. Now, that being said... who knows. But it ran that way...
I wonder if the Blue one is missing a filter? And that's why it has 3 ports?
nah that blue one is a hack, the original one would have the vent perpendicular to the vacuum port not parallel.
Info is based on the plug shape/color and wire color. You can always verify it with continuity checks to the ECU plug and cross reference the ECU pin out diagram.
These have part numbers on the sides also (one under your thumb in the pics).
So... I've seen that picture, and I didn't find it helpful. He has a green plug going to a blue VSV, and (well, I guess if the one end is where a breather is supposed to be, that answers why it looks different). But its also not even the same style plug. This shows a wire-snap, and mine are just a squeeze-and-pull.
For the color blind:
My red VSV has a red plug
My blue VSV has a blue plug
My black VSV has a black, L shaped plug
So... I've seen that picture, and I didn't find it helpful. He has a green plug going to a blue VSV, and (well, I guess if the one end is where a breather is supposed to be, that answers why it looks different). But its also not even the same style plug. This shows a wire-snap, and mine are just a squeeze-and-pull.
For the color blind:
My red VSV has a red plug
My blue VSV has a blue plug
My black VSV has a black, L shaped plug
Black plug, w-g wire to ECU plug W pin 18, AC idle up.
Red plug, L-r wire to ECU plug W pin 17, As.
Blue plug, B-y wire to ECU plug W pin 9, Fuel pressure.
yeah, right below that is the part number but it's not clear enough to make out from here. Think it's a later model egr vsv..
Me and color vision aren't close friends, if you tell me something is red I'll take your word for it
I can try to get a shot of the part number later.
But, if I'm reading the vac diagram, I don't have a VSV for the EGR, do I? Just the bimetal valve thing in the lower intake, up by the temp switch.
Black plug, w-g wire to ECU plug W pin 18, AC idle up.
Red plug, L-r wire to ECU plug W pin 17, As.
Blue plug, B-y wire to ECU plug W pin 9, Fuel pressure.
I don't know how you find this stuff, but you're amazing.
So... this truck had been running some untold amount of time with the VSV's plumbed wrong...
I'm 90% sure I put them back how they came. I labeled every line I pulled loose when i took it all apart. But, there's that 10%.
So, I guess it begs the question: Could having the air pump and fuel pressure regulator switched have caused my no start (which is still not confirmed to be fixed)? I'm trying to reason through how it could, but coming up with nothing.
..
.
Hook up the ac vsv vacuum lines like so, doesn't matter if the electrical connectors and valves look different. This is the proper orientation.
First off I've color coded and traced that stupid spider manifold before, search for them I did all of them I could find and Autozone had a few, I ain't doing it again on a phone. Just seeing that almost had me running away.
Look at your throttle body does it have the four ports tapped. The front most one isn't really a vacuum port in this case, it is using the air filter instead of the older dust cap style. If you have this style throttle body and the above blue fuel pressure vsv the foremost hose goes here.
They way yours is capped doesn't allow the regulator to vent the vacuum when it switches off. How long it holds is unknown, the effect is constant vacuum, or delayed release at best.
The suck/blow test is fool proof, allows for using a valve that is plumbed different internally.
When the vsv is unplugged (electronic), the valve is closed(typically). Vacuum side goes to the one that doesn't pass air, switched side goes to the one with a vent, in the case of no vent it doesn't matter in most cases (maybe if your pulling double vacuum or pushing 25psi)..
Ok, so... lot of notes, and I'm going to try to keep this coherent.
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
First off I've color coded and traced that stupid spider manifold before, search for them I did all of them I could find and Autozone had a few, I ain't doing it again on a phone. Just seeing that almost had me running away.
The suck/blow test is fool proof, allows for using a valve that is plumbed different internally.
When the vsv is unplugged (electronic), the valve is closed(typically). Vacuum side goes to the one that doesn't pass air, switched side goes to the one with a vent, in the case of no vent it doesn't matter in most cases (maybe if your pulling double vacuum or pushing 25psi)..
^This was very helpful. After a couple tries, I did think to bust out the *new* vacuum hose. It tasted better.
Blue is FPU. Red is AS reed valve. From a 1989 Fsm
Did not. Apparently something changed 88-89. Or, maybe it's because my engine is pieced together from others. I have no idea. But I *do not* have the 4th port on the throttle body, so the 3rd port on the Blue VSV could not be plumbed like this.
And after much inspection, I'm pretty sure it originally had a breather on the metal end anyway. The nearest to plug port and the opposite (metal) port were open, and the furthest was closed (when not powered). This is also how the red one was plumbed.
So I treated the blue one (which I had to drill out the mounting hole on, and the plug color blue was off from the VSV color blue, so I'm pretty sure it was a scavenged part) like the red one, and I rigged an axle breather cap on the end of it to deal with the 3rd port to open air, as is seen in my under hood diagram and the colored diagram above.
As for the AC... well, the AC isn't even really hooked up anyway. There's no belt on the compressor, and the idler for it had exploded. And my AC button inside seems to do nothing. But, this:
Originally Posted by RASALIBRE
Hook up the ac vsv vacuum lines like so, doesn't matter if the electrical connectors and valves look different. This is the proper orientation.
Is exactly how it was plumbed from the beginning, once I inspected closer. So I left it like that, and as far as I can tell, it makes literally no difference.
It's hard to claim success just yet. And if I do, I won't know what did it because I changed so many things.
To recap:
New injectors (eBay special reman Denso with shoddy 4 hole caps on them.)
Cleaned and inspected injector wiring crimps
Attached possibly previously missing harness ground
Cleaned plugs for CSI switch
Corrected vacuum plumbing for EGR vacuum
Corrected vacuum plumbing for the Air whatever (air pump, air injection... what's the right term here?)
Corrected vacuum plumbing for the Fuel Pressure Regulator
Replaced about 8' of vacuum line (still has some old ones, I ran out)
Cleaned igniter plug
Cleaned all 4 injector plugs
Broke and repaired Knock sensor plug
Hooked up Air valve connector (possibly previously missed)
Replaced the old cracked O-ring on my idle adjustment screw. (It's currently 3 full turns from bottomed out, just FYI)
*THE RESULTS*
It cranked about 10-12 times and then it finally hit. No sputter, cough, hiccup. Just plain 'ol started once it got there. Getting fuel pressure up I suppose.
Let it idle for a minute or two, tried to rev it. It almost died.
If I ran it up slower, it revved fine. But if I just goosed it, it would almost die, and then finally rev up quickly.
Adjust idle screw out half turn to see if it helped (it didn't). I left it at 3 turns though.
Pull vac line from FPR. Open air= Still bogs. Closed off with thumb= bogs. Applying artificial vacuum with hand and shop vac= still bogs (work with what you got, right?). None of it seemed to make a difference. So reconnected FPR VSV.
Continued to let it idle, closed hood so it would warm up faster.
Let idle for 20+ minutes. Temp got to normal operating temp.
Goosed it again. Immediate throttle response. Repeat X4 or X10 or whatever. Piss off neighbors. (9:30 PM)
(Notice it has a definite tick that sounds like either exhaust leak or valve needing adjusted. Seems to come from #4 using the shop vac tube as a stethoscope)
Notice the Fuel pump really seems to be making a hollow, reverberating whining noise, but hard to tell over Flowmaster knockoff. (maybe was just a resonance in the muffler?)
Check Gauges. Stabilized at operating temp. Shut off. Sit for 10 seconds, hit key. Fires nearly instantly and idles smooth. Turn key off.
Wait 30 seconds. Hit key again. First on second crank. Idles smooth. Shut off.
Wait 45ish seconds. Hit key. Fires on second crank. Idles smooth.
Engine at operating temperature. 48*F outside. Hood closed.
Want to take it for test drive, but would have to drive uphill through my yard and has rained like 25 out of the last 30 days. Fiance would kill me.
So, tentatively, it looks like it's fixed. But I've been fooled before. Also... not sure what the cold bogging is about. Little worried about that. Can't find or hear a vacuum leak. Thought maybe the eBay injectors were dumping too much. I guess I'll see if those results repeat later on.
02-20-2018, 07:33 PM
