Repeat: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/1988-22re-no-hot-start-303191/index4.html#

Same here.

Unfortunately, the EWD is confusing. Best to have actual picture, then check the wire color to each sender and compare with color in schematic.

 

​incomplete answer, AC with tow package.. Without tow its number 4 located over on the right fender.

 

 

The ultimate way to locate and identify temp senders, electric or otherwise, on this particular "1988 22RE" would be for Original Poster to share pictures of all temp senders he can find on this engine.

 

That diagram is from the 88 ewd book.

There might be a missing qualifier in the notation for automatic transmission. Do you have a manual transmission?

My 86 rte 4runner has the dual switch housing. Not sure about the 94..

 

 

One thing I have noticed over the years is that the trucks from 1986-1995 are very similar on a high level, but once you start looking at the details, there are a ton of small (but important) differences between models and years.

 

Ok I'm at wits end as this(my truck) being my daily driver. I wanted to just go over some more ideas and cover what has already been done and checked for. It looks like more people are turning in having similar issues.(keep in mind what year your rig is and the differences on how they can relate to you and the issue you are working) Also I very much so appreciate letting me figure this problem out on your thread.
[QUOTE=XJNKY;52388705]Hey Rick. Welcome to my thread. Feel free to piggy back here. It sounds like we're in the same boat and I don't mind sharing the paddle.

So let's go over what the original problem is and what has been checked.
It seems that we both are having the issue that the truck will start and run great then once at operating temp will run rough/miss then once it has either killed itself or shut off it will not fire again.
What has been checked:

-Wiring harness crimps.
-Injector operation
-Fuel pressue
-Spark
-EFI relay
-Valve gap
-Jump F&b+ fuel pump operation
-Cold start injector & Time switch ground
-Harness ground(you have to admit that's kinda funny)
-Fuel pressure regulator vacuum operation
-EGR operation

So now to this insane mystery that is making me go broke what should be the next thing to look for or possible solutions to this puzzle:
- Why disconnecting then quickly re-connecting the Air flow meter will let it fire but still run rough.
-Air temp or coolant temp throwing the EGR to the F&%#ing moon and back.
-Heat soaked injectors (freaking impossible to check)
-Air bubbles in Fuel line or vapor locking itself
-Distributor going out?
-ignition control module?
-Give up and motor swap a 3RZ
-Drink so much beer you forget you even had an issue in the first place....

Please feel free to tune in and suggest any other ideas...
Im at a loss. Maybe it's time to admit fate and let the depression sink in.

 

I think we've got some wires crossed here with some of the various other's chiming in (Which I'm not complaining about).

My temps sensors are not a point of contention, Rick's are. His is an 86.

I have the one between 2-3, and the one next to the CSi timing switch. And that's all I have, to my knowledge.

 

Misery loves company man. And all the stuff we're documenting here will help someone else out one day. Make sure to post the link to your thread. I feel like they're running in parallel.

I crossed off the stuff I haven't tried above, just for clarification.

Also... I don't know that mine isn't working now, it's still in pieces waiting on me to have two functioning arms. Although I'm pretty sure I'm going to ditch my EGR while I can get to everything. The blockoff kit is cheap.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-help-303272/
If you want to do a big block I would go for a cummins.
Well hopefully once back together it works. I might need to pick up a daily while I hunt this issue down.

 

On the EFi relay is there a way to test if it is stuck closed or open?

 

I don;t think EFI relay is your issue because we've seen that you have fuel pressure.
However, Yes, When you turn ignition sw to ON, relay clicks ON. When you turn IGN off, relay clicks OFF. Find the contact pins 2 & 4:
Ignition OFF with good battery connected well: Pin 2 has 12V Pin4 has none.
Ignition ON with good battery connected well: Relay clicks and both pins will have power.

 

Well... Injury has been keeping my progress slow. Good thing this is not a DD for me.

Anyway, in removing all the wires to check the crimps, I did this to my knock sensor plug:




Fortunately, I was able to get the contact removed with a dental pick and an eyeglasses screwdriver, and I re-crimped it back onto the wire, and soldered it in place (not an easy task under the hood in the dark). I forgot to get a picture soldered, but, final result:

 

Also... I tried getting everything put back together last night, and for the life of me can't figure out where this teal/green connector goes. It's on a short strand, with the knock sensor. Won't reach to the upper plenum very well. Looks like it's supposed to go to something under the intake, but I can't find an empty plug for it. Any ideas?

 

TCCS engine harness connector J(Blue), air valve(under intake).

Top wire is ground (color br), bottom wire to FP (color L). Double check these with a volt meter.

 

*Deleted*
Irrelevant.

 

Ok, sorry for the confusion. Confused post will be deleted.
But to clarify, this is what I'm looking for, right?

 

Yeah that's the one

 

Thank you sir.