1987 4Runner
#1
1987 4Runner
Had plans to yank this motor out last year and today was the day to do it. I ran into a problem, i rounded a blot on the exhuast off on the down pipe. I might cut it off the or see if i can remove the whole cat. if the bolt will work for me :3 Ive got a lot of stuff to install on this 4runner and a new motor coming in November. Will redue brakes and go to rotors on the rear if i can find wut i need to work with the stock wheels. Moar pics coming to.
#2
Well i seem to have a problem of getting the motor split from the transmission. All the bolts have been removed but might be the angle its at. Its like glued on good. The exhaust is completely gutted out and going with an aftermarket one with a new header and someone who had this cut the header in to two pieces. I'm not sure if its stocked like that. I have tons of new parts two add on the vehicle for the time being once i get this thing pull out, transmissions is going to.
#3
Registered User
Enjoying your thread so far!
I like a handy 2x4 between the engine block and firewall for leverage.
Keeps the hands clear.
I'd try lifting the trans a bit with the jack as you pull the engine up with the cherry picker, then encourage the separation with the 2x4.
But first, reconfirm no remaining bolts!
I like a handy 2x4 between the engine block and firewall for leverage.
Keeps the hands clear.
I'd try lifting the trans a bit with the jack as you pull the engine up with the cherry picker, then encourage the separation with the 2x4.
But first, reconfirm no remaining bolts!
#4
Enjoying your thread so far!
I like a handy 2x4 between the engine block and firewall for leverage.
Keeps the hands clear.
I'd try lifting the trans a bit with the jack as you pull the engine up with the cherry picker, then encourage the separation with the 2x4.
But first, reconfirm no remaining bolts!
I like a handy 2x4 between the engine block and firewall for leverage.
Keeps the hands clear.
I'd try lifting the trans a bit with the jack as you pull the engine up with the cherry picker, then encourage the separation with the 2x4.
But first, reconfirm no remaining bolts!
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
What you need is an engine leveler hooked at all four corners it makes removal trivial.. Chain is old school. Hit up the local harbor freight or part store it's cheaper than ordering pizza and will make you laugh at how fast they come apart..
Will go back in like butter also.
Will go back in like butter also.
#6
What you need is an engine leveler hooked at all four corners it makes removal trivial.. Chain is old school. Hit up the local harbor freight or part store it's cheaper than ordering pizza and will make you laugh at how fast they come apart..
Will go back in like butter also.
Will go back in like butter also.
#7
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#8
#9
Registered User
Go to the dollar store and get a couple of these, spray the transmission/t-case down, let soak for no longer than 5 minutes and then thoroughly wash off (preferably with a powerwasher.) It will get 99% of that crud off without a lot of scrubbing.
#10
Registered User
I didn't have the overhead clearance to use an engine leveler when I did mine so I went old school with chains and removing the engine was difficult when it came to breaking the block free from the input shaft on the trans but I jacked up the transmission a few inches then got a good angle and the engine just slid right off. Putting the engine back in we had issues lining up the splines on the input shaft to the clutch disk until I adjusted the chain to give the engine a bit more tilt leaning down in the back then I jacked up the trans a couple of inches again and everything mated smoothly. An engine leveler would have made it a piece of cake but my truck was in a car port and I only had limited clearance for the hoist to rise. that extra 10-12" that a leveler would have added in the mix would have caused my hoist to hit the roof of the car port and since my car port was slightly on a slope and the truck was backed in there wasn't any way for me to temporarily roll the truck out of the port to gain more clearance. It was what it was but just wanted to mention that if you don't have a leveler then setting up the engine so it's tilting backward (flywheel side tilting down about 15 degrees or so) helped when trying to get the input shaft mated with the clutch plate and pilot bearing. I used one of these which has the capability to level the engine how you want it but it requires a few attempts to get it right, meaning you gotta hoist the engine back out, take the load off the chain, then adjust and re-try. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...w41032/4614284
Last edited by outdoorjunky; 09-14-2018 at 08:56 AM.
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Bit of a moot point now but
Still have to get it back in so not to bad of a hijack..
The two point chain connection also makes the engine want to twist the rear end towards the vehicle's right side.
On my engine hoist I've shortened the chain to just the hook sticking out of the end, it's not in the little slot cut hole they provide because you can only thread a single like into it that way.
The two point chain connection also makes the engine want to twist the rear end towards the vehicle's right side.
On my engine hoist I've shortened the chain to just the hook sticking out of the end, it's not in the little slot cut hole they provide because you can only thread a single like into it that way.
#12
Registered User
Still have to get it back in so not to bad of a hijack..
The two point chain connection also makes the engine want to twist the rear end towards the vehicle's right side.
On my engine hoist I've shortened the chain to just the hook sticking out of the end, it's not in the little slot cut hole they provide because you can only thread a single like into it that way.
The two point chain connection also makes the engine want to twist the rear end towards the vehicle's right side.
On my engine hoist I've shortened the chain to just the hook sticking out of the end, it's not in the little slot cut hole they provide because you can only thread a single like into it that way.
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Mio
I'm just noticing your photos are hosted on photo bucket, because one if them turned into that stupid cat!
Please consider using the free storage provided on the yotatech server. This means your thread will still have photos so long as YT exists and never turn into a page full of cats or photo bucket advertising as tends to happen.
Please consider using the free storage provided on the yotatech server. This means your thread will still have photos so long as YT exists and never turn into a page full of cats or photo bucket advertising as tends to happen.
#14
I'm just noticing your photos are hosted on photo bucket, because one if them turned into that stupid cat!
Please consider using the free storage provided on the yotatech server. This means your thread will still have photos so long as YT exists and never turn into a page full of cats or photo bucket advertising as tends to happen.
Please consider using the free storage provided on the yotatech server. This means your thread will still have photos so long as YT exists and never turn into a page full of cats or photo bucket advertising as tends to happen.
#15
#16
Cleaned the engine bay up when it was sunny and washed it then i painted the rust spot where the battery tray was to prevent the spread of cancer. Motor send the heart of already and transmission is getting hot tanked and should be back next week. I sent the fuel injectors off to get cleaned and rebuilt as well in which it needed it.
#17
Oh, i was going to ask if anyone know what i options i have for a rear rotor conversion while being able to retain the stock 15 inch wheels, that would be great. More to come.
#18
Registered User
Engine compartment looks great!
If you don’t mind, how much did the injector cleaning cost?
If you don’t mind, how much did the injector cleaning cost?
#19
#20