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1986 4Runner 22RE rough idle, rich, no power

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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 01:07 PM
  #161  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
I've bent the hard line away from the plenum before.....a couple of different times.....without any problems. Yes, it is hard, but being careful enough you won't break it. It's steel and can be bent with a tube bender, if that's any indication. And, I just pointed the injector into a rag and had my wife hit the key.On mine, the fuel sprayed and the injector did not leak afterward. Shadetree style.

Well, it looks like my testing idea worked......even in the middle of summer! I ran it mid winter, so I had second thoughts about it yesterday. Anyway, good indication the AAV isn't working right. If it's not open enough and yet staying too open....in other words, stuck in the middle, then not enough air at start/idle and too much while driving. So, it can cause rich fuel mix.

CSI won't get voltage if the timing switch doesn't ground.

mV = millivolt = 1000mV = 1V
You need to set your meter the next highest setting above 2V's.

Gotta go.....
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 01:11 PM
  #162  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
I would only think the AAV would have an influence if it was 'stuck open just barely'. What I mean is, it's not open enough to bring up the idle, but it's open just enough to effect things when it's warmed up, due to 'not closing, either'.

Exactly


Also, you said, I'd thought, that the CSI Time switch readings SUCKED, lol. I mention this because, well, if you're CSI is working, GREAT.....but does it STOP working at the right time. Thus, I mentioned checking it when fully warm and in open loop(you could also do a REALLY good listen test to see if the CSI is still firing when fully warmed up motor is verifiable. If it's just continuing to run on and on, ...well, that would create a rich condition, right?

Exactly

I think, Alan, from what I'm experiencing, as well as others, there are MANY things that can go wrong that JUST WONT show an obvious sign. However, it seems like yours is coming along nicely...just a couple quirks.

If I think of anything else, I'll chime in. Any codes?(out of curiosity)
Yep.....we're getting there.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 01:35 PM
  #163  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Hey Mark......and Alan, of course.....look on pg's 20-21 of this link. Describes how the CSI system works. Quick read, when you have time.....

http://autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #164  
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Posting what I got done today. Here are some pics of the vac rail going in. It actually fit very well and it's hard to tell, but it helped clean it up a little.

before

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After

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Old vs. new

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I transferred all hoses and I then numbered the corresponding left over ports with the same number on each end so it would be easier to identify where it went.

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Empty hole.

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After everything was hooked up these 4 ports is all that was left over. One of the ports are behind the EGR. I utilized ports for the EVAP can and the FPR VSV.

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I'll read up more on previous post tonight. Off to see the fireworks.
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 12:22 AM
  #165  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Nice, nice work, Alan. <<<high five!>>>

How were the fireworks for you? I really dig fireworks. Hats off to the Chinese!
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 08:51 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by thook
Nice, nice work, Alan. <<<high five!>>>

How were the fireworks for you? I really dig fireworks. Hats off to the Chinese!
Thanks Man. The fire works were short this year they only lasted about 10 minutes. Normally last 20-30.

I ordered my AAV from Toyota, so I'm waiting on it to show up.
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 08:53 AM
  #167  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
I guess they were on a tighter budget this year. Oh well. Short, but sweet...hopefully.
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 09:00 AM
  #168  
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Awesome, Alan! Great job with the Vac-Rail-Mod!
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Awesome, Alan! Great job with the Vac-Rail-Mod!
Thanks Chef!!

I got the new AAV

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I didn't unwrap it yet because I wanted to take the cover off the old one first. It looks like it is opened the same amount as the new one. Which might not tell the whole story.

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It's hard to put a $200 part on when visabaly there's nothting wrong. LOL The ohm's are 52/old and 51.5/new. Range 39-59 per alldata
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #170  
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I went ahead and installed it because I figured it would help cold idle, but not the cold start itself. I figured right, it turned over maybe 3 seconds but once it started it went to 1100 rpm and held it pretty steady. I need to do the CSI squirt test with the key and see what happens.

I'm gonna let it set for a while. I got to do the front brakes on the 95.

I still have to coment on some previous post, I haven't forgot about y'all.
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 10:19 AM
  #171  
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Hey Alan, that's great! Glad to hear it worked. I figured it was such on the IACV.

As far as the CSI, ....have you had someone switch it on while you're listening with a long screwdriver or piece of vacuum hose to the CSI? It clicks away, just like the rest, ....and at least you'd be able to know that it's shooting fuel in there. Of course, .....I took mine in with the other injectors to RC and, well, it was leaking like a pig. However, that variable might not be your problem, regarding the first start, etc.

Best wishes, Alan,

Mark
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 05:49 AM
  #172  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Progress. Now, that's what we like ta' hear.....
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Hey Alan, that's great! Glad to hear it worked. I figured it was such on the IACV.

As far as the CSI, ....have you had someone switch it on while you're listening with a long screwdriver or piece of vacuum hose to the CSI? It clicks away, just like the rest, ....and at least you'd be able to know that it's shooting fuel in there. Of course, .....I took mine in with the other injectors to RC and, well, it was leaking like a pig. However, that variable might not be your problem, regarding the first start, etc.

Best wishes, Alan,

Mark
Mark, I haven't done anything else to it. I need to, but just haven't taken the time to do anything to it except drive it. Oh, at put new tires on it. I will troubleshoot it somemore soon I hope and do some of the other things on the list as well. Like adjusting the valves and decarbonizing the engine.

Originally Posted by thook
Progress. Now, that's what we like ta' hear.....
Amen brother.

I ran a tank thru it and got 19.2 mpg with 31" tires. I haven't checked my speedo for accuracy. But I think it is like a 10% reduction so it is actually getting 1.9 mpg better if I'm right which equals 21.1 mpg.

I will continue to update when I get time to do a few more things to it.

Thanks for all of y'alls time and effort.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 12:26 AM
  #174  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Yeah, man. Nice to hear back from ya, Alan.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 02:45 AM
  #175  
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wud there be an oil leak somewhere that is possibly getting into the pistons and mixing with the gas and causing the black smoke out the exhaust?
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 04:44 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by JDS1992
wud there be an oil leak somewhere that is possibly getting into the pistons and mixing with the gas and causing the black smoke out the exhaust?

Oil burning would be a blueish gray.
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 09:20 AM
  #177  
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Answer from a motor rebuilder/machinist on "Why does my exhaust have bluish smoke coming from the tail pipe?";

"Well unfortunately you can count on it meaning you'll have to get your wallet ready for a workout. Blue smoke could indicate a few different things I guess. However it is my own experiences that tell me what is happening is your motor oil is leaking past your piston rings and getting into the engine cylinder and mixing with your fuel and ultimately burning along with the gas. That leakage is getting compressed with the gasoline in the combustion chamber and the burned oil makes the blue smoke. Your car probably also doesn't have as much power as it used to and is probably running rather rough too. If it isn't yet it wont be long and it will eventually cause the oil to break down losing its viscosity and not properly lubricating the pistons. Because, what is also happening is some of the gas is leaking past those rings too in the opposite direction and mixing with the oil in your crankcase and thinning it out. When this happens the engine can overheat from excessive friction and it CAN seize."

Black smoke? Burning fuel.

White smoke? Usually HG heading south, sometimes caused by a warped head which was not properly(if at all) decked before replacement.... Or, yeah, the gasket is just DONE-DUH-DONE-DONE, DONNNNNNNE! LOL.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 05:48 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by JDS1992
wud there be an oil leak somewhere that is possibly getting into the pistons and mixing with the gas and causing the black smoke out the exhaust?
Maybe I missed something and forgot what I wrote about smoke. LOL It did smoke when it was running rich, but all that has cleared up with the new ECU. After the IACV change the exhaust doesn't have as bad of a rich smell going down the road with the tailgate window down. It's tolerable.

Originally Posted by thook
Yeah, man. Nice to hear back from ya, Alan.
I'm not going anywhere. Y'all are stuck with me. I might not post much unless I get something else done to it. I've got another guy bringing his old truck for me to restore. I'll be even busier now. LOL

Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Answer from a motor rebuilder/machinist on "Why does my exhaust have bluish smoke coming from the tail pipe?";

"Well unfortunately you can count on it meaning you'll have to get your wallet ready for a workout. Blue smoke could indicate a few different things I guess. However it is my own experiences that tell me what is happening is your motor oil is leaking past your piston rings and getting into the engine cylinder and mixing with your fuel and ultimately burning along with the gas. That leakage is getting compressed with the gasoline in the combustion chamber and the burned oil makes the blue smoke. Your car probably also doesn't have as much power as it used to and is probably running rather rough too. If it isn't yet it wont be long and it will eventually cause the oil to break down losing its viscosity and not properly lubricating the pistons. Because, what is also happening is some of the gas is leaking past those rings too in the opposite direction and mixing with the oil in your crankcase and thinning it out. When this happens the engine can overheat from excessive friction and it CAN seize."

Black smoke? Burning fuel.

White smoke? Usually HG heading south, sometimes caused by a warped head which was not properly(if at all) decked before replacement.... Or, yeah, the gasket is just DONE-DUH-DONE-DONE, DONNNNNNNE! LOL.
Thanks for the info.
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 09:02 PM
  #179  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Yeah, Alan........we understand. We just find someone else to confuse....lol!
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by thook
Yeah, Alan........we understand. We just find someone else to confuse....lol!
I'm still here and confussed. LOL I have to tackle my cold start situation soon. It's very irritating. I've been wanting to pull the CSI outand check it with the key. The ohms on the time switch were way out of whack I'm sure that's not a good sign. If I remember right the 89 had the same ohm reading and is working fine. I understand the 86 and 89 sysytems are different, but I would guess the CSI systems are cose to the same. I'm probably wrong. I just need to pull the CSI and test. I tried to listen to it but couldn't determine which noise was which. I did it by myself. That means I started it then ran out to listen to it. With out going back and reading a lot, how long does the CSI fire. My guess is the thermal switch will kill the signal. I know, go and read one of the PDF's some where in this post . LOL
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