Alan,

I have, just today, taken photos of around 100 pages of an FSM. I thought you had one, but now it's sounding like you're not quite sure of where to go for 'solid answers', .. .So let me get them uploaded tonight and you can probably use many of them to sort out some questions, ok?

88.5 and Up 22re's are DIFFERENT, in a few ways, Alan. The injector resistance and pattern(??) I think is one of them. Not sure on the CSI though. It could be just the same. I can't go through the stuff now and type it out for you... Just too exhausted from today. Ttysoon,

Mark

 

Thanks Mark, I have a 87 FSM which I believe is pretty much the same as the 86.

I found a thermal time switch on ebay and asked the seller a question of what the ohm reading was. He stated he doesn't have a ohm meter and it is like a switch it's either on or off. BEWARE popped up in my mind. Even though he said he has been selling Toyota parts on ebay for many years with about 21K feedbacks and 99.9% rating

 

Wanna sell that FSM? hahaha. Yeah, it's mostly the same, other than the diagnosis terminal and a couple minor things. But yes, I think the voltage and resistance is the same. I couldn't read all of your ECU schematic page, so I went and copied a bunch to my troubleshooting thread, from a manual I borrowed at the local Dealer.

Good luck with the new switch. I have a spare one, but I have to make sure I don't need it, lol. Also, I'll probably hold on to it, as you can see how hard it is to find these parts, more and more as time goes on. Heck, they don't even make the Air/Fuel Idle Screw or o-ring any more! lol. These things are getting phased out to some extent...so I think it's a good idea to get a hold of some of the parts which are more prone to going out. Especially when, if they go out, ...YOU'RE STUCK! lol.

What's going on with yer rig, Alan? Lil refresher post, maybe?

 

Actually, the resistance on the time switch between '86 and '89 may not be the same. I was just reading earlier (was going to make a post, but then our oh so reliable electricity cut off.....lost the post) that the specs change from part number to part number on different years. Autoshop101 didn't specify what years or part numbers they were, but did recommend calling the dealer/supplier with the number for the information. Right....good luck...hahaha!

The ebay dealer was mostly right. IOW, it is a switch and it's either on or off, but too much resistance on the contacts will disturb how well it functions.

There's two wires that go to the CSI and two wires that go to the time switch. STA current goes both parts, so both have STA wires. But, the other wire (STJ) is shared between the CSI and the time switch. This wire is what grounds voltage for the CSI. The contacts in the time switch are closed when the time switch is cold grounding the CSI and causing it to inject fuel. The ground is supplied by the time switch being grounded to the engine. But, once the time switch has clocked out and reached specified temp (68*-104*....depending on model), the contacts inside the time switch open breaking the ground contact for the CSI and it no longer injects fuel. The time switch is heated by two internal coils. The voltage necessary to heat them is from the same circuit (STA) that activates the CSI. Once those coils heat up, again, the contact opens.

This is the difference between an open and a closed circuit. Helpful to understand that when your reading your meter. An open circuit will have no continuity and read "1" (as with mine....meaning infinity) or "OL" (as with Mark's meter). A closed circuit will "0" with no resistance present or read whatever depending how much resistance there is between the contact points. To give you another example, I'm running new 20amp wall wire to my refrigerator. I can put one lead of my meter on one end and the other lead on the other end. My meter will read "0" resistance. This means all 120v's of power will be able to reach the refrigerator and operate it. If I were to damage the wire by crimping it, this will set up resistance and not all the voltage will be able to reach the refrigerator. Cut the wire entirely and my meter will read infinite.

Not all resistance is bad, though. In automotive circuits, for example, a certain specified amount of resistance can be used to control the amount of voltage that is able to travel the circuit from source (battery) to the necessary component. The O2 sensor is a good example here. All it needs is 5volts.

 

I didn't get the switch from Ebay. Too much risk for me.

Nothing much going on right now with my rides, just chasing a driveline vibration in the 95.

Thanks for the help Mark

Again thanks MAtthew for the midnight tech school classes, very appreciated.

 

Yah mon!

 

My step brother brought his noid light kit over and tested the lead to the CSI. Nothing, nada, zippo. I guess it all points to the time switch.

 

Did he test the lead with the key turned to starting position?

Have you tried the bypass I'd mentioned? The ground wire from the time switch connector to the battery?

 

Yes we tried ignition and start. And I'm glad you reminded me of that test. Thanks again.

My mind is not present right now. My wife has not been well for the past 2 weeks. I've been doing more than usual, not that I did a lot before, around the house. Playing Mr. Mom several days and driving her to Dr. appointments. She is having an MRI tomorrow. Keep us in your prayers please.

 

The test in the FSM for the CSI is very specific. Hopefully you make CERTAIN you've ruled it out before getting a 200$ switch, lol. If I missed something that negates everything I've just said? Well, .....then, ....NANEE NANEEE, NEENER NEENER! hahaha.

 

Oh man, I'm so sorry she's dealing with that, Alan! I'll be praying, fervently! As will a few buds! Be sure to rest when you can, brudda, eh?

 

Will do, Alan.

 

I started by checking power at the thermal switch. There is power on both legs in the start position. Knowing that I checked power at the CSI with the connector unhooked. I had power on both legs there as well. Now confussion sets in. To me there should be power on one leg and the other is ground.

Checking one of the legs at the CSI. I had voltage on both terminals.



Here is the 87 FSM wiring diagram





Matthew, thanks for your help today. Depending on what y'all say to this, I need to back up and retest the CSI per the FSM. I rechecked the ohms on the CSI and it was 3.5.

 

I'm just beginning to learn this stuff, ...so I'm sorry to be of not much use. Are you checking this with a test like or on 'read only' with the multi meter?

 

I'm using a multi meter set on 20 VDC and grounded to the chassis.

 

Unless, they're both voltage wires. The one going to the CSI is from the ECU voltage. The one coming from the CSI to the time switch (the green wire) is a continuance, basically, of the first one. It grounds to the engine block via connecting to the time switch when the switch contacts in the time switch are closed making a complete circuit. Once the time switch is heated up, the contacts break removing ground for the CSI voltage and thereby deactivates the CSI.

Will the vehicle start reliably with the green wire grounded to the battery?

 

Finally got around to grounding the green wire. I used a ground wire with a light in the lead just in case. Since I melted the paper clip on the purple wire. I figured the light will add some resistance in case it was a power wire. I don't know if it was a good idea or not. The first try it turned over about 3 seconds and didn't start. I went and checked the connections. Tried again and it fired up as soon as I hit the key. It has never done that unless I just shut it off. I'm gonna try it again in the morning.

 

Still hanging around. I haven't made any progress with the CSI. I did try it the next day and the ground wire trick didn't help. It could be operator error. I've been driving it quit a bit and loving it. I'll post some updates when I get them.

 

Oh, so you didn't accidentally step off the face of the Earth. Not sure how those rumours get started...lol!

 

CSI is working now. Changed thermal time switch and seems to be working good. Thanks to all those that hung in there with me. I want to keep tinkering on it. Still have a weird exhaust smell, it's kind of annoying. Can't leave the back window down while going down the road. I can't pinpoint what it smells like other than strong exhaust. I'll post when ever I get something done. Still getting 18-19 mpg. Not using any oil.