I am going to keep this truck forever.
After I get it running then will come the paint job.
Then the front end suspension rebuild and lift.
and then after I land a really good job, I will do the
5vz swap

But right now, if I do a 5VZ swap,
I need a/an:
engine - $500
rebuild kit - $500
misc. swap fab parts - $1000
exhaust - $500

+ plus time to rebuild the engine and swap and fab parts
is looking to me about $3000+ and 3 months of work

I am also now convinced to do the supra afm swap
so I figure I will be running 2.5" exhaust all the way

btw I am running 4.30 gears and 30X9.5 KM2s

Let me know what you guys think about the afm swap and 2.5" exhaust

or also give me more 5VZ swap facts. . .

 

Your right. All 5vz-fe engines must be rebuilt before being swapped. I forgot about that when I was reading the drunk version of life reference manual.

 

BTW It can be done in a couple of weekends. Not 3 months like you said

 

http://www.toyonlyswaps.com/Page_4.html sells wiring harnesses and crossovers too. They're advertising $3500 for basic swap (not sure of rebuild status, at an estimated $1500 for the engine, I'd hope they're at least doing new pumps and valve adjust -- and they're surely checking compression) and for what essentially amounts to $1000-$1200 in labor, they'll get everything in working order. Heck, I just spent half that to have my Toyota mechanic adjust my valves. That's $ well worth it to me -- it'd take me 5 times as long and much, much more frustration...

And you can probably have them do whatever machining/tune up work you want to ensure is done on your new engine too before you even ship your rig to them. Or they can ship you everything you need to do the swap too...

Check out their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/toyon...s/261991549848
Yota Porn.

 

So $4500, including shipping, gets me a stock used 5VZ ready to drop in and go. That doesn't sound too bad but I don't have the time to save up all that money

At $3000, including shipping, I get a fully rebuilt engine
that will sound better and smoke stock used 5VZs
and still get to call it a 3.Slo

btw, I decided to go Supra AFM, then 2.5" all the way through, still debating that 2.25" outlet after the muffler

Thanks for your input dudes

 

If it cost $3500 plus to swap the motor why not sell the 2nd gen for the $1500-$2500 its worth and put that plus the $3500 to a 3rd gen that is meant to have the 3.4? You can find he 3rd gens all day in california for $5000. Unless it comes down to absolutley loving the body style of the second generation 4runner or already having a ton of mods done to it already a 3.4 swap doesn't seem like its worth it to about 85% of the people.

 

True... but... Its more work than just dropping in a motor thats already plug'n play, and for my purposes... If I'm gonna do more work than it takes to stick with stock, why not do a lil more, and get more out of it?

I'm thinking I may sell the 3.0 I have in the shop to help fund the diesel swap

Op. Good luck with the new motor. Let us know how she pulls once she's all buttoned up.

 

Umm Hate to break it to you but it wont smoke a stock 3.4. It has the same HP and less torque. Learn how to add.
And its high performance so it wont last as long. I could get a makita drill to produce 190 hp but it would only last 8 seconds.

 

hahaha

 

Whether or not it will smoke a stock 5VZ is debatable. I've read that it can so I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to beat that 20 year old 5VZ next to me at the light. Not that I even do things like that.
Also, I'm not sure what adding has anything to do with the difference in torque outputs but don't be a douchebag and tell people things like "learn how to add." It's annoying. I don't just mean over the internet, I mean in life.

 

Dont get all childish on me now. This is a forum, not a blog. Lets keep it on topic hear

Its a molested 1980's 3vz, Its a high performance version and there for not as reliable or long lasting. And it will definitely get worse gas milage because of those things. What pretty much everybody on here and myself were all saying is that you could stick a proven better engine in your truck that gets the same HP stock as your super 3.0 and more torque, and better fuel economy, and will last longer, and can be supercharged, and has factory oil cooler, and is easier to work on, and list goes on, and on, and on.

 

If this comes down to just wanting to keep the 3.0, and not so much doing what makes the most sense. Then just do it, stop trying to convince us. And for the love of yota please take pics and post em on here))))

 

I'm sorry but a 190hp 3vze would be expensive. You'd likely need ported heads, oversize valves, headers, intake, tune, etc.
As for being more powerful than a 3.4? Doubt it. Whoever told you that is smoking crack. The only dyno charts ive seen for these motors are done in excel. Not a true dyno chart. Snake oil. The one guy that did dyno, got the same power as a stock new 3vze 120rwhp... But its your money, if you are fooled by false advertising, go for it.

 

I have to agree.
Ever hear any old timers say "theres no replacement for displacement"?

Well other then turbos, superchargers, and NOS, its true. And were not talking about any of those things now are we? The 3vz design is simply not going to yeild the stock performance of a 5vz with better flowing heads and larger displacement. Not to mention its reliability and simplicity.

 

So a 3.4 bolts right up? Same motor mounts etc? What about wiring and ecu? Can you get A/C to work if I don't have it?

Im in the catagory of loving the 2nd Gen body styling and in too deep cash wise.

 

I have to get in this thread there is so much mis-information about the 3.0 to 3.4 swap.
If you can pull a engine and read wiring diagrams you can do a 3.4 swap. It's super easy. The biggest thing is the wiring, and on my swap was less than 15 wires.
The cost of it depends on your area. I bought an entire 4runner for $1000. Manual trans ECU $130. Clutch kit $180. Crossover pipe and fitting the stock 3.4 exhaust on my truck $140. I know you have to expect a little more if you need to buy something else but don't blow the prices out of the water to justify rebuilding a 3.0. I've seen so many people rebuild their 3.0 just to fail again and then swapped and said they should have swapped in the beginning. My truck has 169k miles on it and the 3.0 that was in it had been rebuilt 4 times. Just saying.
You guys know we have a 3.4 swap section right?

 

Yep, you have to use the 3vz motor mounts. For the clutch, you use a 3.4 flywheel, clutch, pilot bearing and a 3.0 throwout bearing.
Upper rad hose you use stock 3.4. Lower you have to find one at a parts store. Heating hoses will be a little different. I had a BL and S/C so it made it a little different. You need a power steering line to connect to the new pump. Use the A/C from the 3.4 and reconnect it to your old piping. I used my 3.0 alternator and slightly modified the mount. I modified the power wiring harness to move my battery to the passenger side, but re-used most of the 3.4 starter/battery harness. I used the ORS wiring swap kit, it literally makes it painless, plug and play. (if you are scared of wiring). The hardest part is mounting the airbox. Literally.

 

Trading the Japan made 2nd gen/3rd gen Pickup for an American made Tacoma is like trading a Land Cruiser for a Sequoia. Same goes for the 1st/2nd Gen 4Runners/Hilux Surfs and American made 4Runners. Something to be said for quality, durability, reliability, and understated awesomeness, that's more than just appearance/body style. The only thing I have an interest in the newer gens is the engine -- well, side impact braced front doors would be cool too, but I can find those in a 94 or 95 same gen...

But he can sell/part out his 3vze engine and other components not needed for the swap to fund ~$1k of the swap as well. Around here, a good condition 4x4 2nd-3rd gen pickup or 1st/2nd gen 4Runner is ~$4k all day long... Little rust for one, but a lot of that demand is also these truck heading down to Mexico and the rest of Central America.

 

To the OP-

I hate headers, they burn things, leak profusely (although idk if thats a probably with yotas, with my sbc it is), and constantly get in the way. Also, while headers give you more hp, like better, bigger ported heads, they also move your rpm band up slightly, which is fine in say a race car, not so much when you're trying to get up a 45 degree incline, and your engine is having to spool up for to get/stay in the power band. I say from manifold back, go with stock tube diameter and a free-er flowing muffler, with new cats.

Me personally, when i get around to building a toyota v6, regardless of what motor i go with, i want the broadest torqueband i can get, with the motor being built exclusively for torque. Headers dont necessarily fit that equation. Just my .02...

 

Really?