Toreador

Hello,

I will be installing the "190 HP" 3VZE Hi-Pro Engine into my truck.

I will also be putting on the 2.5" Thorley Headers and y-pipe, a 2.5" flowmaster high flow catalytic converter, and a 2.5" borla muffler.

What can I do, with what I have, to retain that low end power?

Can I connect everything with 2.25" tubing? 2" tubing?!
Or can I have a complete 2.5" setup because of the extra HP the engine will have?

Let me know what you think

Thanks dudes

ThatGuy1295

190hp 3vz?

Zpd426

just put a 3.4 in there

ThatGuy1295

Ya stock 3.4 is 190hp. And im sure a stock 3.4 would outlast a pumped up 3.0 if there is such a thing as a 190hp 3vz? Not to mention better fuel economy with the 5vz.

Toreador

I don't have enough time, money, nor resources for a 3.4 swap.

I am going to put the Hi-Pro engine in.

Can some one else chime in on my query?

btw: TOYOTA 3VZE 3.0L V6 REMANUFACTURED HI-PRO / HEAVY DUTY ENGINE 190HP @ 4800 RPM / 210FTLBS @ 4800 RPM THIS ENGINE HAS THE FOLLOWING: NEW HYPEREUTECTIC PISTONS. NEW ALUMINUM PERFORMANCE ROD & MAIN BEARINGS. NEW THRUST BEARINGS. NEW OIL PUMP. NEW FULL GASKET SET. NEW MOLY PISTON RINGS NEW BRASS FREEZE PLUGS NEW TIMING BELT NEW OVERSIZED VALVES, GUIDES & STEM SEALS. HIGH PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFTS 222 DURATION-.400 LIFT. MACHINE WORK Bore and hone block with torque Plate with moly finish. Deck cylinder block parallel to main line with CBN. Re-size connecting rods. Hang and align new pistons onto connecting rods. Line hone main line. Grind & polish crankshaft. Grind & polish camshafts. Remanufacture Cylinder Heads. Adjust valves. Assemble. Fully balanced assembly 7 year, 70000 mile warranty

crazypaint

I would do 2 inch been told by engine builders u will lose power on a 6 if u go bigger than that. Just my opinion

RSR

2.25 through the cat. 2.5 cat back with 3" tip should do you.

RSR

And let us know how the HiPro works out for you.

Btw: take a look at toyonlyswaps.com . With your r150 tranny, they'll install a 3.4 for ~$3500. With your $2k hi pro engine and $1k+ exhaust, you'd likely come out ahead. Their price point is sick. And I've been follwoing them on facebook, and their projects look solid.

I have no interest in that company other than I'm leaning towards having them do a 3.4 swap for me rather than the diesel swap I'd really prefer just b/c of the killer price point (and the supercharged 3.4 is about the max powered engine that can easily fit in our trucks).

ThatGuy1295

We respect your sticking with the 3.0. It just has to be said.
The 5vz has 190hp and 220 torque at 3600rpms instead of 4800rpms
Thats a big difference in low end. And like mentioned by RSR I also feel the 3.4 swap can be done for about the same. Not to mention supercharger ability. Ok im all done. Continue with the super 3.0 talk

Toreador

A swap would take too long! There is a bunch of fabricating and things getting taken to local shops and picked up from the shops, and back and forth, and this didn't work or that doesn't work. . . cutting, welding, mockup after mockup. . .

I thank you guys for pointing me in a better direction, but I mean it when I tell you I want something drop in, plug and play, factory service manual specifications, torque to the tee blah blah. . .

This 3VZ that I get will be extremely reliable. . .
easily push over 300,000


So Headers Y-Pipe to Cat, 2.25" pipe
Cat to Muffler, 2.5"
Muffler to Out, 2.5" with 3" bolt on attachment tip?

Greg_Canada

The only part that needs to be fabricated for a 3.4 swap is the crossover exhaust pipe, which offroadsolutions sells, so there really is nothing you need to fabricate.

250000_yota

Greg, I think the other point that he's trying to make is that wiring it may take longer than he wants. He has a valid point. If he's looking for quick and painless, then the same block is a decent choice. Wether it holds up is a mute point.

To answer your original question, I would do everything from the headers back in 2.25. On my 3.0, I had Downey headers, a hi flow cat and a Doug thorley cat back. It was 2.5 inch all the way, and I feel it was a little too much. Low Ned definitely suffered, nd it felt like it really didn't come alive until about 2500-3000. S when I say 2.25, I'd do everything in 2.25. Cat, muffler and piping. That'll flow good, but still get you enough back pressure to make it useable.

Btw, I don't believe a rebuilt 3.0 with what they are describing will make it 300k. A few factory 3.0s made it to 300, but most suffered one of the common failures of this engine such as head gaskets, burnt valves, siezed wrist pins etc etc... Expecting a modified 3.0 to make it that far is kind of far fetched in my eyes. Nothing against you, I'm just speaking from my experience.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I think it makes so little difference our our weak little v6 it's not worth losing any sleep over. Yeah, small primary headers and slightly larger pipes are the "norm" for streetable machine. Supposed to provide a lower torque curve, but we are talking about a 190hp v6 here. Use what you want. I say the less restriction, the better. Don't buy into larger will "kill" low end, etc etc on a 190hp v6. I say show me some dynos to prove it

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I'd run a 2.5" from the header to the inlet of the muffler. This includes cat. Then I'd either run 2" duals are 2.25" single from outlet back.

You will notice better performance from this setup.

You always want you tailpipes 1 size smaller then the main pipe.

Toreador

I still believe the headers completely remove the head gasket failure issue of the 3VZ.
Besides that, why else does the 5VZ best the 3VZ in the reliability department?

Anyways, Toyota~Boy's tone of confidence in his post is making me trust him.
2.5" all the way through till 2.25" muffler outlet is what I will probably do.
Does anyone else have knowledge/experience to share?

RSR

Headers remove heat from the engine, particularly in the #6 cylinder which gets its own exhaust and all the exhaust from the passenger side passing by. However, with headers you often trade head gasket problems for burnt fuel lines, floor boards, and starters; increased likelihood of crushed exhaust pipes with the crossover, and generally are crazy expensive. I'm convinced that keeping factory headers and doing a crossover delete is the way to go (with perhaps using an extra passenger header on the driver side), but haven't done it yet.

End of the day, putting money into a 3vze is putting lipstick on a pig. It was Toyota's first V6 in a truck and categorically was not built to maximize power. Sure it can be improved, but for what you're spending on your exhaust you can spend on a supercharger for a 3.4 and have nearly double the power of your new 3vze.

It sounds like you've made up your mind, and I'm not trying to say you're making a bad decision as your priorities and perspective are different than mine, which is perfectly okay. And I disagree.

But for those of us who haven't made up our minds, please do document your build and include honest pricing and evaluation so that we can all make the most educated decisions on our own moving forward.

RSR

On exhaust, 2.5 if you're looking for better hi end performance, and 2.25 if you're looking for better low end performance. I'd imagine the 2.5 and 2.25 out performs much closer to the 2.5 exhaust than the 2.25, but YMMV. And if you're crush bending rather than mandrel bending you need to get out your calculator and compare the restrictions of the crushes to the assumed ideals based upon the after market performance exhaust shops engineering.

The primary reason I'm aware of smaller piping near he muffler is that it moves the cooler exhaust out faster, it doesn't need as much room as the exhaust did at the front end. So small pipes at the back end has negligible effects on performance, and smaller pipes=less metal=cheaper to produce the car... It's possible that there's marginal performance gains from keeping exhaust speed consistent throughout the exhaust track from end to end, but it can't be seat of your pants significant.

Lastly FWIW, the 2.25 is the "performance" mandrel bent exhaust diameter that everyone independently engineered and sells for the 22re. A 2.4L 22re is 80% of the displacement of the 3.0L 3vze. A 2.25" diameter (3.97608 "2) exhaust has 81% of the area of a 2.5" (4.90874 "2) diameter exhaust. (Yes, most prefab 3vze exhausts are also 2.25, but that's b/c the 22re is the main market segment they're selling to and didn't want to build a bunch of separate exhausts for our ugly duckling engine -- also, those exhaust kits are based on our stock AFM, not the swaps with much better flow that many of us are doing, and replacing everything else without the AFM...).

Stock AFM has a 2.585" internal diameter vs 2.9" inside diameter supra AFM. The flapper on the 3vze has an area of 3.69" vs the supra with 4.79", the 3vze with 77% of the area of the supra. Stock exhaust on the 3vze is 2 1/8" (2.125") diameter, (area: 3.54656 "2), for an AFM to exhaust ratio of 1.04. Stock AFM to performance 2.25" mandrel exhaust ratio is 0.93. Etc. The math needs done before pulling the trigger.

AFM dimension info: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...54/#post409801

lminert

I'm in the middle of a full 3VZE rebuild now (90 4Runner). I'm taking advantage of what I've learned on Yotatech, especially about #6 cylinder. I first ran into #6 when my wife brought it home and complained about low power. A compression test showed 1,2,3 and 5 at 130 psi, with 4 at 90 and 6 at 30. When the driver side head came off, I found two pieces of ring embedded in the piston. There may be your typical burnt valve at the # 6 exhaust, but I also had a serious ring problem; not jsut the rings, but the piston structure between the two rings had come apart. I found several arc-inches of steel and aluminum in the oil pan. Piston 4 showed preliminary signs of breakdown, with cracks in one ring and in the piston between the rings. Pretty serious heat damage. Block, heads, pistons and flywheel are in the engine shop now. Cylinders will need .5 mm (0.0197") diameter expansion, with corresponding pistons/rings. Doug Thorley headers on the way. I plan to go out to the tailpipe in 2.5", as I value the high end more (towing vs. rock crawling).

As far as the 3.0 versus 3.4 debate, I acknowlege that my 3VZE is never going to perform like newer generation engines, but I am more comfortable staying close to Toyota's design for the model year. I am investing in the 3VZE rebuild because the driveline, body and interior are in very good shape, and I intend to put at least 150K miles on this SUV. As opposed to the moron who sold it to my wife, I'll actually change the oil and lube the zerks on a regular basis. LOL

Team420

I am going to be forced into either rebuilding/swapping, or used 3.0 for my runner in the near future....

My thoughts on the matter....

Why bother swapping a weak v6, for a slightly more powerful v6? I'm either going to swap in a used 3vze(have one on the engine stand now with only 130k) or, I'm going all out, and swapping in a diesel, likely one out of a mitsu, or isuzu box truck.
If I'm gonna spend time trying to figure out wiring, exhaust routing, etc etc... I'm going with more power, and better fuel economy = the diesel....
Otherwise... might as well just stick with what has worked for the last 20 years and 320k miles

ThatGuy1295

You have some good points there. But I really wish people wouldnt post about how its such a deal to do a 3.4 swap, becuase its really not. If you have enough mechanical ability to swap 3.0's, you can swap a 3.4 in. And its not just a slight improvement, its pretty substantial. That being said theres nothing wrong with the 3.0. By all means keep it. I just dont wanna hear " its so much crazy work and fabrication to swap a 3.4" as a reseon against the swap. Its not that big of a deal. Really!!

That being said, there are lots of other engine swaps that ive considered myself. Diesel's , V8's, the 4.7 tundra motor would be cool imo, lots of stuff. But a swap is a swap, and it doesnt get any easer then the 3.4. Best bang for your efforts. And it can be supercharged

The fact that a company can make any money off a slightly tweaked 3.0 is beyond me.