My 22R is going through about a quart, quart and a half every 3000 miles. It's got about 125,000 miles on it and runs like a top. Just wondering if I should change over to 10W40 since it is a thicker oil right? thanks..

 

It's only thicker when hot. When the engine heats up the clearences tighten up, making slightly thicker only a little less likely to creep into the combustion chamber. The only reason I run 10W40 is because I do a lot of extended high rpm messin' around, and it has more protective ability at higher temps. 10W30 should cause less resistance, thusly improving performance. I leave it up to you to decide. I don't believe it will hurt anything to try, aside from your mpg possibly.

 

Is it leaking, or do you think that it's burning off?

 

You CANNOT judge a multi weight oil like that. I assume you are not using synthetic oil? That would be the FIRST thing to change from syn to dino. Also some syn's listed as such are CLASSIII oils and are NOT true synthetics, they qualify as dino.

Also try switching brands or using a 15wX or 20wX. These oils will be ones that cause lower MPG's and possible increase in temps. A 5w50 will run cooler and have better MPG's than a 15w50. But a 15w50 my use less, depends on oil and why your engine is using oil.

You will see mostly ZERO change in ANYTHING when you switch from the same brand 10w30 to 10w40. Infact some oil brands in the thicker 15w50 are used more than a 0w40.

Plus your engine isn't using much oil. One quart every 1k is considered acceptable. Pull the head and replace the valve seals and you'll notice a HUGE decrease in oil usage.

 

YOu have absolutely no leaks, at all, period? You know this for a fact?

 

Wait a minute. There is a LONG thread about oil, with TONS of info from all sorts of reputable sources. One of the many conclusions reached in that thread was that a 5W-x0 oil and a 15W-x0 oil is the SAME OIL at operating temp. So, if that's true, how could a 5W-x0 oil run cooler and have better MPGs?

I think you're mistaken.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...=112220&page=3

 

fix the external leak, fix the internal leak, or just get used to topping it off

changing your oil weight is NOT the way to go about this

 

Exactly. The first number ONLY has to do with the viscosity (thickness) of oil when it's not at operating temp.

Rob

 

20W 50...that is what you need, depending on where you live, if it is south of the Mason Dixen line, then i highly recommend that you get 20W 50. i have been using Esso 20W 50 for over a month now and i have gotten better fuel economy and a better sounding engine. Not to say the least i have also noticed that i get more of my horsepower than when i did with lower grade stuff such as 10W 30 or 40 or what ever you use. But it is all a personal opinion from experiance.

 

5w-40 Synthetic

 

Well, check out this post from a guy in the other current oil thread:

 

IF it's a seal issue, synthetics (good ones) can recondition seals...to an extent. IF they're far gone, best replace them. But, there is a nifty product on the market called Auto-Rx I've used with good results. Do a google search on it. It's a bit pricey, but if it does nothing for the seals (if that's a problem) it will atleast clean your motor up real well. In that respect, whatever new oil you go with will last longer as a result. And so will your motor.

Mark,
I've been trying to figure out this out. Please help me out here.
If the manufacturer recommendation is 20w-50 (like for earlier 22RE's), I don't see what the problem is. Obviously, it's not called for in every motor, so one should could with something else....like what's recommended. Right? This is, of course, depending on enviromental conditions like cold climates and such.

 

Nevermind. I hadn't seen there were new posts over there. I answered my own question.

 

Whatever, hypothetical disscusions still have no place with acutal trials. I can say first hand, that a 5w50 runs cooler and improved MPGS by nearly 2 over a 15w50. Also NO oil has the same characterics as another UNTIL they reach MAXIMUM specified temperatures.

 

thanks for all the replies, there is no oil leaks at all so I'm pretty sure it's the valve seals. I'm on a super tight budget so I have no money to service the head at this time. I guess I'll just keep topping it off every so often. thanks again..

 

Oil is cheap compared to engine rework in most cases.

Personally I'd try Shell Rotella 15w-40, and after your first 1/2 quart loss, add 1/2 quart Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer.

If that works, at the next oil change, I'd switch to Rotella 5w-40 synthetic for better cold start lubrication when most wear occurs.

 

Now, i realize that it is not good stuff for the pump, but before i left Canada, i paid out over 4k to get my engine totally repaired of all errors that might happen, and that included changing the pump to a stronger, more capable pump. And i have ask Toyota what the risks of running a thinker oil are and they say just that it doesnt cover the area that thinner oil does...BUT when you live in hotter environments, your engine CAN NOT run forever on thinner oil, it can in all actual fact wreck your engine. Im not sure about synthetic oil, but i have talk to the locals down here and they run there little gas Toyota's with 20W 50 and have never had to replace anything. And the Toyota's down here have an average mileage of 300, 000k +. My friend down here has a 1980 Toyota Pick-Up 2WD regular cab etc. and all he has run for the last 10 years is 20W 50, i did my research before switching. Thanks for your concern though Mark in MD

 

The bottom line is, thicker oil resists burn-off & breakdown at high temps. However, it will not protect your upper engine (cams, etc.) as well as a thinner oil. It's a trade-off and you should take into account the ambient temperature for the time you're running the oil, as well as what type of conditions (run hard w/heavy loads, etc.) you are using the vehicle for. 20w-50 has been responsible for a number of cam issues because it has so far to flow. Unless your are beating the h@!! out of your truck, most folks would be ok with 10w-30 or 10w-40. Anything other than that should make you consider whether it's worth the risk to your main bearings for a thin oil or risk to your upper end for a thick oil.

 

Since this thread is so related to the other, I suppose I will add this here....and since you brought this point up, TN.

Speaking of oil reaching critical components, and bringing filtration into the picture, I installed a remote oil bypass filter years ago. There are several on the market, but the one I went with (mainly for economical considerations) is designed so that return line may be run to the valve cover at the oil filler cap. The input comes directly from the sending unit. With this set up, the oil is pumped, cleaned, and immediately dumped over the valve train, cams, and all upper end components. It's really a good deal when you think about it. For the other alternative is to run the return to the drain pan. But, that doesn't make as much sense to me, especially considering the places these 4x4's go. How many of us of had branches and whatnot collide with there bottom ends? Plus, you lose that added benefit of clean oil circulation to the top. Anyhow, fortunately, Toyota makes good, strong factory pumps. Unfortunately, with using the dino oils there are those limitations that are inherent with it. They don't flow as well as sythetics especially after they've begun to break down from shearing. With that in mind, this is where sludge and oil deposition begins to happen and that has been a problem from everything I read no matter the weight used. Which is also why after a period an engine flush is necessary. With synthetics, good filtration, and regular changes this and more is all avoided. I would also like to reiterate the fact that synthetics leave that lovely film on components. Case in point: I changed my tranny gear oil from M1 GL-5 to RL MT-90 a few weeks ago. I am surprised at how much difference it has made in the shifting. After enough time had ellapsed from driving and circulating the oil and therefore sticking all over the gears and synchros, the real difference was noted. I can shift around like a race car driver!...within reason, of course. This whole discussion has renewed my desire to become more educated about lubrication, which is to me an important thing. So, I'm seriously considering even switching motor oils around (with respect to weight and base stock) according to the seasons. I just still have more reading to do before I make any final conclusions and decisions.

Good thread..

 

Fix the problem and run 10W-30. Valve seals?

No offense but that is what is known as the placebo effect. It just soesn't make sense. Better gas milage and more hp with thicker oil? Highly unlikely.